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Kevin-the-lubber

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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber

  1. Kevin-the-lubber
    From here, Marc, there is so much going on around the stern that I doubt the issue will notice. It certainly doesn’t stand out in the photos.
  2. Kevin-the-lubber
    It is indeed. Daz downloaded, will play with it presently and pay attention to what you’ve all been saying on here.
  3. Kevin-the-lubber
    And knees, hips, ankles and all the other bits you broke or damaged while having fun in your youth! Give me naivete any day, I'd rather still believe I'm immortal and there is no way on earth I'm going to fall off THAT. Wisdom says I might....
  4. Kevin-the-lubber
    This is partly why I haven’t yet moved on to Rhino, because it’s seems surface based rather than the easier-for-me-to-get-my-head-around F360. That’s an excellent bit of figure modelling though - how long did that take to do?
  5. Kevin-the-lubber
    Via another thread, where I’ve whinged endlessly about the downsides of F360, I’ve been pointed towards Rhino3D. It’s not free but, as I could access an educational licence, it’s not too expensive and you buy rather than subscribe. (I hate this gravitation towards subscription for everything, but especially software). Apparently it’s the industry standard for shipbuilders and is very, very good. The only reason I haven’t done so is I couldn’t face another huge learning curve right now, but if you’re ready for that you might want to use the free trial opportunity which is good for three months. I’d balance this by saying I still have a lurking suspicion that the problems I encounter in F360 are somehow related to my PC; I built it a couple of years ago and deliberately went down the AMD route rather than Intel, and I think F360 doesn’t like AMD graphics cards. And also that, as I become more experienced in it’s use, I’m better able to avoid problems through better methodology. Otherwise, F360 is excellent.
  6. Kevin-the-lubber
    Now here’s a funny thing. I used to be a very keen climber and would cheerfully walk along a knife edge mountain ridge without the slightest worry. But these days it would scare the life out of me. But I will probably give this a go as and when I go back. Probably not very soon - unlike the Vic, there isn’t a tremendous amount of detail on the CS that I could carry across to and enhance a 1/96 model, other than the rigging, and for that I’ll probably tailor my ambitions to my abilities. Update-wise, I’m experimenting with a few different approaches to painting the bigger pieces on the deck, but work and home projects have been taking priority lately. Hopefully I’ll get some time this weekend and have something worth posting.
  7. Kevin-the-lubber
    Meshmixer, also free, fixes leaky stl’s, but I assume you all know this and it somehow doesn’t do what you want.
  8. Kevin-the-lubber
    Very beautiful work. When sculpting a figure for the Vic (in software) I almost lost the will to live, trying to get the proportions right and gave up in the end. You've done an amazing job here.
  9. Kevin-the-lubber
    I take it that the variance is too big to bodge with a bit of styrene to bridge the gap? Or a bit of both, slightly trim one side and build up the other, as T_corret suggests? And while it's a crazy idea, that there's no scope to flex the hull to bring it more in line (though you'd just be transferring the problem)? Re' my build log, not much to see over there right now. I don't want to photo-bomb yours (Oh but I'm down with the kids, know all the lingo) with what I've done since but, briefly, I used double-sided tape to join the decks, worked well, and repainted such that it's much closer to my lucky test piece. I doubt I'll post until I've finished the deck section as there really isn't much to show, but I have made some nice (in my eyes anyway) small tweaks to some bits and pieces after visiting the ship a couple of weeks ago. Wefalck, that's more advice that I'll store and experiment with. I love the inks though, as they also dry quick but go through a setting stage where if I catch the moment I can guide them close to what I'm trying for. But I emphasise I'm an absolute beginner at all this and still have mountains to learn. I think Marc's suggestion to varnish each layer will address your correct observation that subsequent layers result in a puddle of pigmented mess. As I've learned!
  10. Kevin-the-lubber
    Marc, thanks, I simply hadn't even thought of varnishing between coats and I think that'll be the thing to try. I was getting a fairly good (for me) first ink layer, then losing it with the next one. I have thought discovered that washing up liquid and a nail brush is very good for stripping off paint and ink! Keith, ditto thanks. I've used much the same approach on the CS deck MK2, which I'll post about on my log once I've got the 'teak' items finished. The deck wasnt at all hard to do, just time consuming and, for me, very much part of the learning journey. Mine has come out a bit darker than I was aiming for and not nearly as nice as Marcs' decks, but it'll do and I'll know next time to use a lighter range of colours..... and seal in layers as here again I've slightly lost position when washing with ink. All good fun though, and probably my favourite aspect of the build.
  11. Kevin-the-lubber
    You may well be right - it's hard to know without having the model in front of oneself, there probably is no 'standard' answer and, as you say, it's best to go with whatever best tricks the eye.
  12. Kevin-the-lubber
    Re' the problem you've set out; I think I would veer towards what you're proposing, exaggerate the curve. What's the difference at the top measurement-wise? I do agree with amateur that any material twist may be visually noticeable. I guess a factor for me would be whether there is furniture or better still a mizzen projecting out over the stern that would break the view into two halves and somewhat change the perspective. Another line of enquiry would be two arcs off the centreline rather than a single arc; exaggerated, to create a 'pointed' face with each side true to the centreline but slightly different to the other side. The one sure thing for me is that whatever I did I would stay true to the centreline, to avoid an optical impression of a twisted model.
  13. Kevin-the-lubber
    Nothing to do with my build but just thought I'd share that Greenwich is allowing people to book to climb up to the cross trees on the Cutty Sark this year, for about £50. I saw riggers working on it a couple of weeks ago, imagine this is what they were setting up. I'll probably do it if only to get a close-up look at the rigging up there!
  14. Kevin-the-lubber
    Marc, could I seek your advice please. For the Cutty Sark I want to paint the cabins so that I have a kind of varnished teak effect - how would you achieve that? What base colour and others would you use and how would you get an even finish with ink? I'm getting not too far off it using a light wood (kind of sand coloured) base layer, then dark brown ink followed by a yellow-orange ink, and while the colour is generally about right, I'm struggling to avoid the ink becoming a bit blotchy here and there. I find too that if I go back and re-wet the dried ink it just clumps up and spoils, so think whatever is the best way has to be done during the initial laying on.
  15. Kevin-the-lubber
    Same here for the rope decor on the vic stern, again in F360. It still drives me up the wall sometimes when it's uncooperative but it does have some very nice features and, of course, a wire rope like this takes a minute or two when you know how and can be finessed/revised later to your hearts content in a few moments.
  16. Kevin-the-lubber
    The weathering of the deck is lovely as well!
  17. Kevin-the-lubber
    More’s the pity there isn’t a reference file like this for the elegoo series, but I have found a good single setting alternative on the syratech site. I wasn’t even aware of such things so thanks for the tip, likewise the resin, I may try that one presently.
  18. Kevin-the-lubber
    Good stuff - can you tell us more about the reference file, I have very little hair left but would quite like to hang on to it 😬. That looks like the Syratech resin? I’ve discovered this week that either it or my baby printer (elegoo mars2) is way out dimensionally, but bigger rather than smaller.
  19. Kevin-the-lubber
    As you've previously said, Ian.....all together now .... 🙂. Maurice's stuff is/was pretty amazing, I think he's on here too isn't he? I made note of Pegasus on my list of ships I'd like to build when I'm all grown up.
  20. Kevin-the-lubber
    Wonderful work Daniel, I'm really looking forward to seeing the final look emerge.
  21. Kevin-the-lubber
    The main thing I’ve been printing in FDM is a four section 500mm long deck with staggered, interlocking joints using the plank lines to disguise that there’s a joint. As there’s only 0.2mm clearance the elephants foot effect meant I couldn’t do this successfully in resin on the plate. But I have to admit it didn’t occur to me to reduce the cure time for the initial layers so I might try that next time round. I also had another problem that I simply couldn’t figure out; when printing large rectangular sections on supports and tilted, the straight leading edge was not coming out straight, it always had a slight curve to it, regardless how hefty the supports. It’s as though the resin shrinks slightly during the print and gradually pulls the outer edges towards the centre.
  22. Kevin-the-lubber
    I did these a week or so back, just to see if it would go, which it obviously does. The wire is 0.5mm dia, the stems a very generous 1mm or thereabouts. The wire holes closed up during printing but there was enough of an indent to make drilling out easy. I wouldn't want to have to do 500 though! I think I only broke one stanchion head along the way. As you can see I've gone back to FDM for some parts. I'm finding that it is better than resin for larger flat surface parts and comes up well with a little light sanding.
  23. Kevin-the-lubber
    What resins are you using for parts that will be machined, Pat? I guess if the wall thickness is substantial enough you don't run into problems with brittleness. Unfortunately I don't have a hobby lathe/milling machine and although it would certainly solve many problems, I'll leave that until / if I reach a point where it would be more worthwhile. I looked at having the main body of the stern I made for the Victory professionally printed as I was having endless difficulty at this end, but it was too expensive. Eventually I found a way, as you do. Likewise I looked at making the vic stern available via shapeways but I wouldn't have been willing to pay the net price so wouldn't expect anyone else to either. When I go back and finish it off I'll look at another, more affordable way. Phil, one thing I learned on the Vic stern was that resin either shrinks or loses accuracy in the printing. I was losing about 0.5% with elegoo ABS-like. I haven't measured the loss with syratech but think it may be more as I've had a couple of parts that wouldn't fit as intended, but I think Pat's approach - treat as needing machining - is the best solution. I chased my tail a lot on the Vic trying to compensate through scaling but, in the end, adapted the design to work around the issue and am doing the same with the Cutty Sark. I think once you're printing walls/objects down at 0.3mm or so, they'll be fragile whatever resin you use. However if anyone is going to find the work around it'll likely be you, with this methodical approach.
  24. Kevin-the-lubber
    Pat, how expensive have you found MJF? I think you've had hulls made haven't you, if so what would be a ballpark figure for a 1 metre long hull? And getting back to the issue, how smooth and accurate are the contact surfaces in reality?
  25. Kevin-the-lubber
    Phil, I'd recommend both elegoo abs-like and sirayatech fast, each for different purposes. Take a look at my victory log, just skip to page 4 and you'll see the results I've been getting with the abs-like. There are some very thin sections, I think 0.2mm (0.008") is the smallest and I needed a bit of elasticity for which the elegoo is great. I've been using the sirayatech on the cutty sark but haven't posted any detail pictures yet, but I like it because it holds it's shape post-curing much better and is still a bit more elastic than standard resin. I've printed some very thin walled objects, about 0.2 or 0.3mm which are fine so long as I'm ultra careful when detaching supports. The technique I've developed for very delicate pieces is to make the supports longer than normal,10mm minimum, sometimes much more, and snip them off at the base first, as they then tend to come away from the object quite easily. Breakages have tended to occur when there isn't enough length for the support to bend when being cut, thus pushing upwards onto the delicate object. Re' curing, I was doing much the same as you when I was using a nail polish dryer but since buying the big anycubic wash'n'cure I do everything at 2 minutes regardless of size, which seems fine. Occasionally I'll turn the object and do another 2 minutes. I think 10 minutes might be overcooking it. Using medium supports but reducing the tip size is a good idea, I'll remember that. I was test printing railing at 10 thou or thereabouts last week but couldn't get it off the supports without breaking so will use 0.5mm wire instead.

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