src
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What is a good wood for making scale masts? The mast material that came with my Enterprise isnt as straight as I would like and I cut a piece off some time back to fit my bowsprit and 'The cat ate it"Now I may not have enough. Anyway I am considering boxwood, I know I need straight and fine grained, is there a better material? I will most likely go with square stock so I can build up my masts and yards based on "Fully Framed IV" and "Masting and Rigging" Thanks in advance for any advice. Sam
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Mark, Dan, thats not sawdust, those are little tiny granules of Retirement Induced Contentment and Happiness! Your R.I.C.H! And now a question. Are each of your frames made of two layers with the joins off set or one layer with half lapped joints? I enlarged the photo and for the life of me I cant tell. Sam
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Rich, Yea I am not sure as to how common that was. Most of the pictures/drawings I see show them either run in/out or with the muzzle against the bullworks. I have seen a couple of drawings showing a lashing with the carriage sideways like I have in the lower picture. On a smaller ship like the Enterprise I suspect that there may have been times when they were lashed sideways but I have no proof. Such as times when there was little likely hood of combat. When I look at how much deck space is taken up with the guns run in and lashed it seems like an awful lot of deck space taken up. Then again, I am probably using 21st century values. Either way I will be lashing the two forward most carriages that way just to hide the mess I made out of my deck when I moved the bits from the deck to the cap rail.As far as the rest, a bit of research and then a game time decision. Its gonna be weeks before I get to that point so I am not worried about it at the moment. Sam
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Steve, I agree with the others, she looks great! For your contrasting wale, maybe something lighter? Sam
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Hmmmm.. I think the first error is buying the kit, the second is starting, but the biggest sin would be giving up. Not that I think you have any intention of that. You recover well from your (mis)adventures, I've no doubt this will be the same. Sam
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Just a quick update. I have assembled all my carriages to a certain point. Still ned to make the Bolsters, Quoins and trucks as well as all the metal work. I am thinking of displaying with an unconventional arrangement with the carriages lashed sideways, at least the two front carriages. That will hide my oops from earlier. I need t do some research and see how common this was. Sam
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Sjors, what model saw is that? I would love to have a small compound miter saw like that, Iwasnt aware there was one available Sam
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Steve, Sorry to hear about your staining misadventure, thats frustrating. Your new planking looks good though, even the joggled ends. Sam
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Rich, How are your carving skills? Even a so-so carved eagle will look better than the P.E. part they gave you.
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Rich, Planking looks good. Two planks a day sounds familiar. Sam
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Sjors, A compound miter is a miter in two planes; both a bevel and a miter. Think of the miter needed to install crown molding or the miter you need on your planking at the stem. You need an angle to match where the plank meets the stem but there is a second angle running towards the inner portion of the ship. Am I explaining this ok? I can see it in my head but never had to describe one. Here is a picture of one, maybe that will help. Sam
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Sjors, Nice!! Will that chop saw do a compound miter?? Sam
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Rich, Great job. You would think I could do something like what you described , in my head that's exactly how I would approach it. I don't recall what it was I was doing, but it didn't work for me so that's when I did the M&T joint. That's the great thing about hobbies like this, doesn't matter how you get there, it's the end result that matters. Sam
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Rich, I did basically the same as dgbot and augie, with the addition of a mortise chopped into the hull. Most people recommended to use a couple of brass pin like you did on your channels. I questioned my ability to get all those holes drilled accurately enough to keep everything lined up and even. The mortise and tenon gave me strength and the ability to screw things up slowly rather that quickly. Watching your build I am confident whatever method you choose you'll do just fine. Sam
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Rich, welcome Home! Sam
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Its a good job Vivian! Well worth the wait. Sam
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Slog, J, thank you so much! I agree, its great seeing others progress, it helps keep the enthusiasm up. Sam
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Sjors, Now I see the difference! Subtle but nice. Sam
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Rich, When I made the chain plates for my Enterprise I started with a bunch of rings made from wrapping wire around a drill bit the correct diameter, that gave me consistent ring sizes, then it was just a matter of shaping the pre soldered rings. That kept everything consistent. I would imagine the more experienced builders out there can find flaws with my chain plates, but I am generally pleased with them. Sam
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Sjors, What am I missing? It looks the same to my inexperienced eyes? Sam
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Am I understanding correctly, you want to make round wire flat? I would say either heat it and pound it flat with a hammer or smooth jawed pliers. Home depot or Lows should have something. If you want a nice pair try a parallel jaw plier at a jewelry supply house. There are plenty online, my favorite is http://www.ottofrei.com/home.php. Just look up parallel pliers. Now if you want to make your own chain plates its not as hard as it seems, just time consuming. There are a couple of good topics in the forums in the metal working section. Sam
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Thanks Rich, I am plodding along here. a couple of carriages a day. Hope to have something to show for my troubles in a day or two (or five ) Sam
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Wow! She's gonna be a big girl! Do you have room in your bathtub for her? Really enjoying watching this come together, its the first card model I have followed from the start. Sam
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