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Veszett Roka
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Everything posted by Veszett Roka
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Dunno Roger. I think these small boats like on the picture were rarely sported with 15-20 men on board, complete with 3 watch officer, engine mates etc. I think that description is based on the deepsea merchant marine fleet, not the coastal tramps. I know that usually the crew lived in the "focslee" but i doesn't see portholes on the side of forecastle on this particular boat picture so in my theory that part is for storage only. No deck hatch either, however we do not see if access doors exists on the forecastle bulkhead. -
I think this ship is too small for several rooms. I'm pretty sure that behind the bridge maybe only a small chart room, but i think there is only one room on the top floor: the bridge which acts as wheelhouse and chart room. Immediately below we have many portholes, i think this is the crew's dining saloon and lavatory. Behind this cabin there are a small house, that must be the kitchen - on its top you can see the freshwater tank. Below (now we are on the main deck) the cabins, we see the doors here. Captain's cabin must be at the front, just below the bridge and i can imagine an inner ladder to the bridge. We need a cabin for the first mate and chief engineer duo on other side. Crew should take accomadation by 4 bunks cabin, i think two will enough for 8 men (engineers, bosun, deck boss and deckhands). Need to have some storage for food: near the kitchen for canned and below deck for refrigerated food. Need some storage too for other stuff like ropes, engine parts, tools etc. I think the rear deckhouse is for the engine room (see 4 portholes on the rearhull section) and steering machine. ... and this is strictly speculation
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Hi OC, this might give you some idea. Personally i do not like to cover up the ship this amount, but otherwise it looks fantastic. You might consider to check out this modeler on Youtube, he has inspiring techniques and tricks.
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As RGL well said above. Rust is always near hinges (gunport doors, deck hatches etc.) and chains. Anchor beds were always full of rust, just like hawse pipes. Rust dust can accumulate in the corners which was washed out by sea later, so drain holes are prominent points.
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Willkommen hier, wir freuen uns über einen neuen Freund! Ich bin auch kein altes Mitglied, aber ich kann mit Sicherheit sagen, dass Sie in den besten Club gekommen sind.
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Real pirates must have some scratches Bill. Get well soon!
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Correct, they are same, the vacuum formed sails sheet still has 'Preussen' name. If intend to build Potosi, you need to add a second gaff to the jigger mast (sail plan here), as the kit has only one, but Potosi had double. You can check out the Cap Horn kit here. Pity, 100Eur still.
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Hi Kevin, i'd like to emphasize again that the Passat kit is actually a renamed Pamir. See my comment here. However, if you think for build Pamir instead of Passat, that is a very good kit.
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Nah, during i typed my note, Imagna just answered all the questions above
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Forgive me, i'm a newbie in RC scene. Ok then, why liquid ballast for a surface ship model? I do understand that liquid ballast needed in real life because it is everywhere around, needs to adjust to current load, weather, sea bottom and million things. But in model ship life those aren't factor, do they are? Maybe to reduce dead weight of model during transportation, its easier to simply fill or empty a tank than transport a couple of brick among with the ship. If so, the air vents could be simple: fill the tank and when its full just close the opening with a cork. Since it is full, no free surface effect. Also, triangular tanks could help, more filling means more weight and less free surface. We are pleased with huge space inside the hull, we can adjust the tanks freely.
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International Contenders were often built this way - i had opportunity to sail and breach one
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I'm always amazed by these huge scale models. As a remark, i started my sailing career in a 2-man dinghy which was 5 meters long (pirate class). Then moved to 470, which is 4.7 meters and that still an olympic class. So.. wow.
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In 2006, Hornby acquisited them from Humbrol (who has the Heller name since 1981), and started to issue 'new' kits under Airfix name. As far as i know, the 'special edition' issues are revised kits from this era, removing the incorrect parts and/or few pieces to allow bashing. I have a yet boxed Cutty special edition without molded stanchions, those are surely exists on the standard kit. Since 1986, all Airfix ship come without the plastic ratline, and has the adjustable ratline-maker jig instead. Other manufacturers, mainly Revell still use the plastic prefabricated ratlines. Nowadays many kits has nylon ratlines, those are looks like some kind of dark grey rubber. Never worked with them though. Cut the long story short, i don't know if any manufacturer comes out with newly designed and molded sailing ship kits. I have the feeling that i saw all their kits already. Shipman, if you have better informations, please share, i'm really interested.
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Airfix (Heller) has a 'Special Edition' product line, which neglect some parts to provide space for kit bashing. For instance the Special Edition Cutty Sark kit has no moulded handrails, stanchions, no prefabricated ratlines - but the kit has vacuum-formed styrene sails, i believe because some of us using paper sails hardened with thinned PVA glue which can use those sails as template.
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i might put some blu-tac spot in the jig which will hold the deadeyes in place until you thread them.
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It looks like used sandpaper. Couldn't cover the decks with it? However the fine scale sandpaper might be out of scale too... Which type of paint, enamel, acrylic? I'd go with enamel, it is more flexible. The worn spots could be added with thinned white or light grey later. For smaller scales, i'd suggest to check out Ebroin's Miniatures or Laser Creation Word. The latter is a bit repetitive regarding the zombie apocalyptic themes, but the technics are quite spectacular.
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Incredible precision! And what an enormous amount of work... Calm me down Richard, you will not capsize and sink her just for accuracy?!
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Gents, if you allow me to join the gossip. I think the social media is way overrated, thus responsible for human estrangement. As a computer engineer, i come from the world with no internet, saw the growing of WWW and Facebook as well. Since the youngsters grew in the world when those are natural, they think it is the world and all is right when using them without criticism. However, using them with a little logic, intelligence and skepticism will help the mankind to spread the knowledge - and the good knowledge. Contrary, we're (well, more of us) hanging on the false society what they (I mean Facebook, Twitter, Tiktok, whatewer) created for us, and many of us thinks this is the modern living. NOT. Modern living is for use the gadgets and social media for good: entertain yourself. And use the global knowledge of mankind to made your society a better place. Well, this is a better place for those social media, gets enormous amount of money to them so they will obstruct the critical use as long as they can. MSW is a fine example of the good use of the tool: although i'm realtively new in the community, but since we share a common hobby and we're come from different countries yet still feel everyone as being a friend, despite we never met personally and has very little chance to do so. Richard, mobile phones are great toys i believe. I do use mine all time when going outdoor hiking (a map), use it for personal trainer (when biking around) and it is good for listening music when doing my homework (i hate the roar of the vacuum cleaner). And yes, i can't hide from my wife but i can ask her what to shop for diner
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Really? I'd love it, because i still use my prehistoric Nikon F-501, and love it:
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Collections of Ship Models: Help!
Veszett Roka replied to Sam Willis's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Sam, just come to mind, and found again: Kaap Skil museum, and their huge diorama with ~50 model ship and their crew. Here is a pic of the diorama: -
How would you install the upwards flushing with sea water?
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Surely i'd dismantle the deck with a thin scalpel, just a little. I think the guns were glued themselves just below the opening, but a long bamboo stick can help tickling them out. I'd assume the glue is not too firm, since no pressure applied during the contact. I believe repairing the paint is easier than fabricate a new gun position.
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