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Veszett Roka

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Everything posted by Veszett Roka

  1. Hi Bill, very good looking ship, you performed awesome salvaging work. For the deck, cannot it be recovered by sanding? Just for authenticity of the 50 years kit.
  2. I'm a bit skeptic about that the boat was towed all time. This is a sure path to lose the espingen in high sea, despite the fact that weather was not factor in Wasa's entire life. What i know they used the yards to lift the boat up from the sea: https://www.quora.com/How-were-longboats-jolly-boats-hauled-on-board-16th-or-17th-century-sailing-ship Contrary, the dinghy is not modelled on board in Vasamuseet 1:10 :
  3. Hi Bill, There was no davits for the boat. They hanged the boat up to the mainmast forestay, but those ropes weren't a permanent installation, used only on demand.
  4. It is still better than my first planking was, generally. Sanding and filling will produce a smooth surface, if the vessel will be double planked (veneer on top) then it is almost ready to the second layer. If not, if this is the final body then filler is a must anyhow, so i consider this as a great start Halvor.
  5. Hi Bill, As the kit is 50 years old, I'd consider the glue first. If it is still hard enough and the planks aren't loose cement somewhere, i would leave the planking intact. Some sanding will be needed at the bow however, but after painting it will be neat.
  6. Welcome here. You're a lucky man, sometimes i wish to reach retirement age, and have time for anything. Enjoy the ride!
  7. Hi there Yves, you might saw THIS already (Well, the antifouling is not on its best 🙃 )
  8. It depends on many things. If the boat going westward, then port side will shown. Also, same for all boat what has left-handed captain, but left handed first mate must shown on starboard. Additionally, please be careful: boats and ships before 3200BC always presented on starboard, at that time the portside wasn't yet invented, even for hieroglyph men too 😁
  9. Calypso had four blade props here: this is a still picture from 1977 short film "Calypso's search for Britannic" Cheers, Miki
  10. Same here. Thermoplastic sails are good to form cloth or paper sails (depends on the scale i think). Personally i prefer the furled sails, not to cover too much rigging. I usually made the furled sails from paper tissues, but i have cloth too - which need to cut half size due the scale, full size sails are too thick when "rolled" up.
  11. Hi George, however this is not a great picture, but it shows the foremast quite well. The ratlines - same like the real Passat - are using the middle 4 shrouds and periodically lengthten to the outer 2. Your Passat instruction shows all 5 shrouds ratlines, because the instruction made for Pamir (if we are talking the same Revell/Heller kit), as the whole Passat kit is a renamed Pamir kit. Just compare the hawse pipes on the bow. Cheers, Miki
  12. Great! Will the hop culture be enough to produce some great hand-crafted beer?
  13. Doris, This is the most emotional picture i've ever seen. Especially knowing a bit more of what behind. -miki
  14. I'm so sorry Doris, so sorry. You can be sure he is smiling at You and the ship altogether.
  15. This is not shipmodelling. This is ART.
  16. I'm jealous too. Wish i had such friendly place. Also loving your car registration plate.
  17. Awesome. The inn is really nice, and now i know the evolution. Sit-in restaurant on front, drive-in takeaway at the rear side Simply beautiful.
  18. No, they are perfectly recognizable. Need to give some fine spirit to the inspector, to start a long work
  19. Excellent small diorama! Just two figures, a small crate, small blueprint and it tells a full story in the shipyard. First i was skeptic about the dull colors and rusted copper, but now all has meanings. Congratulations Patrick! Hope you fully recovered now from C19? greets Miki
  20. Hi Ian, At least on Peking they were seized together - but i was on her deck back in 1994, and her condition was pathetic at time. I believe both scheme is correct, i can imagine that they tried both and used the better solution. If i'd be the ship designer, i'd use doubled single lines (e.g clove heads on both ends of the stays) because the pictured single stays (on model Preussen) would fail if any side cracks off. Seizing could reduce that danger too - but on other hands the continously grazing stays could grate each other which is not a factor for single lines. The clove hitches... i think i will glue them instead of tying on my Pamir. Or maybe false tying secured with PVA.. dont know yet, and also i'll have to do it on 4 masts only Also, let me claim Peking for futtocks. They were solid rods for sure on that ship, i believe the rigid bars are accurate. Which is not exclude chains on Preussen though, i can imagine mixed (rods and chains) solution too. As i remember Pamir's instructions Heller suggest to use simple ropes on that (which is incorrect, i'd use copper wire then). I am not planning to start a building log here for two reasons, well maybe three. First, the hull is almost completed, some tiny details, cargo cranes, boats need to attach still, but i will fix them after the rigging completed. I think they were obstruct me during the belaying. Second, that build log would be a dead one, nowadays i have very little time for our beloved hobby (psst... I read the forum during working hours, but don't tell anyone!), no one wants to wait several months to a new update i think. And third, my mistakes. I did many mistake on the model which need to address first. The masts are just dark gray primed, and still i'm missing the final ochre glossy paint, but time at first! Cheers big ears, Miki
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