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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. On the other hand, you're stating with a clean slate, so you'll know if you've missed something in the future. Andy
  2. Out of curiosity, will this one also become a book/series of books? Among many others, it seems, I am fascinated by your new endeavour, and I look forward to following your build. Andy
  3. I think Ben was only around 32 hours when he got to this stage..... why so slow?
  4. Very good for a first time job. It only gets better from here. Andy
  5. Maybe next time, try for the 1:96 version. Same basic ship, but slightly larger and more detailed. More options to try your hand at small subtle improvements. Don't worry about having everything perfect the first time.... I don't think anyone goes out and produces a masterpiece for their first ship. Good luck with finishing your build... And don't be afraid to post more photos... We're a bunch of photo addicts around here Andy
  6. Ok.. I see one issue you may wish to correct.. both your head sails are on upside down. The "bottom" in your pictures should be the side that's bent on to the stays. But again, I'd go with 0.012" or 0.015" wire painted black. Drill a #80 hole on the pin rail where the sheet is supposed to go, insert one end of the wire in the hole, bend the wire to meet the sail at the angle you want, trim to length to allow a small overlap in the clue of the sail, and secure both ends with a bit of CA (crazy glue). You can then touch up the bit of wire overlapping the sail with matching paint to hide it. As for your square sail, is your yard arm firmly (rigidly) attached to the mast? If so, I would glue the sail to it at the outward angle you most prefer., Otherwise use the wire method I just described. Andy
  7. I'd be careful about that... what he might catch could prove to be an 18 year long, spare room occupying, food eating, drain on the bank account.... And I think he's already done that once.........
  8. Steve, I'm pretty sure he's talking about the vacu-formed styrene sails you get with a plastic kit. But a good tip nonetheless. If you're working at 1:196, just paint the wire a dark brown or black, you won't notice the difference unless you routinely have your guests inspect your models with a magnifying glass. The leeward sheets on a working sail should be fairly straight, with little to no sag, you'd be ok to make the windward counterparts with line as they would be slack. Another alternative method you could try, heat a length of plastic sprue over a candle (gently, don't burn it), when it becomes soft, stretch the ends apart until the plastic reduces to a small enough diameter to simulate you size of rigging line. And thanks for the compliments on my log and paintwork. Andy
  9. Try making the sheets out of very fine stiff wire. That should allow you to "prop open" the sails a bit Andy
  10. Like I said, "more prevalent", not necessarily a golden rule. And I don't drink coffee Andy
  11. I'm feeling rather torn at the moment. Everytime I see photos of a Confed being build, I have a tremendous urge to start building mine the minute I get home..... but when I do eventually get there, I look at my Pegasus and reality sets in that I'm not finished her yet.... and I'm not letting myself give in until I get her done first..... In the mean time I keep looking at these tempting photos and ...well...... Andy
  12. I don't know if this is an accurate generalization or not, but it seems to me that single halyard gaffs are more prevalent on small boats, rather than full size ships, which tend to have both a throat and peak halyard. Andy
  13. Geez... with all that work you're putting in here, that poor Gothenborg must feel like the unloved older sister....
  14. Nice improvement! Can't wait to see how you tackle the rest of the head rails. Andy
  15. Hi Rich, I've been quietly following your saga, let me be the first here to say congratulations! Andy
  16. Nice first ship I would leave the parts on the plastic trees for painting. Makes a nice, safe handle to hold onto. You can do any touch-ups later after assembly. Andy
  17. I'm sure it's easy enough to measure off. Andy
  18. We finally get to see your work! As everyone else has said, there's no such thing as a "dumb" model. Another alternative paint is to go with acrylic. Polyscale is a great brand from Testors that they've discontinued, but there's still a fair supply on the market. You can clean up with water, and there's little to no smell. Either which way, I do recommend washing the kit parts in a mild dish soap solution. Let it dry thoroughly and apply a primer. I'm a personal fan of Tamiya spray primer, works with just about any type of paint, acrylic, enamel or lacquer. Looking forward to following your progress. Andy
  19. That's some tidy rigging. Very impressive. Keep up the good work Andy
  20. That might be for an iron ball..... Just picture a 12 pound wad of flaming cotton.....
  21. Dan, most likely the eye in the rope would be stretched a little and the deadeye hammered in with a mallet. The tension in the shrouds is adjusted with the deadeye lanyards, not the shroud seizings. Andy
  22. Paging Dr. Per! We have a patient who's not yet come to terms with his addiction.
  23. What's really sobering is that locomotive probably only had a working pressure of somewhere from 60 to 80 pounds of saturated steam. Later modern superheated locomotives, which carry have a working pressure of 150 - 275 pounds, where much more spectacular and incredibly deadly. Andy
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