stuglo

just found your blog. Different, interesting and your execution is top class. 

STOP !STOP! STOP ! you keep showing kits that I MUST have. This looks incredibly good and (sorry) wood is far better to work with than plastic. My wish list is growing in inverse proportion to my modelling life expectancy but this will near the top of that list. The variety of content will be a worthwhile challenge and the price mentioned seems reasonable compared to other kits (eg my Amerigo Vespucci). Please keep us updated.

Re : the hobbyzone slip. It looks good but I bought a fair-a-frame from model expo and I found it inadequate. This looks much better -would you or others still recommend it (shipping costs will double the price ) ?

Good work. This was a fun build for me -different from the usual ships of war. I had the privilege of visiting her during the build which made for even greater satisfaction.  

Some very good ideas, but can someone advise how to keep my workbenches tidy and clutter free. I work in a spare bedroom and am spoiled with a total 10 metre length of benches where I can put my hand to almost everything but only tidy away between builds. I then waste time trying to find tools that I have "put away" in a drawer or cupboard. My wife cannot understand this- can someone help?

very interesting. The milling "thing" is good but as I acquired my first machine (proxxon) a few months ago and have no experience, could you kindly explain again , simply and detailed, how you used it. (If anyone has can recommend any sites I can learn from, it would be much appreciated.)

Just reopened a Floquil pot after more than 15 YEARS. A little thinner and its perfect. Infinitely better than ORDINARY acrylics. Manufacture stopped about 5 years ago but a quick  look on the net shows still available at reasonable price. Get it while you can.

6 hours ago, shipman said:

Can I operate a Unimat lathe with a sewing machine foot control? If so, how to wire it in? Just fit it in line with the power cord? Advice appreciated, thank you.

Did this last year  and it works fine . Simply have wire and plug socket going out and wire and plug going in, interposed between unimat plug and power source-wall plug. it can then be removed simply if  not wanted at any particular time. By the way, for the  same unimat, I bought a dimmer switch to reduce revs.

This is yet another beautiful build of an unusual kit. I feel that I almost must stop looking at these blogs because my wish list is extending beyond my life expectancy. They are however addictive and things of wonder. I must learn to balance my reading with actual building . I'm already restricted by the bosun from using power tools in the middle of the night, and now she objects to the commuter screen in the early hours. 

Another masterclass

Well done. Newbie or not, good work and attitude. Just keep at it.

I've had this on my wish list for many years. Seeing your magnificent build  has really wet my appetite.

May I make a further suggestion for threading rigging-GUM® Eez-Thru® Floss Threaders. Very useful and cheap

Just seen this thread and the associated videos on Utube. What a fantastic starting build for newbies or others. For price, interest (see the film series) , and likelihood of completion and satisfaction, to be recommended.

Perhaps too obvious but never actually seen it on site. After 30 years using static (photo 1) inspired during night to try this (photo2) . It works !!!!

brilliant

Forgive my "pennyworth" but I think that though there is much truth in what has been written, I would emphasize certain things. the most important is the need for a mentor or at least a web site that can explain how to do and illustrate what others have done (learning from others). I like books and have several dozen on ships and model shipbuilding. Patience is essential, and,as in sports etc, the mental (research and "working it out in you head") often takes much longer than the actual building. Basic hand tools are good enough-  excepting the mini electric drill , power tools save time( but also can rapidly cause mistakes). Be prepared to devote YEARS to a build, but when choosing, find something that is relatively simple but an interesting subject. The quality of the kit, particularly the plans in a language you understand, is important. I would suggest a larger scale few or no guns and simple! rigging. Double planking allows for a learning process or curve and allows a botched effort to be hidden with the more satisfying second planking. I would personally avoid painting my first model as I think it is difficult to get a good result without the satisfaction and confidence that a successful first build brings. My first built was the Mare Nostrum. I would recommend it.  I chose for my second (because I thought it would be my last) the Corel Victory. I was lucky that I had 2 friends that chaperoned me, as well as good books, both specific and general. I am now on my 18th build, still feeling challenged but varying types and difficulties: aspiring to the great efforts seen on this and other sites. If as a newbie or old salt you hit a "rock", go rest, relax and the return refreshed and have fun. At the very least you will have something to show for your endeavor.

Excellent work. Thanks for the many helpful tips and inspiration

This is a masterclass. For oldies like me who have no ability/knowledge of CAD, does anyone know of a source/way of obtaining plans that have used this and can go straight to printing and applying to the wood?

I used the self adhesive copper tape on the Charles Morgan 1/2X1/4 in. with overlaps on all 4 sides -with I think, good results and no need for "dimples". The tape can be purchased in variety widths and colours. I used copper plates on the Diane and Agamemnon, more difficult ,gluing and cutting, but felt the larger scale needed it. It requires careful cleaning up to avoid patchy "ageing" . The Dane I left  to age by itself, the Aggie ( after much research) I decided to treat with urine applied carefully by brush. After 3 years the result looks the same (ps luckily MY urine because once I forgot not to lick the brush)

for very fine brushes, try the local beauty/cosmetic supply stores. Here at least they are very cheap, useful and for practical purposes as good as specialist modelling brushes at a fraction of the cost.

Amazingly good, truly professional work and so kind to share with us. An Inspiration.

learned something else. Thanks

just found your building log. Very impressive diligence and skill. Obviously a natural and I will keep an eye out so that I can learn from you as I do from many others on this site. Keep at it.

current - Hannah scratch build

As a man married for 45 years who built  a (plastic kit) Bentley on his honeymoon, may I suggest that the wife doesn't need to know the cost of a kit, just let her see the therapeutic effects of the building process.

I would go for the San Felipe,Panart. It was my 3rd build (after the the Corel Victory). The smaller boats are often more difficult and though cheaper, the materials are often inferior and difficult to work. Also, the preformed wooden parts are often more trouble due to their inaccuracies. The many blogs on this site for similar ships can guide you as well as the technical articles published.Also The Period Ship Handbook 3 by Keith Julier deals with this (I only bought the book after the build) The finished model is good on the eye and will teach you many techniques for use in subsequent builds. Not cheap, but in terms of hours of satisfaction, if not pleasure, its value for money. Power tools can wait, research, thought and asking for help will get you there. Good luck