Dowmer

Rob, you have to keep the home fires burning. Sounds like you are taking good care of here. We will be waiting patiently for your GR updates. Have a great Xmas recharge. 

Chuck, time and again you have tried to replicate the original model.  Why not do that here? I like the slate colored roof of the original and is probably period correct.

Frank, 

They rigged tackles from the yard arms and stays that facilitated getting the boats or cargo over the side.

8 hours ago, archjofo said:

Hi Bob,

Thank you very much for pointing out this tiny detail.
Since the hooks are very small, it will be very difficult to do it properly.

So I do not know yet if I'll do it.

Johann,

Seeing your fine execution of details, I have no doubt you could replicate the mousing. I was noticing the same thing, but Bob was quicker to comment. 
 

Below is my amateurish and feeble attempt at the same scale on a long boat.  I’m sure yours would be much better. 
 

cheers

Joe, one of the things I’ve found that helps me with “cutting” moldings is if you are scraping a 1/16” molding to cut a 1/16” slot into the scraper first.  That will channel the strip consistently, then cut the profile into the bottom of the slot.  The depth of the slot you cut obviously controls the depth of the profile.  I hope that helps.

I typically use an Exacto blade for the scraper.  I can then fit it into a handle to use.  For cutting I use a thin abrasive cutting wheel in the Dremel then finish with fine Swiss files if needed. There are many ways of accomplishing the task, this is the one that works for me.

Here’s a pic of one I used many years ago.

Mike, one of the questions I always had was, “Do the mouldings sit on top of the planking or do they sit on the frames like the planking?”  I’ve seen various contemporary cross sections and they either don’t specify or show them sitting on the frames.

thanks

59 minutes ago, AON said:

Cog

Mark

First the cat?🤐

 

LOL, I was thinking the same thing......was that in a particular order?

as afar as the mounting suggestion, I’ll throw my hat into the same ring on captive bolts with threaded rod for mounting.  Looking nice Alan.

cheers

Nicely done!

Chuck, have you tried Tung oil on the AYC?  I used it and love the warm yellow color.

Chuck, I’m sure you’ve answered this before but what do you use for fairing the inboard timbers.  Dremel for large removal areas, files, sanding sticks?  I know there are lots of different ways but I’d be interested in your technique to get consistent and smooth curves and thickness etc.

thanks

Mark, sorry to hear about your situation. I wish you the best.  Like everyone else has said before, we will be here when you are ready. 

Thanks for being so open to other possibilities Chuck.  I guess it’s a preference thing.  I prefer the straight on look but it’s good to know it’s so easily remedied. 

BTW, I like the iPhone photos.  Pretty good color and saturation,  but then I’m not there to see the real colors.  Beautiful anyway. 👍

26 minutes ago, Chuck said:

I also think they do this on some contemporary models because they are most readily viewed from the side and by turning the head slightly, you can see the face detail better as models are usually displayed.  On one side anyway.

 

Actually, someone else mentioned it before.  I only agreed.  However, that is water under the proverbial bridge.

I agree with your statement above and probably explains the head turn the best.  It is what it is.  Either way, it’s a beautiful model and I’m amazed at the quality which far exceeds anything else on the market.  So Kudos and keep up the quality and offerings for us meager followers. 😀

Very nice Chuck and Mike.  You guys really know how to build an outstanding model.

Chuck, the figurehead looks great and the resin casting is a pretty darn good match.  One thing keeps bothering me however.  The head of the figure is turned fairly hard to starboard, as if it’s looking at something on that side.  Most figureheads Ive ever seen are looking forward.  As if they are clearing the way for the ship or looking at the horizon.  In one of your original contemporary pictures of the Winnie the head might have a slight angle but nothing as pronounced as this.  It just looks a bit weird with the figure looking to the side like that.  Just my .02 cents.  Still beautiful work but since you have been so meticulous with every other detail I just wanted to point it out.

Solid silver eyes?  Why on earth would you do that?

Either way, nice work Paul. 👍

Paul, the mahogany frames really have a beautiful color.  It’s coming along nicely. 

Beautiful work. What kind of wood do you use for the blocks?

What happened?

I agree Chuck, the cedar has a bit more warm tone to it.  A real joy to work with. But due to its softness, box is a much better choice for the moldings and carving.  Lucky us that we can mix them since they are so close in color. 😁

Nice job Chuck,

Which brand and type of black paint are you using these days?  

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

really good example of this is shown below on this contemporary model.

 



Chuck, I’m glad you liked and used the pic I took of the Rodgers Collection Frigate. I took it specifically because I liked the planking and stealer in the bow. I guess it was worth while. Interesting note is the hawes holes. It looks like the builder used some lead to line the holes like the full size but you can see the lead sickness. 

The planking is looking great by the way. 👌

Absolutely fantastic work!

Paul,

I took some pics for you like you requested.  Posted on the Naval Academy ship photo thread I started.

Academy Ship Model link

6 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Dowmer,

It doesn't bleach out in light then some other woods?  

Mark,

I keep my models out of sunlight. But I assume it would bleach to some extent if exposed like any other wood. Like Chuck said, it really is a wonderful wood to work with. 

6 hours ago, amateur said:

Beautiful ship!

question: does the colour differences remain over time?

the socalled wallnut in the European kirs also show rather large colourvariations. These tend to disappear over time, as the wood changes colour due to the influence of sunlight. 

 

Jan 

Amateur,

I’ve been using Alaskan Yellow cedar in ship building for 20 years. It’s one of my favorite woods. It does tend to slightly change color as it ages into a warmer yellowish color. I use Tung Oil and keep the models out of daylight. 

Below is a ship built 20 years ago that I haven’t finished yet and has been stored away in a box all those years with no light. As you can see, the tone of the wood is still very yellow, but it has aged a bit and slightly darker.  But not too much. 😀