garyshipwright

Hi Chris. I know you posted that you will be doing her in 1/64  but what about 1/48? Would make a heck of a nice model that's for sure. Gary

Hi Picard. One way to look at it, wood is very forgiving.  If you don't get it right the first time try try again. It does give you experience so keep going and before you know it your be able to plank a hull in no time at all. As far as planking a hull am still working at it to get it just right. Gary

Hi ☺️
 
 

Hi Picard. One way to look at it, wood is very forgiving.  If you don't get it right the first time try try again. It does give you experience so keep going and before you know it your be able to plank a hull in no time at all. As far as planking a hull am still working at it to get it just right. Gary

Hi Mark. Here is a couple of photo's of the cheeks and they items made for them. Its been awhile since I made them but believe I used a piece of curved wood to get the right curve on them using a heat gun after putting water on them. Hope it help's Gary 

Hi Mark. Here is a couple of photo's of the cheeks and they items made for them. Its been awhile since I made them but believe I used a piece of curved wood to get the right curve on them using a heat gun after putting water on them. Hope it help's Gary 

Hi Picard. One way to look at it, wood is very forgiving.  If you don't get it right the first time try try again. It does give you experience so keep going and before you know it your be able to plank a hull in no time at all. As far as planking a hull am still working at it to get it just right. Gary

Hi Picard. One way to look at it, wood is very forgiving.  If you don't get it right the first time try try again. It does give you experience so keep going and before you know it your be able to plank a hull in no time at all. As far as planking a hull am still working at it to get it just right. Gary

Hi Mark. Here is a couple of photo's of the cheeks and they items made for them. Its been awhile since I made them but believe I used a piece of curved wood to get the right curve on them using a heat gun after putting water on them. Hope it help's Gary 

Hi Mark. Here is a couple of photo's of the cheeks and they items made for them. Its been awhile since I made them but believe I used a piece of curved wood to get the right curve on them using a heat gun after putting water on them. Hope it help's Gary 

Thanks Everybody
 
Here is what it looks like from 12” away now she is back on the build board.
 

Good Day, I am calling this build finished. Thanks to everyone’s comments and likes! Special thanks to David of course for envisioning this project and for his help in working through it. Here are my final photos:










Ian

Just outstanding matiz. Makes me want to go back and redo my pumps. What a joy to watch your build and Merry Christmas good sir. Gary 

Gun side tackles and their rope coils have been done and the gun carriage traversing tackles are started.

I have started making guns:

Build Day 45-46: 7 hrs in two days / Total 105 hours
100 hours completed today! I spent altogether 8 hours for deadeye installation. Here I  share my installation sequence, after the parts have been painted, removed from the sheet and trimmed. This is a 5mm deadeye structure. The 3mm deadeye structure has one less number of parts.
 
Photo: 479: Open the deadeye strops with a tweezer (or as I used above, a wire bender)
Left: unopened
Right: opened

 
Photo 480: Insert the deadeye and squeeze back the strop. A single hole in the deadeyes should be on the bottom, like in the photo. 

 
Photo 481: A tiny drop of thin CA glue to further secure the deadeye.

 
Photo 482: Insert the deadeye int its slot on the channel. Other components shall be fitted from underneath, as they won't fit through the slot.

 
Photos 483-484: Take these two chainplate components and combine them as in the photos. Note the open side of the elliptic part should face inwards (i.e. towards the hull) when installed and the longer part actually has an engraved front face, though barely noticable, which should face outside when installed.


 
Photo 485: Open the upper part of the elliptic part a little, in order to insert it through the loop under the deadeye.

Photo 486: Deadeye structure in place, hanging freely at the moment.

 
Photo 487: You'll need two nails, one shortened and one full size. The shorter one is to be used in the upper part, so that it won't get through the other side of the deck.   

 
Photo 488: Position the hole and drill a 0.5mm hole to help insert the nail easily. This is helpful especially for trimmed nails, as their tips are not that sharp after cutting off. I tried to insert the nail without drilling first a few times but they bent all the time.

Photo 489: Now insert the short nail through the last piece...

 
Photo 490: ... and insert it to the hole you drilled.

 
Photo 491: Finally insert the second nail to the lower opening of the bottom lower part.

 
Photo 492: This is how it looks. 
Now repeat the above steps for 50+ times  

Hi Matiz and thank you for the compliment. Gary

Hi guy's. Here's a update on the build but this time it is more about her building board. I add a way of being able to tilt her from side to side  which helps keep the back in tack and a lot easier getting to thing's.  I worked on a couple of hanging knee's and being tilted made it a lot better.  I can't take the Credit for it which goes to  Alan/AON and the tech info on it. Hope you enjoy the pictures and any question will be more then happy to answer them

Just outstanding matiz. Makes me want to go back and redo my pumps. What a joy to watch your build and Merry Christmas good sir. Gary 

Volume III should be out late this year! We are laying out the book now.

Good Morning !
 
The construction site is now completed.  It is composed of a Melamine board 48 by 16 by 3/4 thick I liquid nailed to 1/1/4 Red Oak Stair Balusters.  It is dead level.  The rest of the structure is 3/4 MDF and 1/4 MDF for the upper platform with the usual 1/4 threaded rods.  I abandoned both the 3/4 inch birch plywood board screwed into the same oak balusters - it was not as level - and a 3/4 thick MDF board glued to 3/4 square battens.  I will use the 3/4 MDF as a moveable platform for the plans.  
 
My Taig milled arrived this week as well.  I chose the Taig as I was able to purchase a refurbished unit with the same warranty as new for a discount to list.  It comes stock to run at 10000rpm to cut wood with the upgraded motor.  I love its weight as 80lbs and the x travels a full 12 inches.  Its an amazing tool built with the same craftsmanship as my Byrnes machines.   Most of the Sherline accessories will fit it.  While not necessary to build this ship (I do love collecting tools though!) - it will certainly make the complicated and large structures of the bow and stern at this scale hopefully easier to realize.  Its first task will be to cut the rabbets into the keel parts.    



 

Hi, and thanks to all ☺️

Other Congres Rochefort International

Good morning and thank you all for the likes
More photos.