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Everything posted by Keith Black
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You once asked me if I had an onset of early perfectionism, sir, you embody the word! It's a pleasure to watch from the sidelines.
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Bow surgery completed. Now working on bowsprit 3.0, the bowsprit is pinned to the deck and is removable. The banding is temporary, just getting feel for placement. I like the looks of this bowsprit much better, now the bow looks a lot more like that of the real Tennessee.
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Roger, sir I would agree with you one hundred percent if we were talking about raw wood but we're not. This is a polyurethaned surface, you can't screw it up with acrylic paint unless you apply it with a belt sander. Acrylic paint laid down on a polyurethaned surface can be wiped off with a wet cloth. If you don't like it, wipe it off and you're back to square one. You're out a little paint and time but you know that method won't/isn't going to work and it's on to the next solution. I've been successful doing this on furniture, the Tennessee's deck and a on a Swift model I restored where I had to match the front hatch cover's natural wood to a new rear hatch cover I made from a different type of wood. I had to use acrylic paint because the new rear hatch cover wouldn't stain to look like the other. One caveat to this method is one must use a very fine paint brush and also, you need a good eye for color.
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Keith, I had a similar situation arise on the Tennessee deck. The deck is also polyurethaned so I was able to mix craft type acrylic paints to match the decking and touched up my boo boo area. What's so great about painting on top of poly is, if you don't like it, it will wipe right off with a wetted Q-tip. So you can have as many goes at it as you want till pleased or give up on that being a solution. No harm, no foul. If you are able to mix colors to match the decking and paint to your satisfaction, just be sure to poly over the paint to seal. I hope this might help because I feel your pain.
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No, not potholes......geeez, at least none that I've ever seen laid out in such elegant design. I was thinking about all those holes in the deck and the lines from the song, "And though the holes were rather small They had to count them all" and instead thought, Keith had to fill them all. Hats off to your marvelous workmanship.
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Reminds me of the line from "A Day in the Life" .........Four thousand holes in Blackburn, Lancashire
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Ask those officers to step aside, it's right there. The muzzle is right there in the middle at wrist height.
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Tim, thank you. Regarding the cannon, in this H and H photo it appears to be a signal cannon but then I'm not a cannon expert. Unfortunately this is the only close up photo of the cannon.
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Paul, absolutely. Had I not made the change and then completed, every time I looked at it I would have questioned my lazy judgement. Thank you Paul and Keith for the comments and to all those for the "likes"
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Keith, I'm suffering from a lot of early everything. It's not perfectionism, it just wasn't right. I strive to do the best I can (I wish I had 50 more years of experience where I could really do this model justice) while building as accurately as possible from the H and H photos. Yes, hail to steam and sail!
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The original model's bow was done incorrectly, the bowsprit did not socket into the bow but was mounted to the deck. I could no longer ignore the obvious, out came the jeweler's saw and off with it's nose. It would have been one heck of a lot less work to leave it as was and move on but then..........
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I've completed construction of the basic masts. Each mast is removable for off ship working and each has the ends shimmed/glued and so no further alignment will be needed when taking in and out. I've given each mast three degrees of rake. I didn't rake the mizzen more as the Hatton and Hart photographs to my eye indicate that all three mast had the same rake. I'm going to redo the bow sprit/ jib boom as the current is a bit chunky.
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Spot on Keith! I love the jig, great problem solving. I'm most impressed by the fact that you managed to keep from crushing the rim of the eyes when clamped in the vise.
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The main construction of the mast is completed. From the crosstrees to the caps will eventually be white but I don't want to paint till I'm ready to glue. I connected the ends of the trees as that's what I see in the afore mentioned photo. There is a drawing showing this type of design, as to why the the ends were connected I have but guesses.
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Yes Tony, I'm very fortunate that the Hatton and Hart photographs of the Tennessee exist. I have looked at them for countless hours and I'll still see something I've not noticed before. I never tire of looking at them, looking back in time to an era that was so short lived.
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Thank you Mark, Pete, Phil for the likes and thank you Paul for the likes and the kind comment. The more I get into making the new mast, the more I wonder what took me so long to relegate the originals to the boneyard. Working from the photograph of the mizzen, I noted something I've not seen replicated in a model before, (that's not to say it hasn't been, I'm just unaware if it has) there are two approximately ten foot vertical boards on either side of center of the mast. I assume (there I go, jump in and correct me if i'm wrong) they're there to protect the mast when a yard is lowered to the deck going from perpendicular to the ship to parallel to the ship when the yard needed to be repaired or replaced. My old brain is working on the next step, the crosstrees. From the attached photo looking at the main mast, it appears to indicate the trees were connected at the ends? I'll gladly take comments as any tree that I've seen before have the ends open.
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It's been awhile since I've made an entry as I was off learning a bit about rigging while restoring a Swift model. The original mast, bowsprit and jib boom were grossly out of scale and have been scrapped. I've started making replacements that I hope more accurately represent those that the USS Tennessee carried. I'm working from a photograph of the mizzen viewed toward the stern but doesn't show the top. I'm going with all three mast having the same construction making a best guess for the tops and above. I want to take this opportunity to thank Rob Wiederrich for his help and support and for his Great Republic build log which I've spent many hours viewing.
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