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Veszett Roka
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Everything posted by Veszett Roka
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Hi Winnie, i'm following your project with interest. I have built (well before the 1997 film) the Academy 1:350 as a technical demonstrator for absolute beginners, what you can achieve with no tools other than a knife and some brushes. Wasn't a pleasant build though, but the result is not at bad as i think. So i'm really curious about this huge kit, what are the differences and similarities, what changed in the past 30+ years.
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Hi Fuji, you may want to add the iconic rotating storm-window onto the middle window of the bridge? cheers, Miki
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- calypso
- billing boats
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The price is good mark, but not sure sign. Expensive brands have small tricks: As Hubac said above, longer handles, nickel sockets for hair (the ferrule) or non/sticking finish, and especially good balance. Balance is important for fine work (just like airbrush) and best handling - personally i like the lighter bristle and heavier handles. But cheaper brushes could perform the same like the 20$ stick. Go to the local hobby shop and try for the most handsome one - if it will perform less than expected, you can try another, but i'm pretty sure you'll choose the good one and will get a very fine brush.
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I'm painting my models entirely by brush. Simply i love it. for me the most interesting is the softness of the brush. Softer brush for finest details. My favourite is D'Artigny, but any of fine brush will be good. My smallest brush is 00, this is ~1mm wide and it is good for miniature details. Also i have a flat cut 2 size, this is sharp enough for almost all task, however painting for the Trumpeter 1:200 Titanic would be a painful job with it :) Also the thinning. Thinner paint is easier to paint, i'm using mainly Humbrol enamels with artistic thinner (terpentin).
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Pity, i have a tiny 1:720 Eskimo only (came with the Revell Ark Royal kit https://www.revell.de/produkte/modellbau/schiffe/militaer-schiffe/hms-ark-royal-tribal-class-des.html ) but that one is pathetic. Forgive me, i was a kid when built. What threads are you using for rigging? Is this an elastic one?
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Never thought, they fixed the boats with giant rubber bands? Seriously, wonderful ship, and it demonstrates how nuances and small details could bring life to a model ship. And yeah, a talented modeler is mandatory. Congratulations Greg, and now i'm started following your excellent build.
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Hi Kevin, When i was there in the last millenium, it was possible from a car park and with a good teleobjective lens (i have a 200mm telezoom). I marked the spot by red. Another picture was taken on the blue spot, if the first one is too far or closed from public, i hope that one will be open near the Mary Rose museum.
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Another "agree" from me. As a retired sailor (albeit on an olympic race class) i can say that the ships are living. The owners and crew continously trying to modify their lady to get better handling, for more convenient working, for beauty, and not last: pride! We did it too. If you can pinpoint an exact time, the model can be accurate. If you cannot, then everything permitted and only your eyes are the judges. IF you enjoy the model, then thats a bigest success no doubt.
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Hi Bill, if you allow me a hint: paint the skylight windows light grey. Usually they were opal glass, however no guarantee for all. At least the two ship has opal glas covers, as i see them on Peking and same on Balclutha: https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.ca1493.sheet/?sp=62 This will be a very good looking model anyways. Cheers, Miki
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Happy birthday to him! I'm happy to see you finishing her too
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All original! Brilliant! Your big little boy will be proud of you. And i hope a bit jealous, too :)
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Hi Bill, very good looking ship, you performed awesome salvaging work. For the deck, cannot it be recovered by sanding? Just for authenticity of the 50 years kit.
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I'm a bit skeptic about that the boat was towed all time. This is a sure path to lose the espingen in high sea, despite the fact that weather was not factor in Wasa's entire life. What i know they used the yards to lift the boat up from the sea: https://www.quora.com/How-were-longboats-jolly-boats-hauled-on-board-16th-or-17th-century-sailing-ship Contrary, the dinghy is not modelled on board in Vasamuseet 1:10 :
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Hi Bill, There was no davits for the boat. They hanged the boat up to the mainmast forestay, but those ropes weren't a permanent installation, used only on demand.
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It is still better than my first planking was, generally. Sanding and filling will produce a smooth surface, if the vessel will be double planked (veneer on top) then it is almost ready to the second layer. If not, if this is the final body then filler is a must anyhow, so i consider this as a great start Halvor.
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Wow. Simply wow.
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Hi Bill, As the kit is 50 years old, I'd consider the glue first. If it is still hard enough and the planks aren't loose cement somewhere, i would leave the planking intact. Some sanding will be needed at the bow however, but after painting it will be neat.
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Retired and ready to build my first model!
Veszett Roka replied to lraymo's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome here. You're a lucky man, sometimes i wish to reach retirement age, and have time for anything. Enjoy the ride! -
Hi there Yves, you might saw THIS already (Well, the antifouling is not on its best 🙃 )
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- Queen Mary 2
- Heller
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It depends on many things. If the boat going westward, then port side will shown. Also, same for all boat what has left-handed captain, but left handed first mate must shown on starboard. Additionally, please be careful: boats and ships before 3200BC always presented on starboard, at that time the portside wasn't yet invented, even for hieroglyph men too 😁
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Calypso had four blade props here: this is a still picture from 1977 short film "Calypso's search for Britannic" Cheers, Miki
- 70 replies
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- calypso
- billing boats
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Same here. Thermoplastic sails are good to form cloth or paper sails (depends on the scale i think). Personally i prefer the furled sails, not to cover too much rigging. I usually made the furled sails from paper tissues, but i have cloth too - which need to cut half size due the scale, full size sails are too thick when "rolled" up.
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