Keith Black

1. White 2. Also white 3. Natural or a light brown with a hint of red.

Thank you, Roel and thank you for following along. There are gaps and then there are gaps, those I left around the maintenance doors looked like they were cut using an ax and a dull one at that. Feeling much much better, thank you. Thank you, Glen. Thank you, Keith. To be truthful, the plan was a bit sketchy. Thank you, Bob. Yes, the deck is open where the pitman arm rotates.

Thank you, Gary. And thank you to everyone for the comments and likes. This is the last time the interior of the engine room will be visible from above. Roof added and with that the engine room is done except for the fire bucket boxes and painting. After posting the photos In my post #276 the engine room's lean toward the bow had to be addressed...much better. After painting the interior white hopefully it won't be quite so dark. I didn't want to add maintenance door trim but because quality control was out sick the day they sided the port and starboard walls I had no choice but to add door trim. It's hard finding good help these days Rudder post added. I'm tickled pink with the clearances between the wheel and the rudder post and the alignment of the openings for the engine timbers and pitman arms. I was pretty stressed about being able to make that all happen as it should. Thank you for your support and being part of the journey. Keith

Greg, you need some jewelers pliers. The jaws are smooth, makes what you're doing much easier as one isn't so worried about creating tool marks. Your project fascinates me to no end, I'm throughly enjoying your build, great stuff.

Mark, I apologize for continuing to call you Scott. The deck looks great including the winches.

Bob, I was digging around and found another French Corvette but I think the time frame is a little later than the Astrolabe.

My choice, Mark.

Scott, this is one of several discussions on poly line, searching the subject will provide others.

That's some awfully fiddly work, mcb. And like all your work, very believable.

You most certainly can providing your line/thread is scaled correctly. I have used needle threaders successfully on 2 and 3 mm deadeyes and blocks with the original hole diameter as is, not enlarged. A caveat, I use Gutermann polyester thread and not cotton thread. Maybe cotton reacts differently and doesn't compress as much as poly line does? I use poly instead of cotton as cotton deteriorates too quickly.

Bill, for me it's easier and quicker plus needle threaders are cheap. The link I provided is for one type but there are other types.

Scott, you need to get yourself some needle threaders. Some folks swear by wetting the end of the thread with CA and once dry pushing the thread through the blocks. I never had success trying to push line through blocks that way. The only thing that works for me are needle threaders. I'm posting a Amazon link but you can get them at Joann Fabrics and Crafts stores and they're available at other craft stores. https://www.amazon.com/Threader-Threaders-Universal-Embroidery-Needlework/dp/B09YNS98B6/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2PDX7B5FCSMJV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6zES97mdJ4gE0IH6d7XoQRqc5yMo-UUVykqut7FPMOjrT2muN_Rog4N-xSmv1ZUarFgNpoToH5JZZ4HXzAgLTc150kYUtySqNNatO9HoERL87vcQPwoCb32a1gzXHdulQY1ntNOnBZ-GbeDUySYoi-3-_gkbzHCj0TZBX5u60m4cWsKdH8dl5oQzg6DFhGnFSHa8RfZnVAQu6fUP9nlRaYcBNc5uFlTktq8GZEVJi2WRIwpF9tRLL9EkIvcRrw4Zv3a3IMCh8BdTAHHlZ6TalL5yBR3E6FdsOjjp_oeQ-MA.ZzVXIhJa6n40G4w2s8MEVxvrO1s_L181MNLA9TXg8rg&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&qid=1739677147&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=nee%2Carts-crafts%2C100&sr=1-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

The bow looks terrific, Mark.

Eric, I enjoy seeing your work and as much of a pain it is taking photos I and I'm sure everyone else would enjoy seeing them. If you don't wanna go to the hassle of creating a build log please feel free to post pics on Lula's log.

My pleasure, Greg.

Great deck work, Jacques. it looks fantastic.

That sure is pretty work, Siggi.

Vossie, I've not heard of that before, interesting. Lynn, if I take the time, I take a paper towel and clean the tippy by twisting the paper towel around the tip. My super glue bottles get pretty grungy because I'm kinda lazy and often I have to brute force open a used bottle, that way I get my exercise.

I can, thank you, Greg. I'm throughly enjoying your build and look forward to each new post.

Thank you, Lynn.

Greg, the photo didn't post, please post again, I'm anxious to see your progress.

I agree with Vossie, Lynn. Much much better, you're well on your way now.

Phil, from what I read it seems that zinc anodes being frowned upon for wood hulls is recent. Someone wrote that the zinc anodes should be removed and the wood soaked in vinegar or if too badly damaged, replaced. I'm new to this topic so all I've got to go on is Mr Google. Up till a couple of hours ago I didn't even know how to spell zinc.

Thank you, Pat. I think with both the port and starboard maintenance doors open plus the opening fat the forward engine room wall there would be plenty of ventilation. The port and starboard walls/doors are cast in stone at this point. I'm sure there must be an Native American name for someone like myself, something that roughly translates to He who hides engines Both times I've fallen it's because I've been thinking about something other than watching my step. I just need to pay more attention to what I'm about. All's good, thank you.

https://forums.ybw.com/threads/beware-anode-advice.543843/ https://waitematawoodys.com/2015/05/15/electrochemical-damage-to-wood-the-marine-version-of-leaky-homes/ https://waitematawoodys.com/?s=electrochemical&submit=Searc Yes, zinc anodes are generally considered bad for wooden boats because they can cause significant damage to the wood due to overprotection, creating a caustic environment around the anode that can rot the wood fibers, especially when connected to metal fittings on the boat; most experts recommend avoiding zinc anodes on wooden hulls and opting for alternative options like aluminum anodes if necessary. Key points about zinc anodes and wooden boats: Electrolysis damage: When a zinc anode is attached to a wooden boat with metal fittings, the electrical current generated can cause the wood around the metal parts to deteriorate due to the chemical reaction with the saltwater. Overprotection: Zinc anodes tend to produce a higher voltage than needed for wooden boats, leading to excessive corrosion protection that can damage the wood. Caustic environment: The reaction between zinc and saltwater creates a caustic environment around the anode, which can rapidly degrade wood fibers. Alternatives for wooden boats: Aluminum anodes: Some boat owners choose aluminum anodes as they can provide adequate protection without causing the same level of damage to wood. Careful selection and placement: If you do use any anode on a wooden boat, carefully select the right type and position it to minimize contact with the wood and potential damage.