Mirabell61

That is a remarkable model Denis. The details show both your craftsmanship and your ingenuity. They are wonderful. Since you never work on one at a time, there must be something besides the steamboat ready to go.
 
Bob

thanks Pat......the color is close........just couldn't get the speckles in there      I did the next to the last step.......putting them in place in the trays.   I got the effect I was looking for   


I put the scissors to the hair net........trimming here......trimming there......    I still need to make it a little smaller,  but this is fairly close to the shape of the net.  as I'm cutting it,  the net is sticking to me.........rough hands getting caught in the frays.

after cutting it down a bit more.........it was laid in place.   I can't really glue it,  so if this doesn't look right,  I can change it.    be honest now.....and let me know what you think.......

Hi Kees,
 
looks like a goo idea , and sound very promissing,.... I`m quite curious on the outcome...
 
 NIls

Hey Nils,
 
I plan to resemble the rivets with 3D pearle paint. This is thick paint solled in small bottles and is used for applying "pearls" to papercraft projects. I will thin it a little with some modge podge and then I will apply it with a toothpic or a piece of brass wire. The results are very good, nice rounded rivetheads and the bonding to the hull is very good.

Lovely stairs Denis,
 
I can imagine what it looks like with those period dressed figurines on them.....
 
Nils

Thanks for your answer Kees,
now I understand how you filled up the hollow spaces due to the overlappeing plastic strips. The result looks splendid. Are you intending to resemble the riveting, as you mentioned earlier with enbossed self adhesive foil.... 
 
Nils

Lovely stairs Denis,
 
I can imagine what it looks like with those period dressed figurines on them.....
 
Nils

Hi friends.
Production of the carriages and assembly of the cannons.
Karl
 
P A R T 16
 
 

 
 
 
 

....more on my unconventional way to make spiral stair cases.   the top step I added wasn't the best thing to do.......I ended cutting off most of it.  having the step level with the second level,  pushed the stair case away from the post.   tough to get a step up in this hobby.......I'll never get a raise this way   .....just thought I'd pun it up a little***   


I have a gap at the bottom........do I dare?!?!?!   why not!  there's nothing like a happy landing    while I play with this,  I'll show you something else......the hinges for the first level doors seems to be an oddity too.   I've seen them done in different ways......here's what I've derived from them.  the way that they are made,  suggests that they be folded over......the center part is to be wrapped around whatever is to be used as a hinge pin.   this makes the hinges double thick,  something I think is kinda weird.   I first thought about folding them over,  and then snip off the double part,  making the hinge thin and not as bulky.

it can be seen how the center part is thinned down......the holes are supposed to match the opposite part.   I stuck a piece of that steel rod in my vise, in order to accomplish the bending process.   but beware.........if you let go at an inopportune time,  the part gets catapulted into god knows where!   gentle pressure.....this way,  it falls to the floor {this is the road I took}.   just as much as a paint to locate them,  even though I pushed the mat under the table {it suppresses bounce}.

at this point,  they are crimped with the needle nose pliers.   the first couple,  the holes didn't line up........this was corrected by inserting a pin through the outer holes,  acting as a guide.    it didn't take long to bend them all......I found that I have two extra pieces......not a boon bonanza,  but if one is messed up,  there is a replacement.

see what I mean by them looking thick      this would have been the best time to trim them,  but I started to assemble them before I realized it.   maybe later.

this is what they will look like.......I will use CA when I get them set up.   I'll chase out the holes with a drill....then drill them again when they are in place on the model.  the brads are 10 mm,  I'm guessing.........I should use the ones I got from Billing's {they might be a tad thicker}.  I'll use 7 mm when I fill the holes.
    I also began plotting what to do about the metal doors and windows for the second level.......gonna scratch the doors from wood,  and make frames for the windows.   the first holes to fill on the second level will be gratings {on both sides}.   assembling the supplied grating from the kit is a no go......the darn thing looks too big.

holy visibility batman!   yea.....not my cup of sassafras tea.   I got out the grating kit I got from model shipways........had this darn thing for a while now.....I'll never order from the place I got it from again!  >thump!<  bad customer service.........>thump!<.....bad!.....BAD!!!.....>thump!<.....>thump!<    it would have been a good fit.......except that there wasn't enough to make both of them  

I then though of the grate material I made for the United States build {look into that build to see how I made them......insanity at it's best}.    "there,  there....little fella.......I don't like to use helmets either ."   so..........after cutting one of them to size {since I didn't have the sense to snap a picture of them},  it was fitted into position.

now.....I need to make a frame for it.   rather than muck it up by combining stain and paint....I'll just use paint.

.......once I trim it up,  of course      then I can make the other side.   I also set up another bow fender in the CORRECT template,  {this time}......I'll do the trim and fit today.   the last thing I did in this session,  was to add the outer railing to the stairs I was working on.  I figured it might safeguard the spindles from breakage.......still gotta cement one of them back on.  I left it off for fitting purposes.   with a little sanding,  it doesn't look half bad.   staining is out due to glue blotches.........still gonna be a pain to paint.

Lovely build Piet,
 
and a good paint job !
 
Nils

Nice work on the hull Bob,
looking forard to the next sequences....
 
Nils

Hi Patrick,
did you already contact the Palmer & Johnson Yachts yard for any helpful plans or drawings. I could imagine they would not be too restrict to get free promotion through a model builder`s work, who is also member of an international model building forum....
 
Nils

Fantastic Doris,
 
40 ships !..... how do you keep the dust off ?
 
Nils

Hello,
just a little update.
 

 

Good morning,
 
thank you Dave and Druxey for your efforts and all other for your likes.
I also have no picture from an admiralty model with these plates and Goodwin did't say anything about the time they where build. So I'm not wrong for building these plates not.

Hello again,
 
and thank you for your likes and comments. 
Hubac, now and then you see it in this forum. Also my Dragon has these staples. 
 
After sanding the whole forenoon, I think the lower hull is ready now. I should have started with the first drop plank at the 1. diminishing strake. But later you are always smarter  
The next thing to do is, I think the ruder. Then I know how large the opening in the lower counter must really be.
 
But because here the spring came from one day to the other, I think my garden needs my attention first. The week before Easter we had two snowstorms with each 10 cm snow here. More north they had over 50 cm! One of my oaks lost a big branch then, and the experts will come Friday to cut it out. But also for me is enow left.
 

 

 

It is very difficult to get a stern with so many golds to have such an elegant result.
Perfect Doris

Hello Doris,
the tiny sculptures are gorgeous.
The way you make them is unique and very artful.
I am deeply impressed.

So I went on with the next chapter and put the disappointment of the stain finish behind me.
Thanks for the compliment Jonathan.
Hi Alan, I am not sure what you mean by applying many layers of acrylic washes. I can't picture in my head what it would look like.
Here are some photo's on the progress on the stern.
I used a (very) simple way of adding a profile to the stern molding strips, which I showed in the last photo. It took a few attempts to get the screw tip in the middle of the channel, but once that was sorted, it went surprisingly well.
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 281 – Main Yard Rigging 2
 
The first picture shows the main yard ready for the next rigging steps.  The taut chain sling may be seen in this picture.
 

 
The topsail sheet chains are hanging from the cloverleaf sheet block under the center of the yard.  As described before, these chains are linked over the central pin within the block to allow them to pull down on the yard using the two tackles soon to be added.  This also permits the chains to hang somewhat slack under the yard on their way to the cheek blocks at the ends.  The two triple tackles for the sheets are shown rigged in the next picture.
 

 
The lower blocks of these tackles are hooked to deck eyebolts just forward of the mast and the falls are belayed on the topsail sheet bits using the long horizontal belaying pins.  The next items to be installed are the clue garnets with the main sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached to a single large shackle.  The next picture shows the prefabricated gear for one side.
 

 
 
The large line is the tack that was used to haul the weather side of the sail taut.  The smaller line is the lazy tack, used to control the sail as it was switched from tacks to sheets while the yard was being braced when the ship tacked.  The large block is the sheet block.  The sheet will be added later.   At this stage outboard rigging – mainly braces and lower course sheets – would be an obstacle to the work and subject to damage.  The smaller attached block is for the clue garnet.  The standing end of that line is shackled under the yard, passes through this block, back through one sheave of the quarter block and belays on the main fife rail. The hooked double block in the picture is a quarter block.  The second sheave on this block takes the fall of the reef tackle.  The next picture shows these lines rigged. 
 

 
The tacks are belayed on cleats on the bulwark rails and the lazy tacks to the first pins on the main pin rails.  These remain unglued so they may be adjusted when the sheets are added later.  In the next picture the topping lifts, buntlines, leechlines and reef tackle have been added. 
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of these lines.
 

 
The bunt and leech lines pass through single blocks hooked under the rim of the top, down through shroud fairleads and belay on the main pin rails.  The reef tackle falls pass under the yard, through the aft sheaves on the double quarter blocks, and belay on the fife rail below next to the clue garnets.  Next the bowlines.
 
 
 
Ed

Wow ! Javier,
 
what a detail in paint work, it looks outstanding !
 
Nils

Hi Patrick,
did you already contact the Palmer & Johnson Yachts yard for any helpful plans or drawings. I could imagine they would not be too restrict to get free promotion through a model builder`s work, who is also member of an international model building forum....
 
Nils

Wow ! Javier,
 
what a detail in paint work, it looks outstanding !
 
Nils

Hi.
I present the section of HMS Victory, at 1:98 scale, which I have finished.
I have started from the Corel kit, of which I have only used the piece that forms the helmet, although given the work required to adapt it, it would have been easier to have made the frames following the plans, or the books, that I used for its construction .
The woods used are walnut, cherry, and ebony.
The metallic parts are made of blued brass.
I leave photos of its construction.
I hope you like it.
A greeting.
 
(Hola.
Os presento la sección del HMS Victory, a escala 1:98, que he terminado.
He partido del kit de Corel, del que únicamente he utilizado la pieza que forma el casco, aunque dado el trabajo que requirió para adaptarla, hubiese sido mas fácil haber realizado las cuadernas siguiendo los planos, o los libros, que he utilizado para su construcción.
Las maderas utilizadas son nogal, cerezo, y ébano.
Las partes metálicas son de latón pavonado.
Os dejo fotos de su construcción. Espero que os guste.
Un saludo)

Thanks, Nils.
 
The first of the two Moliceiros is already painted. In my case the “paineis” do not carry a legend, because I have to admit that I am unable to write on that scale, so I have tried to simulate the "shadows" of a text, whose content I leave to the imagination of the observer .