JpR62

Wonderful! This brig is absolutely gorgeous. A real pleasure to admire all the perfectly executed details.

WOP -> Wipe-On-Poly Unfortunately, very difficult to obtain in Europe ☹️ Scrubbyj427, Thank you for sharing this great technique !

Thanks to all the 'Likes'. This week, I put the planking between the wales and the first layer of the molding. For this I used the method described by Chuck and proceeded to shape the planks using a small travel iron and a hair dryer. I have to say that this method works pretty well and makes it easier to get the planks in place. I found that the second strake, the one that fills the space, was still difficult because the width of the planks must be really precise. The next strake should be easier as it will consist of a constant 5/32" width, although here it will be the length that needs to be precise to leave a 1/64" gap around each gun port.

What a great example of perfection! This is absolutely top notch work.

Always so pleasant to follow the progress of your work Bob.

Thank you Glenn and Mike for your kind words and thanks to all the 'Likes'. Glenn, cherry is really a beautiful wood and the quality provided by Wood Project Source is really excellent. Too bad they are out of business. Mike, this project is really interesting and indeed a lot of fun. Just a little progress this week with the installation of the first layer of the molding just under the gunports. They had to be positioned just 1/64" below the edge of the gunports. It's really a small rabbet... I again used a temporary batten strip to try to be as precise as possible. I started dividing the open space between the wales and the molding in half so I could prepare the planking.

Thank you Glenn and B.E. for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'. Glenn, indeed I chose cherry wood for the hull. The deck will be made of boxwood. Blue Ensign, I do not claim authorship of my modification because it is indeed while browsing through your superb build log that I came up with the idea of this addition. I really liked the idea of seeing the space under the skylight. I continue in parallel to finalize the two rooms that we will see from the openings of the deck. I just finished the 2 side walls of the room that is under the companionway. I am now going to make the wall that will separate the 2 rooms.

Thank you to all the 'Likes'. Installation of the wales Inspired by the method used by Blue Ensign, I decide to leave in place the batten strip that determines the position of the wales. To prevent it from sticking to the bulkheads, I stick a strip of self-adhesive transparent paper on its inside and apply two good coats of acrylic varnish on its edge. When I am satisfied with the positioning of the 2 reference batten (they follow the reference marks quite precisely with a few adjustments), I can rely on them to set up the first planking strip. I use 5/32" wide cherry strips with a thickness of 3/64" (luckily I was able to get them mill to the right size). I start gluing from the bow and move forward slowly gluing the strip on 4 to 5 bulkheads at a time. The first strake is glued. I had to shorten the reference batten strip to facilitate the gluing at the stern and to be able to position precisely the first strake at the break of the counter and square tuck. I also had to do an additional sanding of the outer frame at the stern (about 1/32") because I noticed that I had a dip appearing. The second strake is then glued in the same way: gluing on 4 to 5 bulkheads at a time. It should be noted that at the bow, the strip has been preformed by folding it after having moistened it and using a heat source to keep its shape. I then remove the reference batten strip and don't encounter any problems. The plasticized sheet and the varnish fulfill their role perfectly. I just had a little varnish that remained stuck on some bulkheads by the excess of glue. But this can be removed without any problem. The batten strip could be removed without any problem. I will now glue the first layer of the molding strip.

Great start. It brings back great memories.This kit is really a little marvel! One never regrets to build a model from Syren. I am delighted to follow this build.

Great work and another fantastic post always so detailed and informative. Thanks

Sorry to hear this sad news. My heart goes out to you in this time of sorrow.

What a fabulous model! What a pleasure to have given us the chance to admire this fantastic ship! We hope to be able to follow your next project.

Absolutely fantastic! Do you make your own ropes? And if so, what material do you use?

Thank you to all the 'Likes'. With the installation of the square tuck and the two filer pieces, I finish the construction phase on the skeleton of the model. A few more sanding touches and I will be able to start planking the hull. A copy of the square tuck template is glued on a piece of cardboard that will allow the piece to be cut from a 1/32" thick sheet of Yellow Alaskan Cedar. Once the piece is glued, the space at the back is filled with different pieces of Alaskan Cedar and then sanded. Time to start planking the hull.

What a great job! This cross section is really beautiful!

Thank you Captain Hook and Glenn for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'. This week I've been working on framing the stern. Once again, the concept is really perfect and everything has been thought out so that the assembly is done in a simple and precise way. For fairing the outboard sides, I used the method described by Rustyj in his excellent build log. I'm lucky to be able to rely on many build logs and to be able to reuse the tips and tricks found there 😁. So I glued a piece of pencil lead to the end of a trip of wood and I was able to trace the future shape of the stern. A first roughing was done with my Proxxon rotary tool then I finished the shaping with sandpaper glued on different pieces of wood. The two stern ports are then framed. I first determined the position of the port sills and lintels using a photocopy of the stern framing. The installation of the two stern ports pushed me to think of a system to facilitate its assembly. Indeed, port sills and lintels must follow the ship's waterline. So I decided to build myself a small jig to facilitate their poses. So I drew the waterline on the plan and measured the distance from the top of the bulkhead to the bottom of the sill, measurements were taken for bulkheads 14 and 4. I then cut two pieces of wood whose height corresponds to my measurements. They were joined together and wooden strips that will pass through the x and y frames were glued. These two strips are glued so that they are just 3/32" below the marks established using my template. (3/32" being the thickness of the wood pieces used for port sills and lintels) I also added on each side a thin wooden stick (about the thickness of a sheet of paper) to give the second angle to the port sills. Then all that's left to do is to glue the port sill on my jig. For the lintels, a piece of wood the height of the stern port was simply placed on the sill and used as a support for positioning. The pieces were then sanded at the back. Next step : the square tuck and always so much fun.

Be careful to use the good system ! The old French (Ancien Régime) inch equal 2,707 cm The British inch is equal to 2,54 cm The Ancre monograph refers to the old French inch The table of conversion that you reproduced in your message seems to refer to the French system : 1 French inch (27,07 mm) divided by 48 gives 0,56 but the British inch (25,4 mm) divided by 48 gives 0,529 mm As indicated by druxey, the ship was built using British feet and inches. You need to find a conversion table for the English system.

Thank you to all the 'Likes' The port sills I added the gunport sills.In order to be sure that the positioning is the same on both port and starboard, I replaced a temporary batten on the opposite side so that I could position the port sills well level. The port sills are cut from a 1/4" x 1/4" alaskan yellow cedar. The port uprights have been cut to different thicknesses from a 1/4" sheet of yellow alaskan cedar using my Byrnes table saw, , measurements were carefully taken from the plan. The sanding was first done roughly with my Proxxon OZI/E delta sander and then finished by hand with different grains of sandpaper. Hell and damnation! I discover with amazement that on the starboard side the positioning of the upright port of the first gunport at the bow is slightly too inside and that once the sanding is finished, the bottom of the piece is too inside a few tenths of a millimeter... There are three possibilities: the first is to remove the part and replace it with a new one that will be positioned correctly. But I'm too afraid to break the bulkhead knowing that Titebond glue is a super glue! Second option: vertically cut the piece and replace only the front part. But I'm afraid to mark the piece horizontally and finally have to start the gunport sill all over again. Finally, I opt for a repair of the missing part. I still have to find the right product to use... Then I remember one of the properties of the putty which is not to adhere to the plastic. So I make a 'formwork' using a piece of plastic packaging (transparent plastic, the one that wraps for example chocolate boxes or other foodstuffs) glued with double-sided tape on one side of a wooden piece. This piece is then fixed with a clamp on the side to be filled. My 'formwork' will allow me to obtain a completely smooth and level inner face. Once the putty hardens, the scrap wood ('formwork') can be removed without causing any damage because the plastic will have prevented the putty from sticking to the 'formwork' and will have made a completely smooth and level surface. Naturally, this option could only be chosen because the repaired area will eventually be painted red and therefore the choice of a different material than wood is not important. Finally, once the work is finished on the different port sills, I realize that the two forward chase ports are not at the same level of detail as the others. At first, I thought that my cut was good but comparing the result with the other ports I decide to add port uprights. So I enlarge the 2 gunports by making two vertical cutouts of 1/16th and add the vertical pieces using the reference chase. My two forward chase ports are now identical to all other gunport sills. One last sanding with a very fine grit and I will be able to move to the stern. You may have noticed that I have started working on the two rooms. I'll talk about it again once the work is more advanced.

What a job! It's perfection! Just beautiful.

Superb work on this clinker planking. What a beautiful hull.

Thank you Gary for your words of encouragement and thank you to all the 'Likes'. I spent several hours cutting carefully bulkheads 8, 10 and 12. I must admit that using my Proxxon Delta sander OZI/E was really useful. Indeed, it can be equipped with an 8 or 4 mm saw blade. Fortunately, I didn't break anything and I could see that the positioning of the floors was quite precise. However, I had to add two fine fillers (0.3mm) on the floor between bukheads 12 and 14. Then I did a light sanding. The structure is really solid thanks to all the reinforcements I applied. A small test allows me to see that the necessary space is sufficient. I just have to build the interior layout... I also have to order the electrical equipment necessary for the future lighting of the two rooms. By chance scrubbyj427 is currently doing a remarkable lighting work on its Winchelsea frigate project and has given the references for the purchase of micro leds. Once again a great example of the interest of this forum 😀

Thank you to all the 'Likes'. The two forward chase ports were cut after determining their position on the filler pieces. The opening is slightly smaller than the final measurements. The openings are then sanded with sanding blocks manufactured to the correct dimensions. I will probably cover the wood with a thin coat of 'Gesso' before doing a final sanding with very fine sandpaper. But the next step will be to cut out the space that will house the two rooms.

Very nice work, Bob. This Duchess of Kingston is really a very beautiful model. I have a lot of interest in following its evolution.

Glad to see a new Cheerful under construction. I will follow this build with interest.

Superb work on these boom crutches. Well done.