TK1
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TK1 reacted to GuntherMT in (Re)Introduction
Some good looking models you've made... welcome back to making sawdust!
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TK1 got a reaction from Rach10199 in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
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TK1 got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
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TK1 got a reaction from Duanelaker in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
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TK1 got a reaction from JoeHolden in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from mtaylor in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from Keith Black in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from Keithbrad80 in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from Clark Griswold in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from JeffT in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from ccoyle in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from VTHokiEE in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from bruce d in (Re)Introduction
Hi all,
Thought I'd say hello. I am returning to wooden model ships/boats after doing plastic kits for around 7 years... it was 2013 las time I posted here it seems, apart from a couple of posts in 2017 on plastic things. But time to get back to the good stuff!
I stopped when we renovated our house and I lost my workshop - I mainly scratch-built so didn't have space in the house for tools, so picked up a couple of plastic ships and that led down the path of plastic kits for the intervening years. Now in a new place with a lot more room, I've decided to get back to wooden models.
At this stage I'm starting back up with kits - I have started the Pinnace and next up is the Longboat both in 1/24 from Model Shipways. Very nice kits (thanks Chuck). But a few scratchbuilds planned in the future.
A few of my past builds pictured below for your amusement - 3 wooden ships (1/50 Schooner for Port Jackson from Modeller's Shipyard, and two scratchbuilds, 1/48 Sheer Vessel and 1/64 HM Brig Supply) plus a few more recent plastic ships and subs in 1/350. Other wooden boats are relegated to the shed for now.
Looking forward to learning more as always and contributing where I can.
Darren
Australia
-
TK1 got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Squaring Mini Drillpress to Work?
Hi,
One way I check my drill press is square is by bending a piece of wire or paperclip into a "Z" shape (but approximately 90 degree bends). Then with the drill press set up, insert one end into the collet and tighten.
You should have one end held in the jaws, a length coming out at approximately right angles to the centreline of the collet, and the other end pointing down to the table. Bend wire down so the tip is touching the table at some point
Then rotate the collet/drill by hand, and check the other end of the wire (pointing at the table) contacts the table all the way through a 360 degree rotation. If it does, then you're square. if not, adjust the angle of the drill so it does touch all the way around.
Remove wire and insert drill bit without upsetting the drill alignment, and you have it aligned at 90 degrees to the table.
Hope the above makes sense...if the wire touches all the way around, the cetral point of the wire (in the collet) will be at 90 degrees to the table.
Regards,
Darren
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TK1 got a reaction from Canute in Enamels vs. acrylics
Acrylics don't smell as much, are easier to clean up, and now offer a lot more variety of colours. I find them much easier to airbrush (thinned properly and using a retarder - and again smell less when sprayed). But generally harder to brush - need to be thinned right and again retarder helps slow drying time so you get a smoother surface. So where possible, I'll still paint details with enamels. Much better coverage and control for tiny parts. And they seem to finish better on wooden ships. So I use both depending on the situation. Still use the old Humbrol tins.
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TK1 got a reaction from Techsan in Enamels vs. acrylics
Acrylics don't smell as much, are easier to clean up, and now offer a lot more variety of colours. I find them much easier to airbrush (thinned properly and using a retarder - and again smell less when sprayed). But generally harder to brush - need to be thinned right and again retarder helps slow drying time so you get a smoother surface. So where possible, I'll still paint details with enamels. Much better coverage and control for tiny parts. And they seem to finish better on wooden ships. So I use both depending on the situation. Still use the old Humbrol tins.
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TK1 got a reaction from CDW in Revell Bismarck 1/350 upgrade sets
Hi Kevin,
I have the Pontos set and can't complain about it. It's made for the Revell kit and although I am yet to start it, all parts look excellent and well made/thought out. Can't wait to get into it after my current builds - one of which is the HMS Warspite with Pontos set, and it's excellent with good fit and really enhances the look.
I haven't heard a bad review on it - the only detraction I've read is that some of the parts are tiny, and need folding/joining, so it does need a steady hand and PE experience.
Worth having some PE tools too, I've picked up the PE benders and rollers from thesmallshop.com. and couldn't live
without them.
Regards,
Darren
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TK1 got a reaction from Canute in Revell Bismarck 1/350 upgrade sets
Hi Kevin,
I have the Pontos set and can't complain about it. It's made for the Revell kit and although I am yet to start it, all parts look excellent and well made/thought out. Can't wait to get into it after my current builds - one of which is the HMS Warspite with Pontos set, and it's excellent with good fit and really enhances the look.
I haven't heard a bad review on it - the only detraction I've read is that some of the parts are tiny, and need folding/joining, so it does need a steady hand and PE experience.
Worth having some PE tools too, I've picked up the PE benders and rollers from thesmallshop.com. and couldn't live
without them.
Regards,
Darren
-
TK1 got a reaction from WackoWolf in Revell Bismarck 1/350 upgrade sets
Hi Kevin,
I have the Pontos set and can't complain about it. It's made for the Revell kit and although I am yet to start it, all parts look excellent and well made/thought out. Can't wait to get into it after my current builds - one of which is the HMS Warspite with Pontos set, and it's excellent with good fit and really enhances the look.
I haven't heard a bad review on it - the only detraction I've read is that some of the parts are tiny, and need folding/joining, so it does need a steady hand and PE experience.
Worth having some PE tools too, I've picked up the PE benders and rollers from thesmallshop.com. and couldn't live
without them.
Regards,
Darren
-
TK1 got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Japanese saw
Hi,
Great purchase Per.
My 2 cents - I bought some many years ago and haven't picked up a western saw again. Absolute joy to use, and I tend to pick up one of these even before considering firing up the tablesaw or drop-saw for full-size wood projects. Cut through tough Aussie hardwood quickly and cleanly (So Meredith, doefinitely worthwhile for bigger stuff). I don't know anyone who's tried one and regretted it.
And for model ships, clean, straight cuts with little or no clean-up of the cut needed. And small ones are relatively well-priced.
Anja - the difference to Western saws is they cut on the pull stroke, so the blade can be a lot thinner (as it's not being forced through the wood from behind). Plus they have a different style of teeth, which also allows for a thinner kerf and fast, clean cut. The double-sided blade allows rough and fine cuts with one saw (although some are crosscut and ripping too). The curved/sharp tip allows plunge cuts.
Check out Japanese handplanes, clamps, chisels/carving and other tools too. Wonderful to use and own.
Sorry to ramble, just a big fan and happy to convert others
Regards,
Darren
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TK1 got a reaction from WackoWolf in Japanese saw
Hi,
Great purchase Per.
My 2 cents - I bought some many years ago and haven't picked up a western saw again. Absolute joy to use, and I tend to pick up one of these even before considering firing up the tablesaw or drop-saw for full-size wood projects. Cut through tough Aussie hardwood quickly and cleanly (So Meredith, doefinitely worthwhile for bigger stuff). I don't know anyone who's tried one and regretted it.
And for model ships, clean, straight cuts with little or no clean-up of the cut needed. And small ones are relatively well-priced.
Anja - the difference to Western saws is they cut on the pull stroke, so the blade can be a lot thinner (as it's not being forced through the wood from behind). Plus they have a different style of teeth, which also allows for a thinner kerf and fast, clean cut. The double-sided blade allows rough and fine cuts with one saw (although some are crosscut and ripping too). The curved/sharp tip allows plunge cuts.
Check out Japanese handplanes, clamps, chisels/carving and other tools too. Wonderful to use and own.
Sorry to ramble, just a big fan and happy to convert others
Regards,
Darren
-
TK1 got a reaction from JPett in Squaring Mini Drillpress to Work?
Hi,
One way I check my drill press is square is by bending a piece of wire or paperclip into a "Z" shape (but approximately 90 degree bends). Then with the drill press set up, insert one end into the collet and tighten.
You should have one end held in the jaws, a length coming out at approximately right angles to the centreline of the collet, and the other end pointing down to the table. Bend wire down so the tip is touching the table at some point
Then rotate the collet/drill by hand, and check the other end of the wire (pointing at the table) contacts the table all the way through a 360 degree rotation. If it does, then you're square. if not, adjust the angle of the drill so it does touch all the way around.
Remove wire and insert drill bit without upsetting the drill alignment, and you have it aligned at 90 degrees to the table.
Hope the above makes sense...if the wire touches all the way around, the cetral point of the wire (in the collet) will be at 90 degrees to the table.
Regards,
Darren
-
TK1 got a reaction from bhermann in Squaring Mini Drillpress to Work?
Hi,
One way I check my drill press is square is by bending a piece of wire or paperclip into a "Z" shape (but approximately 90 degree bends). Then with the drill press set up, insert one end into the collet and tighten.
You should have one end held in the jaws, a length coming out at approximately right angles to the centreline of the collet, and the other end pointing down to the table. Bend wire down so the tip is touching the table at some point
Then rotate the collet/drill by hand, and check the other end of the wire (pointing at the table) contacts the table all the way through a 360 degree rotation. If it does, then you're square. if not, adjust the angle of the drill so it does touch all the way around.
Remove wire and insert drill bit without upsetting the drill alignment, and you have it aligned at 90 degrees to the table.
Hope the above makes sense...if the wire touches all the way around, the cetral point of the wire (in the collet) will be at 90 degrees to the table.
Regards,
Darren
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