Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Dave, as Tom Silva says, "money's in the details" or the old saw "devil is in the details". The more time you spend working on the details, the better model you're going to have in the end. Model ship building is a marathon of patience. It's not how fast you get to the end, it's how well you journeyed to get there. This is your crossroads, it's the point where Dave has to decide if he's going to do the very best he can no matter what or how long it takes, or if he decides to settle for mediocrity. Please believe me when I say I don't mean to sound rude because I'm not trying to be. You see, I'm pulling for Dave to model the best Lady Nelson possible. -
And then there's the electric drill lathe which you probably already own.
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Mark, you fired one. If memory serves, you could get off two rounds (provided the arc was high enough) before the first one landed. Is that correct or have I watched too many war movies since our Vietnam getaway?
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The M79 was a fun weapon to shoot. It had an easy kick with a pleasant 'thunk' when fired.
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Dan, welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing your work in a build log.
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Keith, elegant solution, it turned out great. Have you thought about making custom hamster wheels?
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Once again, I've never tiled a hull so I'm talking out my hat more or less. In my mind I see gluing nice shinny new tile onto the hull being much easier than tile that's been messed about with. The more even/flat the edges and no chemical residue left on the tile's glue side sounds like the ticket. Reading what folks have gone through coppering a hull individual tile is a difficult and messy process. Eric, have you thought about using copper tape and a pounce wheel? Attached is a good discussion regarding tape vs tile.
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I've never tiled a hull so my advise is based solely on observation. The best copper tiled hull I've seen is where the modeler tiled three rows down from the waterline and then tiled the keel and continued to tile up to meet the first three rows laid down. As far a tile weathering, a heavily weathered copper hull looks a bit odd when no other weathering techniques are employed on the rest of the ship. If one is going to model the ship as new then the copper sheathing should only have a light patina IMHO.
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Eric, IMHO you need to buy another set and start over. I don't think you need to be open flame aggressive in aging the tiles. Putting them on first and then chemical aging them is going to work out best for you.
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Pat, it the jig for making blocks or stropping blocks? Sorry for being a bit thick headed.
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Yeah, like we got such high standards to live up to. Don't you remember the time Dad and Uncle Dave......... I say Chubbly, mince pie puts me a bit off, have you any Crumble? If I have to wait till Spring I may as well make them myself and save my MSW friends the pain of reintroduction.
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Mark, because of changing wind direction I don't see that stack design as bing viable as there's no vane to rotate. Now, if the stack was mounted out the cabin wall we'd be ready to cook slab bacon and biscuits.
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I'm anxious to hear how the cutter works out.
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I'm going to seal my wood models. I worry most about the painted wood surfaces flaking because in time paint will flake. Varnish or poly will help minimize flaking. Artist and cabinet makers have been varnishing their works for hundreds of years.
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But like their British cousins, their engineering (automobile) wasn't always practical.
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Gregory, wouldn't wind blow down the stove throat with the stack pointed aft? A straight pipe with a rain cap on top makes more sense to me but I don't claim to be an expert but I do have almost twenty years experience living in houses with wood or oil stoves. Smokey downdrafts are the pits.
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Chris, congratulations on completing a neat little build. There is something special about biplanes.
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Regarding the kit differences, it's probably due to the difference in age between JEB's kit produced in the early 80's and yours some thirty years later. Manufacturing differences would/should be expected over a thirty year span. In this plan drawing, those are chainplates. JEB's solution was to simply put brass pins in the hull, ran a line around the pin head and up to the deadeyes. Can you rework the chainplates provided with the kit? There are suppliers who provide model bits. I agree, the stove pipe doesn't look right. Straight up capped with a top would be more accurate, IMHO. Almost everyone 'kit bashes' because kit manufactures don't always provide the best materials.
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Jim, I like seeing you're going to push through regardless. Please take a moment to introduce and tell us a bit about yourself in the New Member Introductions section (see link) and then start a build log for the Flying Fish. In your build log you'll be able to ask questions, address build issues, and post photos. A build log is one of the best ways of getting help. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/
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Jim, first let me welcome you to MSW. As to your problem, I'm not build familiar with this kit but that looks correct. we have a member who has completed the kit and created a photo album, please see the below link.
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Pat, can the jig be adjusted to accommodate the different block sizes? What is the smallest to the largest block size you'll be working with?
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Then I've gotta stop what I'm doing and schedule visits to all the various mental hospitals.
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Rico, welcome to MSW. Nice models, you should do well.
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