Kevin-the-lubber
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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber
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Bill, if you need photos of an untouched hull section just post a picture of the area(s) you want and ask, it's no trouble and I'll probably welcome an excuse to take a break from F360. (coming along, coming along, slow but steady). I like that copperwork and, as Ian said, you certainly have some determination 're the nails. It took me about three or four sessions to just line the gunports first time round and I've still only partially done those on the 'good' hull. And you have a good eye for spacing, too. -
Daniel, he overtook me on about day 2. Even if I was building straight out of the box I don’t think I could keep up. Bill, it’s really good to see someone going through from the start, I’m learning a lot. But don’t listen to Daniel, I blame him entirely for my lack of progress, by setting such a high benchmark and making so many irresistible modifications.
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Much nicer Bill, out of interest what paint did you use? ps. Like the base as well, nice job, goes well with the copper.
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Agree Bill, if the photo is true to colour it looks closer to brass. What about weathering it? I think either Foxy or Bishop did some very lovely weathering of the hull.
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Good progress. This is the 'good fit' test body. All that scaffolding on the back is the printing support work, which I've kept in place to help keep the piece as rigid as possible when test fitting; as I'm using an ABS-like resin there's a fair bit of flex (which is good), so this allowed me to slip feeler gauges between the quarter galleries and hull to get each segment snug without the edges flexing outwards and giving false readings. The photo shows it in a 'relaxed' position, not glued, just held in place by an elastic band through one of the rear windows. At glue time, the body will squeeze in easily for a tight fit. From here, it's a case of now going back through the CAD modelling bit by bit, finalising the windows, balustrades, scrolls and rails. I've managed to turn a 3 piece section into a kit with around 50 or 60 parts 😂. No wonder it's taking so long!
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I was going to say something much more flattering - that it looks like marble - but on reflection it does look good enough to eat. I think the detail and relief shows up even better just primed, either way it’s an amazing bit of work.
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It does seem a shame that, when painted, the rigol detail gets somewhat lost in the bee lines (which is why I probably won't bother with improving them) and, at the end of the day it's your model Bill, to do with as you wish!
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7th August 2021 Remember I said at the outset that my log is all about a novices journey, warts and all... All is not well in the KTL shipyard. This…. Is supposed to have been this… … the consequence of which is this…. An expensive print failure, £70 worth of LCD printer screen destined for the recycling bin. This screen should look like a brand new, straight out of the box, tablet screen. That grey stuff is resin very firmly welded onto the screen now, making it useless. For those who have no knowledge of 3D printing, all that ‘scaffolding’ is pretty much exactly that, it supports overhangs in the object as it gets printed layer by 0.05mm layer, but also, as this is a tall, thin structure, it supports the walls and edges. The object is orientated this way, for printing, to get the best result for the important edges and faces. What’s happened here is that, at a certain point, the partially printed object has lost the tug of war with the resin vat, the new layer of cured resin has stayed stuck to the bottom of the vat (it needs to peel off and be stuck to the object), a few more layers have joined it for good company, then at some point all of that build-up has re-attached to the object and the force of separation has torn holes in the super thin, delicate layer of clear plastic that forms the bottom of the resin vat (the FEP), allowing resin to leak onto the screen and become duly cured. Very frustrating. Screens are treated as consumables and I have a spare, but £70!!!!! And not even a finished object!!!!! I know this is 'operator error', the frustration is not yet understanding what I can do to avoid a repeat. What I’m trying to do here is print the bodies of the stern and quarter galleries as one piece. All the décor gets printed separately (basically everything that isn’t painted black). The reason for a single piece body is because this solves various alignment problems with a three piece (stern + 2x quarter galleries). Or it will, once I get it to print. This print is/was intended to be a ‘fitting’ stage, that allows me to make some final, minor tweaks to the quarter gallery profiles so that the whole assembly is a nice snug fit to the hull. The windows and rails are already modelled but their final shape is contingent on that of their respective quarter gallery segments. I have to admit, with this being the second such failure (though the first didn’t wreck the screen), that I’m tempted to look again at just sanding off the Heller decoration and settling for new windows, balustrades, filigree etc all round. Except I think mine, if I can land it, will be better, because of the changes I’ve been able to add i.e. a better quarter gallery profile, thicker stern plate, counter running directly into the bottom of the quarter galleries. Plus I’ve been working on this for months and months and months now and to some degree getting a 'perfect' stern is a deal-breaker in terms of continuing with the model. (I use the term 'perfect' in a context that I'm sure every one of you will understand). Despite the miserable weather here today, a weekend of gardening or, if it rains too much, interior decorating, methinks, while I seek advice from those who know a lot more about printing with resin.
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Bill, to add a useless comment (I'm full of these), you probably wouldn't have been able to get such a nice craqueleur if you'd tried 🙄. Commiserations my friend, it does seem like this model is often two steps forward, one step back..... and sometimes the reverse.
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For me it was almost the exact opposite. I did an apprenticeship and spent the next 10 years being paid a pittance as a sheetmetalworker/welder, realising I had already reached the ceiling, pay-wise, by the age of 30. CNC had come into play by then and, while I could see that it was going to take all the fun out of the job, I found it interesting, especially the programming. I left the trade not long after but still draw on the skills, always have done, but had I remained I’d have wanted to get into CAD as I much preferred designing (problem solving) than making! I guess for me F360 + resin printing is a marriage made in heaven.
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Just bear in mind that I'm not speaking from experience here - I haven't painted these yet and do expect that to be 'interesting', as they say.
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This is only a personal view but so long as the stripes follow a natural line, have crisp edges and are reasonably close to the real thing, who'll notice? I doubt the Heller lines are that precise. I guess it's all down to what you're after, true to the real thing or a good representation. I abandoned the former ages ago. You're making huge progress here Bill, at this rate you'll be rigging within the month.
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I doubt you'll be far out anywhere Bill, nothing that you can't straighten out with the black by eyeing up when you tape it up for that.
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F360 - yes, quite a learning curve and, in my case anyway, sometimes very frustrating. And to be honest, I think this project is probably towards the higher end of using it. Tinkercad is really quite good for a lot of stuff but not something this complex.
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I didn't know that, Daniel. I think I'll keep mine transparent as for mine it makes no difference either way. You did some amazingly sharp painting there, those corbels are very difficult even to model. Bill, the top row is glazed, that was my 'I just want to paint something!' moment a few weeks back but it's not the finished article. I resin printed the panes for that one but the finish on one side of the 'glass' is pearl, which is why you can't see through it. I'm still undecided whether to take the easy route and stick with that method or treat myself to an expensive gateau and use the clear plastic it comes in for window glass.
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Thanks, it's coming along bit by bit. That one was the first 'print & paint' to see whether this was going to work out as hoped for. I'd guess at another month or two till I have a complete replacement stern and quarter galleries. This is why I'm starting to notice various small details, as I'm staring at the one area far too much!
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This is what I mean Bill. It'll be clearer when you offer up the large stern piece to the assembled hulls.
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Yes, I have, same with those on the counter. I forced a scalpel through bit by bit, wiggling it around, after shaping a bit of wood to go underneath to give support while I cut through. I could probably re-use the doors with a little dressing. Something I noticed today which you might want to think about. Where the hull butts up to the stern plate, it misaligns to the line of the windows. This is because the window edge line is straight all the way from top to bottom whereas the hull curves gently outwards from top to bottom. Consequently, the hull interferes with the bottom outer windows by about 1.5mm. Easy fix is to sand off the wale in the quarter gallery area, that’ll be enough and it’s hidden anyway.
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By the way, have you also got/looked at 'The 100-Gun Ship: Victory' by John McKay. It also has excellent drawings of blocks and rigging. I have no idea how accurate it is or how it dovetails with Longridge but personally I'll be slightly more inclined to start with this as the illustrations seem very clear.
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I’m sure it’ll all be fine Bill. If it was me, I’d just be careful about the faint bee lines that give a guide for the yellow and black stripes.
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The side entrance is next on my list. Daniel does a very nice kit including steps. For me it was a must do, not just because it adds detail and colour to the sides, but because the moulded steps are a bit bland. I've had a couple of goes at it myself, first making steps from evergreen card - they were pretty rubbish - and then 3D printing on a filament printer. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-a-novices-journey/. Better, but I'm still not happy enough with the result and, as the kit in my log is just the practice kit for trying stuff out, I'll be using a slightly approach when I go back to it, and resin printing which allows 100 times the detail, literally I think.
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Hi Bill, I haven’t opened this one up yet, but probably will once I’ve finished remaking the quarter galleries and was thinking I’d ignore the moulding and align it to the ones above. I don’t know how worthwhile it is, as my current ‘design intent’ has me resin printing the window panes and it might be literally invisible. But if I use clear plastic (likely) it would be. I have opened the closed ports at the prow and stern, just because I want as much detail as possible. Personally I doubt I’ll widen the wales and especially not take off the grain! Much as I’d like to do both and think them great modifications, I think I’d lose the will to live or at least to keep working on the model! Famous last words though, it wouldn’t be the first thing on the model where I’ve done a complete rethink and gone back to the beginning.
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He can always hold the door closed with his foot, Daniel :-). Or whistle. When you did this, did you recut it to align with the other doors? It has the strangest angle.
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The odd thing is that yellow ochre is the only one, so far, that gives me trouble and does so with every bottle - I have wasted a lot of paint through trying to clear blockages and now have a lifetimes supply as I figured I might go through tons of the stuff by the time I've got everything done. The others that I've tried go on beautifully.
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