GrandpaPhil
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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil
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Thank you very much! The external stores are painted and attached. The rest of the model is done. Once they dry, I will seal them. The first coat of gloss coat on the base is drying. I will probably put four or five coats on it to give it a good shine.
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Thank you all for the comments, the likes and just for stopping by! Yves, The model looks much shinier in person. It actually looks like metal. The Pulaski Hustler is almost done. I apologize for the condition of my work area, it is a disaster, but I’ve been busy. The decals are on, but a small bit of detail painting remains on the aircraft itself, as well as some touch ups. The underwing nukes still need painted. The base needs gloss coated. The entire plane needs sealed so the decals don’t peel off later and the paint is protected.
- 58 replies
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I think the paintwork on the plane itself is mostly finished. I still need to paint the external armament and apply decals.
- 58 replies
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Faux metallics didn’t go so well. I ended up using Ceramcoat platinum paint. It looks good. I am happy with it. Once it dries well, I will detail it.
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Thank you, OC. The first attempt at using faux metallics failed. The model is too large, and too bright, to use the same technique that I would on say, a knight. However, I never did know when to give up: The model is currently a medium gray. I am going to attempt to use dry brushing to create a brushed metal finish on the model.
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Step 2 of faux metallics is to dry brush a dark dark gray: The faux metallic effect is created with contrast. Now to create that contrast.
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Denis, There were two layers of plastic for me to drill through, so I just drilled at an angle. The top of the dowel rod is sitting against the top of the fuselage. The first step in painting the Hustler is to prime it black: Regardless of whether I use faux metallics or just use metallics, I need the black base to give the model depth. I am pleased with how the seams came out. They pretty much disappeared.
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The Hustler was designed to move fast (Mach 2), outrunning Soviet interceptors and then hit the Soviets hard, preferably in multiple locations (one target good, 5 targets better), from high altitude. The Air Force decommissioned it in the late ‘60s because the USSR came out with high speed and high altitude surface to air missiles and the survivability of the Hustler came into question. Also, the Hustler was incredibly expensive to maintain and operate.
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Very true. Interesting story behind this ship. The Royal Navy hated it.
- 355 replies
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- prince de neufchatel
- schooner
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The engines, the bomb racks and the centerline nuke are all attached. Once they dry, I’ll trim and fill all gaps. The. It will be time to paint. I have been slowly painting the four B-43 nuclear bombs that go on the underwing racks I’ll attempt to use faux metallics for the brushed metal look which makes up the lion’s share of the plane, first. If that fails, then I will use metallics.
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Canopy’s on and all gaps are filled. I had to make a replacement piece for one that came up missing. I’m sure I’ll find it next week.
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The model sits very nicely on the flight stand I made it. Yes, I used a full size electric drill on a plastic model plane, lol.
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The main body of the plane is assembled. As with any large plastic model, there were some fit and alignment issues. The gap between the tail and fuselage is intentional to allow the tail to align properly with the bomb racks and the delta wing. It will be filled later, prior to final assembly and painting.
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Thank you, OC. The bang seat is actually an escape pod to enable ejection at supersonic speed. The canopy has a shield that comes down and encapsulates the pilot. Very neat setup.
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The ejection seat and flight deck are now mostly painted. I primed black and basecoated a haze gray: I washed with black and rebasecoated gray on the flight deck. After the rebasecoating: I mixed my own orange for the ejection seat: Then detailed it: It now just needs installed after I highlight everything to bring out the gauges and other detail.
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The interior of the B-58 is more colorful than I thought. I had guessed dark gray and black, however the seat itself is an orange and cream color and the cockpit itself is a lighter gray with black gauges and trim. The picture is courtesy of the National Air Force Museum. It will be fun to paint.
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Thank you very much! I am making a stand. I have an old plaque that I got at a yard sale.
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I built up the main landing gear bay doors from basswood that I carved to shape. There are three pieces on each side. I carved a piece to fill the main gap first: Then I filled in the gap where the main gear would go: Lastly, I made a piece to replace the ridge on each side: This modification took about an hour total. I am going to mount this model on a flight stand when it is done.
- 58 replies
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I modded the tail fins to make the bombs look more like the B-43 nuclear bombs that they are supposed to represent. One of the fun side effects of my recent builds is that I am not afraid to just start cutting. It may not come out perfect, but it will get done. I used to be terrified to modify a kit too much, so this is significant for me. I have learned a lot from this site.
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This is a good kit for revisiting the past. I had the Lindberg version that I started with my Dad, but never finished. All gaps on the minor sub-assemblies are now filled and trimmed. The cockpit is assembled and just needs painted now. The control stick is also now glued in the correct position. I discovered that the main landing gear doors are not designed to be shown closed and will not fit in that position so I am making replacement plugs that I will carve to shape. So far, this has been a very fun build.
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BUYING A "PAINT SET"
GrandpaPhil replied to MadDogMcQ's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I personally like the Delta Ceramcoat line of craft paint. I use it for everything from miniatures to my ship models. They work beautifully for me and usually run about $1.35 at Hobby Lobby in the US. The only drawback is that the paintwork should be sealed after painting for long term durability. -
A bunch of glued together sub-assemblies: The next time I work on it, I’ll start filling gaps and assemble the flight deck.
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Thank you all! This kit is going to be fun! Here is the test fit: I am going to display it in flight, much like my P-61. I’ll mount it on a wood plaque with a dowel rod. Here is gluing started: I am not following the build order, but I am going to display the model with the gears up. So, I am currently working on all major sub-assemblies. I am waiting on the interior windows to dry right now.
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Sometimes you just have to build a plastic model. They are quick, fun and the possibilities are endless. I bought this kit off a friend of mine a couple days ago when he said that he was selling it. It was too good an opportunity to pass up. I love 1/48 aircraft. It is a good compromise scale, much like 1/72 for period ship models. Even larger aircraft can be built at a reasonable size. To get started, here is the box: And what comes in the box: This kit is huge and will be much fun. The only trick will be the finish. It looks like bare metal. I am debating on using metallics or faux metallics. In all reality I will probably try to pull off the faux metallics first. I have had really good luck with that on previous models, such as my Delorean from Back To The Future.
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