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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. realworkingsailor
    I've used Squadron putty.... be damned careful with that stuff. (Sorry mods, I think that point needs to be made without euphemisms). The solvent is toluene which has all sorts of nasty effects.... not the least of which is finding yourself inadvertently higher than a kite.... Always use it in a very well ventilated space (forced air), and wear a respirator. Tamiya also makes a good filler that's a lot safer to use and doesn't produce as many toxic odours. Andy
  2. realworkingsailor
    I think that's going to give more than a few people nightmares...
  3. realworkingsailor
    Hi Bill For a first model.. and since the Confederacy seems to be your favourite... why not try the Brig Syren first? A slightly smaller and simpler ship. Designed by the same person (our very own Chuck) so the kit goes together using much the same techniques. You may also wish to consider some of the Caldercraft or Amati offerings, like the cutters Sherbourne (CC) or Lady Nelson (Amati), both 1:64 In this hobby it often pays to start with smaller simpler vessels in the same interest range as the larger kits we often drool over. Since you're not putting out as much money, it's a lot less heartbreaking when things go south on you. But there's always everyone here to cheer you along and offer helpful advice and the like. Once you've got a kit or two under your belt, then go for that dream ship you've been wanting. All the experience and knowledge you've gained will really help you to make a model that will stand out. Hope that helps a bit. Andy
  4. realworkingsailor
    Funny.... Didn't see that gun jump too much though.....
  5. realworkingsailor
    It is an excellent kit. I can't wait to start my own. I think it's a worth while follow up to anyone who's built a Fly/Pegasus or Syren kit... or any other kit, for that matter... After seeing what you've done to your Pegasus.. I'd be amazed to see what you could to with a Confederacy.. Andy
  6. realworkingsailor
    Yeah.. and if I recall they only used pine wood as a target.... Scale that up to some real heavy oak timbers and a 24 pound shot and let's have that discussion again.....
  7. realworkingsailor
    I think there's only one way to solve this mystery.... We'll all have to chip in on a 12 pounder, build a replica of a ship's gun station, purchase a large quantity of shot and powder, and fire the bejeesus out of the thing until we get a definite answer. Or we could just call Mythbusters... Andy
  8. realworkingsailor
    Uh oh... Popeye's loosing his marbles....
  9. realworkingsailor
    I think I need to open a window and cool this place down..... A furnace has nothing on us... Anyway...
  10. realworkingsailor
    There's a chance they could also be ballast guns. It was common practice to take condemned guns, knock the trunnions off them and use them as ship's ballast. In the event of a wreck, if any salvage was attempted, they would have been ignored. Andy
  11. realworkingsailor
    Yeah.. I see that... We'll just have to pull the two tables together and really class up the joint...
  12. realworkingsailor
    Thanks guys. Another 30 more days or so and I should be ready to pick up where I left off... and dive into another, slightly different, project. Andy
  13. realworkingsailor
    Very nice..... But you can't defer planking for ever.... just like ratlines.... don't deny the inevitable (and that should be #1999) Andy
  14. realworkingsailor
    Unfortunately, once you've bonded two pieces of styrene together with plastic cement... There's nothing that will "dissolve" the joint. Both pieces are litterally welded together to become one. Andy (And that's my anti penultimate post as a "captain" )
  15. realworkingsailor
    As long as you continue to use the same ruler every time, the error should be constant... rather than random.... Still.... something for everyone to be aware of. Andy
  16. realworkingsailor
    Too much haste to get something posted before the crowd mutineed....
  17. realworkingsailor
    "Can I pee on this thing? Or is this thing gonna pee on me?"
  18. realworkingsailor
    For the sake of simplicity... It has to go to Dave... I think I missed the "jr" when I went for the photo... My bad... He still guessed the right ship, though not the one I intended... Andy
  19. realworkingsailor
    Always disassemble the airbrush when you clean. Especially the needle and nozzle. Dried paint will clog it up and is virtually impossible to get out at that point. If you have paint in the airbrush cup, dispose of it, wipe out the cup and cycle some thinner (or water if using acrylic) through the brush. Repeat until the spray is almost clear (check by spraying onto some paper towel). At this point, you can start to disassemble the air brush (of course turn the air off first). You should also look into getting some cleaning brushes to help scrub paint out of the harder to reach areas. Badger makes a set of very fine brushes that will penetrate the needle way almost to the nozzle. Andy
  20. realworkingsailor
    Xuron tools are top quality, probably some of the best. The price is higher for a reason. Andy
  21. realworkingsailor
    I'm getting way to much credit here.... Popeye did all the work....
  22. realworkingsailor
    Kevin, do you have a set of these? http://www.micromark.com/professional-sprue-cutter,9277.html They will help immensely. Andy
  23. realworkingsailor
    For sprue cutting: http://www.micromark.com/professional-sprue-cutter,9277.html These things work great. Always keep the flush side towards the part and you'll have minimal part cleanup Andy
  24. realworkingsailor
    Well, it's not the schoonmaker. But it is the Snyder. Still sailing today as the St. Mary's Challenger. The oldest continuously working laker currently. Andy
  25. realworkingsailor
    Wash and paint the pieces first. It may seem tedious, but it's worth it. As for a working cradle, I use one of these: http://www.bowser-trains.com/foamcradle.html Andy

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