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Keith Black

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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Would the upper running line (topgallant braces and lifts) have been a lighter shade due to sun bleaching and less inadvertent contact with tarred stay lines at the lower levels? I've never seen a model depicted in such a manner and I don't know if it would have been noticeable at scale. Just curious, TYIA.
  2. Lynn, do yourself a favor and paint (the same paint you used to paint the hull) a test piece. Then try to glue a couple of the copper tiles or tape to the painted test piece. I think you're going to find that trying to glue to a painted surface isn't going to work out well. You'll probably have to seal (varnish or polyurethane) that portion of hull you want to copper plate. Did the kit come with individual tile or copper tape? It's exciting when one starts applying paint as it brings a little life to the model but it shows the slightest imperfections. Most of the time one has to first apply a sandable primer coat or two as this helps to fill those small divots while highlighting the high points. Glad you got the Workmate and that the eBay seller worked with you. My wife and I have almost 800 eBay purchases going back to the early eBay beginnings including four classic cars and we've always had the best of experiences using eBay. Golf is back on TV!
  3. I don't know that she would have had the chance to participate as the Saranac was built in 1814 (decommissioned 1818) and the war was over by December of 1814.
  4. Julian, welcome to MSW. I hope you'll start a build log for your Rattlesnake, I look forward to seeing your work.
  5. Konrad, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  6. GS, 250 ft length, 44 ft beam. GR 334 ft length, 53 ft beam. Rob, sorry, I thought GS was larger. The below photo of your GR compared to the photos of the GS in post #'s 2293 and 2294 make the GS look larger but I now I understand it's the scale. My memory failed on GR's scale, I thought she was 1:96 as well.
  7. Rob, she's beautiful and big. I have a lot of the photos you posted of your GR on your workbench burned in my memory. The GR is dwarfed by the GS.
  8. Look at all those little bitty pieces parts in post # 42 and in place in post # 43. Fantastic job, Glen.
  9. Dave, please don't do that. I know it's frustrating but you've got to get over this hump successfully. Redoing is part and parcel in modeling, hitting a home run first time out is the exception, not the rule. Take a day or two to think about it, work it out in your mind. Think how you would remove the planks and what it would take to make laying the planks right. The first build takes a lot of practice, if you don't do the required practice on this kit, you'll be doing it on the next. You CAN do this, I've got faith in you!
  10. Dirk, congratulations on getting the first plank in place. May the rest of the planks bring you as much joy as the first.
  11. CK, thank you for downloading these and I look forward to seeing more. Thank you. The error code you got is a ongoing problem a lot of us have been having as of late. I think most of us work around the problem by downloading photos till we get the error code and then save the post. We then edit the post and download the remaining photos. Edit is in the more options (three dots) at the top right next to the post number.
  12. Agreed, Gregory and Tom. 7.953 inches = 42.4 feet and sounds reasonable. 8.66 inches = 46.16 feet which would add another 2 feet either side of beam. Tom, the model should measure approximately 5.73 inches at the beam.
  13. Rob, the first time I saw a Workmate in use was in a photo you posted doing off ship mast work on the Great Republic. Thanks for looking in.
  14. Having a beam of 30 feet 8 inches, a main yard 30 feet long with a diameter of 7 inches sounds small. Topsail, maybe?
  15. CK, welcome to MSW. First off, your group is a special breed, being a former Marine I can't thank you enough for your service. Second, I don't know a thing about the maker but I'm intrigued by the model, is it possible to take a few more pictures and post them, please.
  16. Randy, if you look at the glue in the bottle and the glue applied to the wood, it's white, not amber. Is this what you used? https://www.gorillatough.com/product/original-gorilla-glue/
  17. Randy, this appears to be a good link. I'm sorry I mislead you in post #2. https://startwoodworkingnow.com/how-to-dissolve-wood-glue/
  18. Roger and Kurt, I've read other MSW post where Isopropyl Alcohol is the recommended method for removing dried wood glue and I have no argument with that recommendation. Before replying to Randy's I did a quick Google search looking for the alcohol method but didn't find a Google link specifying Isopropyl Alcohol. What I did find was the below link by Loctite. I'm confused as to why a manufacture (Locite) would recommend one thing (Acetone) while years of collective MSW experience supports using Isopropyl Alcohol? I personally have never used either method so I've got no dog in this fight. I'm sorry if I've lead Randy astray. https://www.loctite-consumer.co.uk/en/how-to-guide/gluing-guide/how-to-remove-glue-from-wood-easily.html
  19. James, welcome to MSW. Wishing you the very best.
  20. Both methods are suggested by Loctite. You can also place a warm wet rag on the glue for several minutes allowing the glue to soften so it can be scrapped away.
  21. Bill, if it were scratch built or of historical significance I would agree but being a kit........
  22. Egads, the dreaded tweezer releaser, I hate when that happens!
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