Dowmer

Solid silver eyes?  Why on earth would you do that?

Either way, nice work Paul. 👍

Paul, the mahogany frames really have a beautiful color.  It’s coming along nicely. 

Beautiful work. What kind of wood do you use for the blocks?

What happened?

I agree Chuck, the cedar has a bit more warm tone to it.  A real joy to work with. But due to its softness, box is a much better choice for the moldings and carving.  Lucky us that we can mix them since they are so close in color. 😁

Nice job Chuck,

Which brand and type of black paint are you using these days?  

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

really good example of this is shown below on this contemporary model.

 



Chuck, I’m glad you liked and used the pic I took of the Rodgers Collection Frigate. I took it specifically because I liked the planking and stealer in the bow. I guess it was worth while. Interesting note is the hawes holes. It looks like the builder used some lead to line the holes like the full size but you can see the lead sickness. 

The planking is looking great by the way. 👌

Absolutely fantastic work!

Paul,

I took some pics for you like you requested.  Posted on the Naval Academy ship photo thread I started.

Academy Ship Model link

6 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Dowmer,

It doesn't bleach out in light then some other woods?  

Mark,

I keep my models out of sunlight. But I assume it would bleach to some extent if exposed like any other wood. Like Chuck said, it really is a wonderful wood to work with. 

6 hours ago, amateur said:

Beautiful ship!

question: does the colour differences remain over time?

the socalled wallnut in the European kirs also show rather large colourvariations. These tend to disappear over time, as the wood changes colour due to the influence of sunlight. 

 

Jan 

Amateur,

I’ve been using Alaskan Yellow cedar in ship building for 20 years. It’s one of my favorite woods. It does tend to slightly change color as it ages into a warmer yellowish color. I use Tung Oil and keep the models out of daylight. 

Below is a ship built 20 years ago that I haven’t finished yet and has been stored away in a box all those years with no light. As you can see, the tone of the wood is still very yellow, but it has aged a bit and slightly darker.  But not too much. 😀

Rob,

I’m sure you probably tried this already, but the foot of the main course seems a bit too far forward compared to the fore course.  What if it was sheeted home a bit more. Would that help resolve the issue?  See pic below. 

Are there any pictures of the boat or similar ones of the time period to give you a better idea?

Congratulations and great work BE.  Quite a beautiful representation. I especially like the added touch of the coins.  I may steal that idea some day. 

Where did you acquire the 1:48 scale figures? I have found them difficult to procure.

Ah,  much better.  Looks good Mark

Mark, what kind of glue did you use?

Nice work Mark, the boat is coming along.

I noticed it looks like the swivel stanchions in the bow angle out.  Is that intentional?  It though they were cut to sit upright so the swivel mount was level.  Anyway, that is the way they look on Johanns model and the blueprints.

Sandy bay and Niki,

This thread hasn’t been updated in a long time. If you need info or reference on how to build this kit then one of the best references is probably from the maker of the kit (Chuck).  He details every step very well. Also, you can get great tips on planking by looking at his larger 1/2” scale version.

Enjoy

Heres a link to the longboat thread. Enjoy. Longboat LINK. 

Heres the 1/2” scale Longboat link.  1/2” scale Link

Mark,

in reference to the swivels, I too found it difficult to find specific reference to how they were mounted.  I have plenty of original info that they were used.  Especially for shore work, cutting out expeditions, boarding parties, native attacks etc.

I did find one blueprint in the NMM that appears to show a swivel mount.  Located centrally up forward.  I chose to model something similar on my 18th century longboat as fitted out on a merchantman in the 1790s during the PNW fur trade. I took into consideration that the weight of the swivels on the gunwale would have made the boat lean to one side or another unless they were balanced on both sides.  Another reason I mounted it centrally was to allow a clear sweep forward. Perhaps the pictures will give you some ideas how you will want to mount yours.  

BE, nice rope work.

Just a thought, but the location of the secured anchor on the starboard side completely defeats the purpose of the chase gun. The gun would have been trained as far forward as possible to get a shot. That is impossible with the anchor stock in that location close up against the stbd port. 

Although cramped, when cleared for action the boat was towed behind which freed up the deck space anyway. 

BE,

I think you are on the right track. I like the size of cable you used rather than the heavier 1.9mm.

It seems that Goodwin used the 200 ton Sloop figures for Alert.  However, Sloop could be a three masted non-rate ship as well as a single masted ship depending on definition.   I think the quarters are just that.  So 10ctw 2 qtr would e 10.5 cwt I believe.  Either way, the Syren anchors are hard to beat.

Vossiewulf just finished securing his anchors to timber heads in his build of Lady Nelson if that gives you any ideas for how you want to proceed.  

Fair winds 😃

Rob,

I'm sure you have this photo and I think it is after she was rebuilt, but I was looking at the yards and you can barely make out the Stuns’l booms.  It looks like they are on top of the upper tops’l yards, angled forward a bit, and hanging below on the main courses that are braced around.  Interesting anyhow.

Alan,

Nice tutorial.  I commend you on use the garden bamboo.  However, if you wish a simpler route next time, I like to use bamboo skewers for the grocery store.  Only a couple dollars a bag and they will last you for a long time.  They usually have a variation of color.  I prefer the darker colored skewers for lighter woods and lighter for darker woods etc.  I’ll clamp an xacto blade in a vise, wear some gloves and pull the skewer through the blade to break them down into smaller diameters.  Due to the longwise grain they split very easy.  Then proceed as you have done.

Either way, the result is the same.  Well done 👍 

Marsalv, excellent joinery. What kind of wood is it and how did you manage to make a thick piece of wood bend around the bow like that?