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Keith Black

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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Congratulations on getting the Revenge into the bottle, Glen. She's a real corker that one, fantastic execution. 👍
  2. Adrian, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  3. Rinekar, welcome to MSW. All the best building the Adder, glad to have you aboard.
  4. Great post, Paul. The base looks terrific, nice snag. And the planking is looking fantastic. What wood species is the planking?
  5. Good looking busy work while waiting for the hull to dry, James. Regarding rigging line..... cotton line stinks, it's fuzzy and its life expectancy is very limited. A lot of builders (including museums when doing rigging restoration work) are using polyester thread. It's almost 100% fuzz free and it has a much much longer shelf life than cotton. I use Gutermann as do many others. You get a couple of kits under your belt and you'll start wondering why your paying high kit prices and scraping 50% of it.
  6. James, I'm unfamiliar with Varathane Polyurethane, I have only ever used Minwax Polyurethane. Once upon a time I did the same thing as yourself and tried wiping down with paint thinner and made a dog's lunch of the whole thing, In the end I still had to wait till the poly dried where I could then sand down and start over. Lesson learned......set it aside and wait till it dries. Find something to work on while you twiddle your fingers.
  7. Sounds a bit sketchy to me, Patrick. It seems counterintuitive that you'd be able to apply pressure and drill a straight hole? A pin vise is an inexpensive tool designed for the sole purpose of drilling holes.
  8. You're more than welcome, James. The double ended pin vise is the best option, IMHO. They allow one to get closer if necessary. And yes, it definitely would have made it a lot easier. When drilling holes for nails you can drill a undersize hole, tap in the nail hoping pressure will keep the nail in place. Personally I like to drill slightly oversize, easily insert the nail with a bit of CA (super glue) on the shake to keep it in place. This is because wood dries out and shrinks and the nail could come loose. Using CA kinda insures the nail won't come out.
  9. James, if you have a pin vise you could drill holes where the nails would fit in neatly without hammering. If you don't have a pin vise it is a simple and relatively inexpensive tool that you should have, IMHO. The bottom link is for micro drill bits and included is a pin vise that is absolutely worthless but the drill bits are the ones I buy. https://www.amazon.com/Double-Detachable-Manual-Jewelry-Making/dp/B09NMGSR87/ref=sr_1_59?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.B22oabypIjH-iebkMfnzPJKL4a1vE532JIJK1jDQB5W2gooxlhfqH39wWAFNZeHkDeShVtejK1vwPqY57H38qn_-yZZTC4QhcHhvfAZ4zAOzZv61P6Hcp3o4WCbd77iPoYIju3j-aZe_R0-s-APT7HCH3_N5M8lGOFEn5ZNRe45zAkjM4VZQPcu7qaGB3-C1iuHI9fPgHLqlyNVNxHBKtBVJDokCexG8CAF4lcGnqKBrcJjFjEVSrGxuVGQXzZgLZHuJPmgdpY_og7DxQXAvar1YjQ8TRZOH9BrsKgr3wUo.vmcSnzUjNyKB76jttn8ZuITxbXpEFAo07LgWqqSykCA&dib_tag=se&hvadid=693388925260&hvdev=c&hvexpln=67&hvlocphy=9052573&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=12088025368565546822--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12088025368565546822&hvtargid=kwd-436988750327&hydadcr=7499_13183988&keywords=pin+vise+amazon&mcid=6b07454c0cae36ef8775ed1eb0e4fe65&qid=1761378944&sr=8-59 https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Numbered-Jewelers-Mini-Pin-Plastic/dp/B0FKN8X949/ref=sr_1_13?crid=15GZPT3FXGCRK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tfi-QX1AoFqRxotiH0RCBQhs9jLI2An9Vwl8Tur4mOTurcnktlFWze0azTOjpCwiQmCXb-hR3HmCE0edGKX-mq8cxP-VMsBXMidh7pC76e1ZqVh8AArbYYk38se2VN868mxo8hv_pP2tV5fJmcjm0Q9wOOFRDYJZVudpnf76899vBqRCezuUeYw4qgs2CMl0z6Bc_Q2rz0HIpvv3pUq_1f1wuC2NEjPoAV-B4UhliMY.zW-Dt9aNDPFb74AtTli_s66MTrMCStxaT7gPjp36RcI&dib_tag=se&keywords=micro+drill+bits&qid=1761379202&sprefix=micro+drill+bits%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-13
  10. She looks perfect, Glen. I'm all clinched up, let the fireball insertion commence!
  11. Great planking job for the fist go, James. She's looking right smart.
  12. My condolences on your dad's passing, James. I know and appreciate the need/desire to connect with him. Having said that, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard and all the best to you as you start your ship modeling journey. Keith
  13. Thank you, Keith. I can't wait till the material dries where I can start playing with pastels and poly. Thank you, Eberhard. Ken threw that "culm" fastball right past me as well, I had to Google that unfamiliar word for the meaning. Thank you again, Ken.
  14. Thank you very much, Glen. After loading the barge it took me a couple of hours getting the level to what looked like the right height and sculpted to the correct shape and then getting the correct amount of spillage on the outside edges. if I had it to do over I don't know if there's anything I could have done differently? Being the first time it was trial and error, hopefully I was able to minimized the error part.
  15. Mondo, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  16. Thank you everyone for the support with your comments and likes. "Doesn't look grotty enough yet" I think I moved the needle on the grotty meter, John. The barge load of material weighs approximately 300 tons. The material is still curing/drying out. I tried adding acrylic craft paint to tint the material's color, I didn't quite get there, it's kinda ugly. I'll have to add color once everything has dried. I'll also poly coat everything that needs to look wet. The deckhand used the steam gun to clean around the bollards before tying up. Thanks guys and gals for following along. keith
  17. Thank you for your input, Roel. Regarding the cord containment at either end. having had some experience with this sort of thing, even though loose once those boards are in place they either never come back out or never go back in after the first load due to material getting between the boards and the vertical slides.
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