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Timmo

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  1. Timmo
    Some small but noticeable items on the hull exterior ...anchor lining, fenders and steps. The kit fenders are ply and have lamination lines down the vertical face which are very noticeable under varnish. New ones were made from walnut stock off one of the kit sheets. Kit part on the right, homemade ones on the left. Likewise the entrance steps have laminations on the top faces. They had a thin veneer of walnut plank added to cover it.
  2. Timmo
    Good suggestion BE. I'll take a look. Alistair. One more post and its up a rank for you. Go on, tell me the chiefs will win tonight and you are there!
  3. Timmo
    'The path' you say Andy - we'll see. i think I've got at least another year on his majesty's bomb vessel Granado so plenty of time to dither over what to do next. The belfry was held in place with rubber bands while the glue dried. The belfry is made up of ply laminated together which gives some unsightly lamination lines. The top of the belfry was painted a 'walnutty' colour to hide it. I'm not convince over how it looks and might paint the top of the belfry black at a latter stage- we'll see... Finished windlass and belfry installed. The ship's bell is white metal painted. I hollowed out the base but it will never be seen unless you peer through the first open gunport from below the waterline. . A least I know it's there!
  4. Timmo
    Looking good Adrieke, that's going to be a major improvement on the kit.
  5. Timmo
    Thanks for the kind words all. Craig, its been an enjoyable build so far so good luck with yours. On to some more building after an absence of a few weeks... The kit would have you knock up the windlass from some ply laid over walnut centres. This doesn't look too flash and also appears extremely fiddly. The chances of me staining it anywhere near the colour of the rest of the walnut timbers is also next to zero after I've lathered glue on. The windlass stock was two lengths of 5mm dowel glued together and sanded back to 8mm square. The octagonal section was then marked on and sanded with aid of a bench sander for a consistent angle. This could be done By a steady hand. Shaped stock next to kit centre section for comparison. The centre action is smaller due to the 1mm ply which would take it to full 8mm width. The centre was just the right size to mark the end of the taper on the windlass. It was stuck on temporarily and starting marks for the taper added in pencil. Taper sanded in. It's just a matter starting at the pencil line and reducing the material to the width of the marker section. The windlass pieces with end width markers removed and cut to length. This worked out well enough that it could have been done in one piece but the lack of a lathe meant turning the axle would have been difficult so out with the saw.
  6. Timmo
    That's looking superb Christian. I hope when one day I can build Diana she looks half as good as yours.
  7. Timmo
    Happy birthday Jason
  8. Timmo
    Welcome back Christian. A very nice build there with the work to convert to 1794, especially like the extra work on the stern gallery as the pillars and other details added there lift it way above the kit. Yourself and Ray have some great Dianas on the slipway.
  9. Timmo
    Clean job on the deck furniture fitting there Slog. Nice camber on the underside on the pieces. I've always struggled with that myself but hopefully the new birthday bench sander will make things easier as they have for you. Those lines to the stern light shutters look great.
  10. Timmo
    Just found your log. Nice recovery on the mast Peter and brilliant previous work there.
  11. Timmo
    A very nice looking build there Ferit. You've taken the kit way beyond what was in the box with some skillful additions. I look forward to following.
  12. Timmo
    Rule of thirds seems to sit best but you're best to set it up roughly on that measurement and make sure it looks right. I've laid the pedestals on the full size plans to make sure it looks right. it could also depend on other factors like length of bowsprit. It's obviously got nothing to do with supporting the hull but its worth considering I'm building a bomb vessel with a sprit about a third as long again as the vessel and its worth just setting the pedestals either on the plans or under the hull if you've got that far and sticking a dummy pole on the front to make sure it still looks right.
  13. Timmo
    Finished chimney flue. Probably should have airbrushed it but that bit of gear is off on loan and 4 coats of brush paint did the trick. Hard to see on with artificial lighting in these shots but I rub some scraped graphite off a pencil onto larger metal parts like this with a finger. I realise painted ironwork on the real thing would be fairly flat black but I like to display the differences in materials on these vessels otherwise the iron chimney looks the same as the painted wood. The graphite catches the edge and makes the surface look a little more metallic.
  14. Timmo
    The chimney is next. It's a cast white metal piece that's fine on its own but if you've got a spare couple of hours while the admiral is at work and the children play happily on a rainy day then its worth improvement. Winter is here in that my iPhone forecast says rain until well into next week but its' still warm enough to work in the concrete floor garage/modelling space (carpet under the desk). Here's what AOTS Granado advises. I'm a bit of a hobby cook and am fascinated by what it would be like to cook for upwards of 100 men and then a separate meal befitting gentlemen for the captain and officers, on one of these beasts. But you can only see the chimney flue of this vessel. The main addition is a flue cover. And brackets holding it. Presumably it stops wind and wave coming down the chimney and drowning the cooker as the foc'sle was very exposed. The brackets and rods were added from lead foil and wire respectively and the flu cover itself was cut from sheet styrene from my plastic modelling days. Here it is in place Wider shot of the foc'sle here. The timber heads have also been added. Paint on the chimney is drying so completed pic to follow soon.
  15. Timmo
    Here's an indication of the quality of this kit. The fish davit cleat pictured below has some rather nice rounded molding work straight from the box. I was expecting some file work would be needed to achieve the profile from AOTS Granado but it's already there. Brilliant.
  16. Timmo
    Good move. I don't know why caldercraft persist with mishapen tillers from 2d ply. They always seem to benefit from remaking and it's usually not too difficult.
  17. Timmo
    That's looking great Ray.
  18. Timmo
    Off the topic with a book recommendation but I'd highly recommend 'in the heart of the sea' by Nathaniel Philbrick. It's a very thorough but readable account of the Essex's Demi's and survivors' subsequent struggle with each other and the elements at sea. Gripping stuff.
  19. Timmo
    Splices look fine to me Slog. But then I've got limited experience. No one is a harsher critic than the builder himself. It's a handsome endeavour and a very crisp build Wayne
  20. Timmo
    Been so long since the mortars were finished I'd almost forgot where they were. Just a test fit but had to make the kappppoooowwww!! noises once they were in. Makes the boat look rather sinister...
  21. Timmo
    Thanks guys. I'll stop boring you with rails and move onto something else now.
  22. Timmo
    Quarter deck rails under construction. These had about 1mm sanded off the outside edge to allow the molding scratch built molding to be glued on and still leave it the same width. This is important as the rail meets with a curved end piece running onto the main capping rail. The groove was cut into this piece with a drill, blade and file a before and is visible in the latter pics. The rail painted up and test fitted. The fore section with painting completed. The stripe was easier than expected. I masked and painted with the test strips in yellow seen earlier but the blue ones were done by hand with a brush which followed the groove fairly well. The timber was varnished first to prevent the paint bleeding into the still fairly loosed grained walnut. This allowed a blade to be scraped along the rails to clean up the edge with the acrylic paint coming away in a sharp edge with just some spot scraping to tidy.
  23. Timmo
    No worries Andy, dangerous precedent I nearly set there- modelling by committee! I'm a slow enough builder as it is but Imagine how little work would be done if I asked the group to decide next time..... Maybe someone should start a log like that with each step determined by popular vote. As long as its not me. Ha ha.
  24. Timmo
    Great suggestion from Blue Ensign. I've gone with the natural walnut capping rail with a blue strip down it. This required abandoning the basswood ones I'd made but in hindsight the walnut didn't splinter at all really as I'd feared and turned out better than expected. I like the way it ties in the colurs without being too garish. Just the top of the rails to be painted black and the same treatment for the quarterdeck rail.
  25. Timmo
    That hull is looking good Slog. I wouldn't have noticed the waterline issue unless you'd pointed it out. I've learned similar lessons about overspray from a can. You simply can't rely on spray direction keeping it away from gaps in the masking as it somehow seems to drift upwards, sideways and everywhere. That paper would have been fine if the edges were taped together to make it a continuous cover. What brand and colour of yellow have you got on the transom decorations? I'm still dithering over the yellow to use for the stern of my granado and yours looks good. Wayne

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