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flying_dutchman2

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Everything posted by flying_dutchman2

  1. flying_dutchman2
    Before anyone tries the hoop thing I have to go back to the drawing board as some of the strips of paper glued onto the rod and then heated do not come off. Marcus
  2. flying_dutchman2
    I am done painting-sanding-spackling. I have also removed the tape from the windows and the walnut veneer. Here I am prepping the boat for a rust red bottom and have marked the rudder with tape. I will first paint the rudder several coats of the same color as the rest of the boat and then the bottom of the rudder will be rust red. I taped the rudder to the benches to keep it straight and then to be able to draw a straight paint line. I taped a little level to a dowel which will go temporarily where the mast goes. Having the stand level on the table and part of the stand where the keel goes into, I can move the boat up and down and keep an eye on the bubble. This is where I need to keep the boat level to draw an accurate paint line. Marcus
  3. flying_dutchman2
    Mike Y, As Yamsterman said; all wood oxidizes over time. Some slowly some fast. Example: If you had a block of Pink Ivory - 5cm x 20cm x 20cm. After about 10 years the outside layers have lost its pink lustre and the wood is light brown almost sand in color. If you sand off 2mm on all 6 sides the block will be light pink again. The more you sand off the darker the pink color. I have done this with walnut but the model I built with this wood has been in a display case for about 4 years and the light in the living room has somewhat faded the wood. If the wood has been properly dried the pink will last. But generally ALL wood fades. UV rays is the enemy of this. Most of this information comes from a book I have on Arboriculture. Marcus
  4. flying_dutchman2
    WOW........AMAZING........ Such detail........ Excellent craftsmanship. I like it. Marc
  5. flying_dutchman2
    I did the research on Pink Ivory and our club will get a mini-presentation on this. Pink ivory (Berchemia zeyheri), also called purple ivory, red ivory, umnini or umgoloty, is an African hardwood used to make a variety of products (for example: billiard cues and knife handles).[1] The pink ivory tree grows predominantly in Zimbabwe, Mozambique and South Africa. The tree is protected and sustainably maintained in South Africa, only felled by very limited permit.[2][3] The wood is extremely hard, with a density of 990 g/dm3. The specific name honors the German botanist and plant collector Carl (Karl) Ludwig Philipp Zeyher, 1799-1858 in South Africa. For the modelers in the US here are some places you can purchase this wood from. http://www.wood-database.com/pink-ivory/ http://www.exoticwood.biz/pinkivory.htm http://www.bellforestproducts.com/pink-ivory/MI http://www.righteouswoods.com/MA http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/hardwoods/exotic_hardwoods/exotic_wood/pink_ivory_lumber/pink_ivory_wood.htmlPA This is the general color. It has many variations Marcus
  6. flying_dutchman2
    Here I am creating mast hoops. I use this excellent book a lot for ideas. The metal pipe is a roller which I scavenged out of a HP printer. The paper is from a paper bag. I start by rolling the paper to form. Attach one end of the paper with a drop of CA to the metal tube. Heavily coat the paper with Elmer's white glue and slowly roll wrap the paper around the tube. Remove excess glue. Once dry, heat tube and pull the paper off. I still have to cut it with a razor saw. Once done the book mentions to dilute CA and coat the hoop with it to strengthen it. I use the metal tube because when I heat it, the CA glue lets the paper go. Don't know the chemistry of it, but it works. Marcus
  7. flying_dutchman2
    I have been sanding - spackling and painting. She is starting to look good. I have more than 10x thin coats on her. There are still some little depressions here and there but I am leaving it at that. I am pretty happy with the results. Planning to do a few more coats of this same color. It is a very light sand color. Could not get a darker sand color in a can. Maybe in the future I will invest in air-brush equipment but I don't do a whole lot of painting.
  8. flying_dutchman2
    Love the details on the carvings and the VOC emblem on the canon. Excellent job. Marcus
  9. flying_dutchman2
    Try DELFTship http://www.delftship.net/DELFTship/index.php/delftship/delftship-free There is a free version I've been using and there are paid versions. Marcus
  10. flying_dutchman2
    Kees, Houd je taai. (be strong). Marcus
  11. flying_dutchman2
    That is too cool. What type of sail boat do you have? Marcus
  12. flying_dutchman2
    Just an update. I have restarted this built while working on the Catboat. The big difference is that, the above POB has been put aside and used for practice planking while a NEW POF is in the works. I read through this built several times and I am using the suggestions on how to create the frames. I will use 1/4" Baltic Birch Ply for the frames and 3/16" pieces in between the frames. Frames have been rough cut with the scroll saw and need to be sanded (yes, pictures will follow). Bottom line............................ this will be version 3. I have learned a lot from just building a scratch hull in both POF and POB. I need to finish the Catboat first. Marcus
  13. flying_dutchman2
    Jack, Pulling up a chair waaaay in the back against the wall. (better late than never). That is a cute boat you are building and I like how you are putting the railing together. Looking good. Marcus
  14. flying_dutchman2
    Very Nice. Your wood combination is very pleasing to the eye. I am going to copy your color for my mast, boom and gaff. I like what you did with your blocks. Now that I see the bright white color of the rigging, I am going to change that. I am going to see what my sister has on her real boat and then check my stash and see what I can come up with. I will add the sails. For the Catboat I will have my neighbor do all the stitching on the sails. She did them for the HMS Bounty, & Yacht Mary as well. I have been looking a lot at your built and have learned some things. THANKS. Marcus
  15. flying_dutchman2
    Did the primer only once and sanded it somewhat. Should have done what you suggested. More layers of primer and sanding. So I did the painting already and I did notice the dips are disappearing. I don't want to paint to thick either. Many edges of the boat will be covered with 1x1mm dowels. Thanks for the tip which I will use in my next boat (I have a pond Yacht - Solingen 1 waiting). Marcus
  16. flying_dutchman2
    So for the last 3 months I've had little time compared to the last week. Work is slowing down especially with the 95F (30 something C) temperatures and who wants to shop for plants in this heat. I am also taking 2 days a week off as well. After all the spackling and sanding the boat is relatively smooth. Tapped up areas that need to show the wood. Now comes the part of building a ship I hate the most. It is called painting. I have never been good at it. I read all types of 'How-To's', I have many articles about this subject. It is just not for me. I try to avoid it like the plaque. But,..... this boat calls for it so after reading some and practicing some I put on the first coat using a can of paint with the correct color. Darkish sand. Looked good after the paint job was on but after it dried I noticed several spots that were drippy. Sanded that down and did another coat. As of this morning it is still a problem here and there. When I look at the hull with a magnifying glass (overkill) there are all sorts of dips and bubbles. So I have decided not to be anal about this and do the best I can. It is a model and I am not trying to win a contest in best paint job. I can paint little items, but when it comes to what I do now, I get anxious. Marcus
  17. flying_dutchman2
    Just the way the plans show. The templates for the mast come off once the mast is at the correct angle. Marcus
  18. flying_dutchman2
    Nice carving. I do like the way you have the teeth painted. Marcus
  19. flying_dutchman2
    The large scale is awesome. One can add lots of details to each of them. As I mentioned before to you, It is time to start getting some cheap labor. Offer free, cheap beer and cigars and they will come in droves. :-) Marcus
  20. flying_dutchman2
    Pretty much everything has already been said and I would like to add the following: I am always looking for more 'accurate' Dutch kits from 1600 to 1800. One of the MSW members by the name 'Hans' started a company and he has the Batavia available and he is working on other ships as well. http://www.kolderstok-models.com/index.en.html For the scratch builder there is much available in the form of books with plans. Seawatch published a few by Ab Hoving and Cor Emke who did all the CAD drawings. Marcus
  21. flying_dutchman2
    Would this be Authentic Shipmodels Amsterdam? If so, I still have a catalog from them. Marcus
  22. flying_dutchman2
    LOVE doing this. The best part. Marc
  23. flying_dutchman2
    Denis, WOW, just took me an hour or two to go through this log and boy, is this an ambitious project. Production line?? I am looking forward to the rest of the log. Marc
  24. flying_dutchman2
    It is coming along nicely. On your log there have been several suggestions I can use as well. Marcus
  25. flying_dutchman2
    WOW, neat idea. Will do this on my next built. Thank you. Marc

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