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Mahuna

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Everything posted by Mahuna

  1. Mahuna
    Hi Dave - very nice pumps. Can you give us some details on how you built them? Frank
  2. Mahuna
    Hi Eitan: I'm looking forward to following your build log. Frank
  3. Mahuna
    Hi Jack Great start! I'll be following your build and I'm sure will learn a lot and will enjoy watching. Frank
  4. Mahuna
    Ed: Thanks for showing the steps. As usual for your work, it's a well-developed and repeatable process. Most of my work begins as trial and error before I get to a process I'm happy with. Frank
  5. Mahuna
    Hi Mike: I've seen some very nice lamps in Jeweler's Supply websites. I would think that a jeweler would need the kind of bright light that you're looking for. Frank
  6. Mahuna
    Hi Grant - I just came across your build log. Beautiful work. I'm partial to the commercial ships of the 1800's and will be following your progress. Frank
  7. Mahuna
    Hi Greg. I just found your log - beautiful work. I'll be following the rest of your build. Frank
  8. Mahuna
    The MS paints are REALLY thick. I would recommend diluting them - maybe 50-50 with water - and try to use multiple thin coats as recommended above. Frank
  9. Mahuna
    Looks like an interesting build. I'll be watching your journey - have fun! Frank
  10. Mahuna
    Hi Russ: Nice build - I enjoy working craft, and will be following along with the remainder of your build. Frank
  11. Mahuna
    Hi Dave - just found your build log - very nice work! I'll be following you. Frank
  12. Mahuna
    Hi Omega - this is my first time looking in and I'm very impressed with the fine work in such a small scale. I plan to follow the rest of the build. Frank
  13. Mahuna
    Thanks Ed! I was starting to go into YA withdrawal.
  14. Mahuna
    Ed - the beautiful work continues - I love it!! In the prior post you showed the short pieces of untrimmed waterway between the viewport frames, and these pieces have now been nicely trimmed, and short planking pieces installed above them. Can you give us a short explanation of how you trimmed those pieces in place without disturbing them? Frank
  15. Mahuna
    I have several different work areas in my shop, and generally try to get as much light on whatever I'm working on as possible. Consequently, I've placed task lights in several different locations. Even though they do provide a little better light, there are places I really need more light and can't get it (on the lathe or mill cutting tools, for example). In addition, many of the task lights I'm using generate a lot of heat, which can be troublesome here in Arizona - we have plenty of heat already! I recently found this magnetic task light at Lee Valley. It's powered by 3 AA batteries, so it can be easily moved around the shop. I've attached metal plates at key points - on the walls, on work surfaces, under shelves, etc. Now I can get plenty of light wherever I need it. Here's the link to the description of the light: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71189&cat=1,70596,43349,71189 Hope this helps someone see the light! Frank
  16. Mahuna
    Ed The precision continues to amaze me. I start my day by looking for your latest post, and it seems like I learn something new with each one. Thanks for sharing your work with us. Frank
  17. Mahuna
    This one is from the Dunbrody replica ship - the original was built in the 1840's.
  18. Mahuna
    Hi Pete This is a beautiful ship - thanks for sharing it with us. Your clean work gives me something to aspire to. Frank
  19. Mahuna
    Hi Rich: A paper cutter can be used to cut strips from thin brass or copper. The strip will curl, but can be straightened by putting one end in a vise and then pulling the other end while holding it in a pliers. The best solution is to buy strips in the size you need. Hobby stores usually stock a good selection of sizes, or you can find them online at the following link: http://www.specialshapes.com/flatbarsbrass.html Frank
  20. Mahuna
    I put a small amount of PVA glue in an old plastic bottle top, then I use a very small artist's brush to apply the glue - size 1 or smaller. I keep a jar of water by my side and rinse the brush after each application, so that the glue doesn't harden on the brush. The brush lets you spread the glue to a nice, even film. I generally apply the glue to both surfaces to be joined. When the remaining glue in the bottle top stiffens too much I discard the bottle top and grab another one. (We go through a lot of water bottles on a regular basis, and I save the tops - so I have a never-ending supply of glue containers). I've found the 4 oz Babe-Bot Glue Bottle be a great way to store glue and to dispense it in very small amounts (into my bottle cap). http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/babe-botgluebottle4oz.aspx Frank
  21. Mahuna
    Hi Paul: I'm enjoying your videos - please keep them coming! Frank
  22. Mahuna
    Thanks Jay - this is what I've been looking for.
  23. Mahuna
    I've been using rotary tools in carving for the last 15 years or so, much longer than I've been ship modeling. I have the big Foredom, which I use for fast wood removal, as in roughing out a carving, because they have very high torque. For detail work I use a micro-motor tool (mine is from Gesswein) that will spin up to 55,000 rpm. The Gessweins are pretty pricey, but you can get other brands for less (the trade-off is generally in speed - other brands averaging about 35,000 RPM). However, the other brands still cost much more than a Dremel would cost. The advantages are that you get higher speeds, most are reversible, and there's a much wider selection of bits available at 3/32 than at the Dremel's 1/8 shank. I would look at some woodcarving sites on the web to see what's available. I've found that the rotary carving tools do come in handy on some of the ship modeling work, and when used with a foot pedal are very easy to control. Hope this helps. Frank
  24. Mahuna
    Hi Jay I've been looking for longer end mills, similar to what you were using in post #37. Can you tell me where you found the longer end mills? Thanks! Frank
  25. Mahuna
    Ed - since you mention a book chapter, I hope you're thinking about publishing one. That would definitely be on my wish list. Frank

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