Veszett Roka
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Everything posted by Veszett Roka
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I believe this will help you, if the kits are almost identical. Cutty Sark 1-220 Revell 1987.pdf -
Thanks Yves, i think the point -3- is the most important and the showstopper one. For -1- design, it is easy: a rod with 2 globes. For -2- if you print a couple of them near to each other, like trees in the forest, they will support themselves. But yes, cannot work out the fragile material. I have no any experience with 3D printing, so have no clue how rigid is the final product. Well, if you check out my Pamir in the 'At a glance' topic, you'll se mine is mint too. I did weathering on my old models (especially the warships), but since i built the Vasa without weathering for obvious reasons, i fell in love with the clean look.
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Yves, just out for interest, why aren't you simply print the stanchions? Also, will you weather the Snowberry? This is really impressive right now, I personally like a lot the wooden deck color on the foredeck. Great work.
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Also nail polish is good for secure screws from movement. Back in old times I've secured tape recorder's head azimuth adjusting screws with red nail polish.
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Egilman, i disagree. The laser cutters and 3D printers are just new tools. Computers are just blind and dumb devices without any brain, they're just helping us to find new ways to creativity. Think of that 3D printing allows you and other fellow modelers to cast more detailed tiny pieces (or even giant hulls) with incomparable details. The difference is HOW we are using them. You can print whole ships or small portions, the approach is the difference. And i can live both approach, every modelers has to find his/her favorite way.
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What short memory? I forgot the thread, need to re-read to remember Anyway, and more seriously - i got you. However, i believe that time is the matter only: a younger could learn it faster, you and me can learn it slower, with more practice and maybe a lot of trial and error. I did try learn new technologies many times in my life, and succeeded - sometimes age and experience (especially the logical and analytical approach, which comes from the real life experience, lets say age) is a great advantage. Cheers Roka
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Never too old to learn something new. You can decide later to live with it or leave it, can't you? Age starts when you thinks you're old
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Bill, i'd paint the hawse holes and the bow section 356-357 first, then glue them to final position. Minor putty might need there (especially between the hull and bow) but it might filled by unthinned black paint too. As those are not part of the bee lines, i don't see reason to glue before the paint.
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Never mind Bill, call yourself Cool-Man-of-69 and you'll be very popular Congrats for you and Hubac too!
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Hi Winnie, i'm following your project with interest. I have built (well before the 1997 film) the Academy 1:350 as a technical demonstrator for absolute beginners, what you can achieve with no tools other than a knife and some brushes. Wasn't a pleasant build though, but the result is not at bad as i think. So i'm really curious about this huge kit, what are the differences and similarities, what changed in the past 30+ years.
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Hi Fuji, you may want to add the iconic rotating storm-window onto the middle window of the bridge? cheers, Miki
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The price is good mark, but not sure sign. Expensive brands have small tricks: As Hubac said above, longer handles, nickel sockets for hair (the ferrule) or non/sticking finish, and especially good balance. Balance is important for fine work (just like airbrush) and best handling - personally i like the lighter bristle and heavier handles. But cheaper brushes could perform the same like the 20$ stick. Go to the local hobby shop and try for the most handsome one - if it will perform less than expected, you can try another, but i'm pretty sure you'll choose the good one and will get a very fine brush.
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I'm painting my models entirely by brush. Simply i love it. for me the most interesting is the softness of the brush. Softer brush for finest details. My favourite is D'Artigny, but any of fine brush will be good. My smallest brush is 00, this is ~1mm wide and it is good for miniature details. Also i have a flat cut 2 size, this is sharp enough for almost all task, however painting for the Trumpeter 1:200 Titanic would be a painful job with it :) Also the thinning. Thinner paint is easier to paint, i'm using mainly Humbrol enamels with artistic thinner (terpentin).
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Pity, i have a tiny 1:720 Eskimo only (came with the Revell Ark Royal kit https://www.revell.de/produkte/modellbau/schiffe/militaer-schiffe/hms-ark-royal-tribal-class-des.html ) but that one is pathetic. Forgive me, i was a kid when built. What threads are you using for rigging? Is this an elastic one?
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Never thought, they fixed the boats with giant rubber bands? Seriously, wonderful ship, and it demonstrates how nuances and small details could bring life to a model ship. And yeah, a talented modeler is mandatory. Congratulations Greg, and now i'm started following your excellent build.
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Hi Kevin, When i was there in the last millenium, it was possible from a car park and with a good teleobjective lens (i have a 200mm telezoom). I marked the spot by red. Another picture was taken on the blue spot, if the first one is too far or closed from public, i hope that one will be open near the Mary Rose museum.
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Another "agree" from me. As a retired sailor (albeit on an olympic race class) i can say that the ships are living. The owners and crew continously trying to modify their lady to get better handling, for more convenient working, for beauty, and not last: pride! We did it too. If you can pinpoint an exact time, the model can be accurate. If you cannot, then everything permitted and only your eyes are the judges. IF you enjoy the model, then thats a bigest success no doubt.
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Hi Bill, if you allow me a hint: paint the skylight windows light grey. Usually they were opal glass, however no guarantee for all. At least the two ship has opal glas covers, as i see them on Peking and same on Balclutha: https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.ca1493.sheet/?sp=62 This will be a very good looking model anyways. Cheers, Miki
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Happy birthday to him! I'm happy to see you finishing her too
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All original! Brilliant! Your big little boy will be proud of you. And i hope a bit jealous, too :)
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Hi Bill, very good looking ship, you performed awesome salvaging work. For the deck, cannot it be recovered by sanding? Just for authenticity of the 50 years kit.
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I'm a bit skeptic about that the boat was towed all time. This is a sure path to lose the espingen in high sea, despite the fact that weather was not factor in Wasa's entire life. What i know they used the yards to lift the boat up from the sea: https://www.quora.com/How-were-longboats-jolly-boats-hauled-on-board-16th-or-17th-century-sailing-ship Contrary, the dinghy is not modelled on board in Vasamuseet 1:10 :
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Hi Bill, There was no davits for the boat. They hanged the boat up to the mainmast forestay, but those ropes weren't a permanent installation, used only on demand.
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It is still better than my first planking was, generally. Sanding and filling will produce a smooth surface, if the vessel will be double planked (veneer on top) then it is almost ready to the second layer. If not, if this is the final body then filler is a must anyhow, so i consider this as a great start Halvor.
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