Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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I can't tell their exact shape due to the image quality. They attach to the hull via chain plates through a channel as deadeyes would but the top deadeye is below the cap rail which isn't normal and they don't appear to be rigging screws? Whatever the actual shape, they do appear to be shroud tensioners. Tis a mystery. -
That's what it looks like to me also. The hawse comes from the anchor over the bow, down the starboard side of the ladder, coils on the deck and is tied off above the coil.
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Thank you, Talos Thank you, Gary. After my stroke my left hand was completely paralyzed. By the grace of God, long hours of outstanding physical therapy, and through dogged determination I've regained about 95% usage of my left hand. I am very fortunate and thankful.
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Thank you to all for the kind comments and likes. The first photo shows the two finished Dahlgren guns and their carriages. Photos two and three show the Dahlgren on deck in their stowed positions. Photo four, in the background is a Dahlgren from the original model. The gun closest to the viewer is one of the finished guns. I made the middle Dahlgren in the summer of 2017. At the time I was still trying to get the fingers in my left hand to work properly after my stroke in January of 2017. I wasn't pleased with it but I knew I needed to wait for recovery and gain the necessary experience and skills to make an acceptable model of the 11 inch guns. Both the background and middle guns have been pushed overboard without buoys. Making the sweeps for the two Dahlgren and the two Parrott guns is next.
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Mike, welcome aboard. The tug is looking really good, please start a build log where we can follow your progress.
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That stern view photo is a great shot, the light source high from starboard side creates a perfect effect. I would love to see the entire model from that angle with the same lighting. If you didn't know better you'd swear it's a real full-size boat. Gary, you've added so much detail into the Last Dollar that it appears to be a much larger model than it actually is.
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BB, do you think that the original nail holes were predrilled when the model was first constructed? I'm inclined to think not as I've come across nails that have curved because they followed the grain of the wood. Though my mind tells me they must have predrilled the holes or the trim pieces and gunport covers would have split during the original construction because those are some pretty hefty nails. It's a quandary. Would love to see the what work you've done on the hull, photos?
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There for a minute I thought we were about to play "who's on first"
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Keith, it's great to have you back with us even if it's only for one day a week. The layoff didn't affect your workmanship, beautiful as always. I love the portholes, super nice detail.
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Gerco, welcome aboard and enjoy your stay.
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Va, thank you. The 11 inch Dahlgren smooth bore could fire both round ball, 166 lb. and solid shot or shell, 133.5 lb. The Tennessee's two 11 inch Dahlgren smooth bore were swapped out for two 11 inch Dahlgren converted to a 8 inch rifle in 1881.
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Both 11 inch Dahlgren guns and gun carriages are completed, on to their truck carriages.
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I don't think so either. IMHO, I think you have to attack by painting the frames white first and then sealing. Once the sealant is dry paint the panes black and let them dry. Once they're dry, because the frames stand proud of the panes, you should be able remove the black overpaint from the frames with the moist Q-Tip. Once happy with that effort, then add a second coat of sealer. That's the only way I see to do it...........did you ever consider working on something in a larger scale?
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Chris, before you seal the paint and if that's acrylic black paint, try moistening a Q-Tip or the end of a toothpick with water and rubbing gently on the white frames. You may be able to lift/clear the black paint off the frames.
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Yeah, I'm going through Germania update withdrawal. I need a fix before I start smoking the wallpaper.
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1/600! My eyes hurt just typing that number. I've had small areas I've painted with the end of a toothpick. If the frames are black you might try flooding the window glass with white paint on the end of a needle or sewing pin.
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I don't why (optical illusion) but the hull length looks stubby compared to the hull depth?
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I polyurethane over acrylic craft painted wood. If I need to add fine detail painted areas once sealed, the polyurethane allows me to wipe the acrylic paint away with a moist Q-Tip if I'm not satisfied with the results. Once I'm happy with the results I then poly over the entirety. You might test that approach, seal first then use acrylic black paint for the window details and then seal again.
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You might try sealing a test piece before adding the ink and see what happens. Maybe the ink will dry on top of the sealer but not underneath? If the ink dries on top of the sealer then the ink would be the only thing unsealed.
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Best to do a test piece/pieces and then you'll know.
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Chris, I hope you're able to set things right without losing interest in the model because it's a beautiful build.
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