Rick310
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Everything posted by Rick310
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Really well done!!! I like your idea of rigging the staysail’s before adding the back stays, with the shrouds holding the masts in place. Rick
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I find that Matt medium works well and is easy to use. Great Job!!! Rick
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- Maine
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This is beautiful George, You are really getting close now !! Very exciting!!
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- Flying Fish
- Model Shipways
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Roger and ClipperFan, Thanks for your very kind words!!! Every thing seems to take much longer than I expected, and it seems that I have to constantly remake items because I either don’t like the first result or I break something trying to correct it or I just plain loose it when I drop it or it flys out of my fingers/cotton pliers. None of this would be possible if not for EdT’s remarkable books on building the Young America. I have attempted to use the processes he describes in the 3 volume set. I have found them to be invaluable. Without them I would be lost. Roger, your own model is amazing!!! You are truly a master at metal work, which when done well, takes a model to a whole other level. I am learning a lot from your build as well and can only hope to come close to your level at some point. I really like Great Lakes ore carriers, being from Ohio and having lived outside of Cleveland for 36 years. My grandfather was a helmsman on a whale back freighter for a while after WW1. Again, thankyou both for the encouragement. Rick
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- Flying Fish
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Thanks for the info Clipperfan. Very helpful! I tried to bend the sides of the aft cabin to follow the curve of the stern with little success as the sides were built up and too stif to bend adequately without breaking or cracking them. After 6 straight weeks of out of town guests, finally got back to the Fish. Finished the topsail bits, fife rails and bilge pumps. The topsail bits, fife rails and stanchions were made from boxwood. The stanchions were turned on the lathe. The cross piece (bolster?) on the fore topsail bitts is larger than the one on the main bitts as the fore takes the strain on the main stay. I made the straps and shackles from copper sheet and wire per the chain plates for the deadeyes. These were secured to the cross piece with cyan and functional copper bolts. This was the first time I tried them and it worked well I hope. The bilge pumps were made per EdT and YA. I used his plans for them. I wanted to make the fly wheels but ended up using ones from Bluejacket to save time and have something acceptable. The pistons were too short but still difficult to put all together.
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ClipperFan, Good to hear from you. I’ve been following your posts with George and Jared, good information . I have yet to take a close look at the tops as I’m still trying to finish the hull, but will definitely keep your information in mind. Thanks, Rick
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Glad to hear that your case is mild! COViD is confounding for sure. Both my wife and I have had all vaccines and boosters, but my wife came down with Covid a year ago. I did not isolate from her and I didn’t come down with Covid or test positive. I tested every day and stayed negative. I contacted COVID in May but don’t know how I got it. My case was also very mild with no respiratory symptoms at all, just aching, chills and a fever for about 36 hours. Feel better soon!! Rick
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Feel better soon my friend!! Model looks great!! Rick
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Jared, As far as I know, the Flying Fish was launched before widespread use of wire for the standing rigging. I recommend using thread/cord for all rigging, both standing and running. That is what I am going to use. From what I understand, Underhill’s book really relates more to the later Downeasters and vessels built around the third quarter of the 1800’s. See the note in the instruction manual on typical iron work for the time period of the FF Rick
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George, Really great job!! Getting close now. Every painting I‘ve seen always shows a sail on the crojack( lower mizzen) yard although they are rarely portrayed as set. This may be because when set, they would block the wind to the main course. The term crojack yard may be a holdover from earlier times. Where are you getting your blocks from? I am trying to get some more from Syren but they have been unavailable for some time now. Rick
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Welcome back! Glad to hear you are doing well! Rick
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ClipperFan Good to hear from you. I have the Duncan McLean article and Ben Langford, who revised the original FF plans from the 1930’s(?) for Model Shipways used those dimensions in the plans. I think the error that was made was combining the lengths of the yards plus the length of the yardarms for the length of the yards. This error was corrected in the 1982 (?) revision. Rick
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Also George, I also thought that sts’l referred to the stuns’l , not the staysails and it took me awhile to figure that out as it didn’t make any sense. Rick
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Thanks George, I have the revised plans from 1982 ( ?)when it was discovered that the yard length were miscalculated and were too long. However, the sail plan is still the same as the original and they don’t have the little diagram naming all the sails. I have the plank on bulkhead version still in the box so I’ll have to go check those plans. I never heard that the sail plan was corrected for the POB version but it apparently was. Thanks again for info! Rick
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WOW!!!! That’s one good looking model!!! Very impressive!! Rick
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Thanks for the compliment Nils. I’ve been following your build also beautiful !!! George, Jared, I was looking over the rigging plans last night and I believe that the plans have missed labeled the head (jib) sails. Per Underhill in Masting and Rigging, I believe that the most forward head sail is the flying jib, then the outer jib, the (inner) jib and finally the fore top mast staysail. If true, this changes the belaying points for the downhauls, the sheets and the halyards or at least the labels. Am I missing something? Thouhts? Rick
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It’s been a real pleasure to follow your journey!! Great job!! Beautiful model!! Rick
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