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Veszett Roka

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Everything posted by Veszett Roka

  1. You will find that one is very useful for the Airfix Vasa. Thats a beautiful model and still the most accurate on the market (no so many kit i saw however). It will require extensive bashing, as no handrails, no cleats, no blocks were included in the box (maybe because i have the 'special edition' version?). The ratline tool will help you to line up the horizontal ropes perfectly, especially on mid and top shrouds.
  2. Correct, the grabbing line wasn't served but attached with canvas. Here are two pictures of 1920 hungarian ships' ring, i held them in my hand in reality too. Sand is not for electrical fires, but oil or grease, any liquid which lighter than water thus 'swimming' on it and cannot get separated from oxygen source.
  3. Hah! Novice! Sail once a Soling in high wind, i guarantee you will fall in love for a lifetime. More seriously, i competed in international Pirate, 470, Soling, Elliott770, sailed a 40er Scharenkreuzer and few motorboats, including a passenger ship - please forgive me for diesel engine
  4. I do so. However, it is somewhat in reverse order. First i do use alcohol, then next day i have to remove the acrylic paint
  5. If you allow me an offtopic note under your log Ian? For Passat builders, here is a half-hour documentary from Peking, the true sister ship of Passat. Luckily both of the old ladies are museum ships today, probably tons of reference pictures available, so this is more than a curiosity. Man, what a life it was!
  6. Hi Greg, Sound was fine for me, but i'm a Linux user.
  7. I think it is a great improvement Ian. Be proud!
  8. No one should build any wooden shipmodel (except gigantic ones) if we would take the wood grain patterns this serious. For colors, use veneer.
  9. Here is another pic, however it is not so informative. I think your anchor crane is correct for Preussen.
  10. I do understand the reason of paper decoration, but found somehow pity that we shall cover a wooden panel with a printed wood imitation paper.
  11. They are good, don't worry. After weathering they will come alive.
  12. Absolutely. And this is the reason why i didn't started a build log for my Pamir, because it would be a dead log - i have so little time for build her 😢
  13. Looking for another windjammer! Will you start a build log?
  14. Great improvement Ian. What if you add padding between the boat support and the flybridge?
  15. Quite a windy journey for that tailgunner... But at least nobody will notice the 'noise' after a bean lunch.
  16. Folks, i came to the party late, but started following this ship. On Youtube, try Ebroin's miniatures. He's a master of masking, chipping, etc. https://www.youtube.com/c/EbroinSong/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=0
  17. Hi Ian, the Y shaped posts are the right, so the Heller version. Here is a picture from the wrecked Preussen, on far left a support post clearly shown. Also i found a picture which show the forward catwalk is in level to the forecastle deck - i assume all would follow that design. Third one the very high chimneys. My previous picture in post #99 and the third one displays much lower chimneys, you might consider to shorten them before foremast rigging. Correction: earlier pictures show the high chimneys too. So they cut shorter sometimes, both version will be correct.
  18. You can call her anything, its still based on Mary Celeste - or Marie Celeste - whatever you prefer. Great looking ship any ways.
  19. Hi Ian, are you sure about the catwalks height? All of the windjammers i seen had levelled catwalks without any steps. I know the Presussen is unique, so i'm unsure, but i think the solution is the same. Unfortunately i found very few picture on board of Preussen. The models i see all sported flat catwalks. But one, this is clearly shows how the forestays tied together, what we have discussed earlier.
  20. No words Gary. Absolutely spectacular! i had to look onto any of my HO scale car to imagine how tiny those details are. Marvelous!
  21. Ah, it makes sense. I understand your concerns here, i would need properly thinned paints too. Especially because the old models have several layers of paint plus lacquer. Still don't know yet how to remove (or overpaint) the old colors. Also the fine pigmentation is important, i think Humbrol enamels is one of the best in this manner (disadvantage is their tendency to sedimentation, and you cannot know how long a paint bucket kept on the self). Thank you!
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