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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. That yellow ochre will offset the black striping and the brown quite nicely once it is all in place: It will be across the gun-ports, too.
  2. Thank you all very much for the comments, the likes and just for stopping by! I am using the Matthew Baker drawing kindly provided by @Louie da fly for my basic color scheme: To that effect, I primed black and painted in the lower hull: The waterline is marked. I have a waterline marker that I bought from Model Expo back in 2014 or 2017. I replaced the pencil with a black colored pencil this time, and marked it directly on the paint. It worked well. Now to paint in the ochre strip between the two lower sets of wales. Then to tape and paint the dark brown below the lower wales. Lastly, I will touch up as needed.
  3. That’s a personal choice. I personally like to display all sails as being fully raised and set.
  4. The stern is trimmed and the stern post is installed: The rudder is ready to paint: I now have a hull to work with. Getting to that point is the single most difficult part of building a model ship, for me.
  5. The port side is planked up to the middle wales: Once all glue dries, I’ll trim everything that needs trimmed, fill all gaps, add the stern post and then seal and paint up to the middle wales. Next, will be the rudder, to include the tiller. After that I’ll outfit the gundeck and then seal it in with the main deck. Due to the lack of visibility in the interior decks, I am not going to bother planking the inside of the bulwarks on the gundeck, I am just going to paint it.
  6. It’s a really good thing that I am going to be painting the hull of this model. I am not the best planker in the world. But, I know this, so I make up for it by ensuring that the hull will be well painted after I fill the gaps! Truth be told, I like making my models look like giant wargaming miniatures. I try to make them look as realistic and weather beaten as possible, so having to do some filling and painting is part and parcel to that goal. I built up a Mamoli Endeavour once and left it bare wood. Technically it came out just fine. But, I hate that model. It is my least favorite model that I have ever built. It looks too sterile and commercial.
  7. Have you thought about carving them? Those don’t look too bad to make. There is a really good introduction to carving tutorial and group build on this forum.
  8. This tutorial is directly responsible for the three scratch builds in my signature: It is an excellent tutorial. Professor Ab Hoving really breaks down and thoroughly explains/demonstrates the entire building process. My personal advice is to go for it!
  9. The stuff that you can do with the Word Art is pretty neat too: It took me a bit to figure it out, but once I did it turned out well.
  10. Copper plating will patina on its own, even under sealant. I sealed my last coppering with Delta Ceramcoat sealer. It worked really well for me. The copper got a really nice patina within a couple of years by just aging naturally.
  11. I like to generate lettering using word art in Microsoft Word. I make up what I want in Word, then I print, cut out the lettering and glue it down with PVA. I finish up by sealing the lettering.
  12. The starboard side is second planked up to the middle wales: There are still issues, but everything is going to be painted, so I will fill the gaps prior to sealing and painting.
  13. Working on the second planking: I am using actual drop planks and stealer planks for the first time ever.
  14. Thank you very much! It is wood grain contact paper that is intended for cabinets. It works quite well.
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