Veszett Roka

Calypso had four blade props here: this is a still picture from 1977 short film "Calypso's search for Britannic" Cheers, Miki

Same here. Thermoplastic sails are good to form cloth or paper sails (depends on the scale i think). Personally i prefer the furled sails, not to cover too much rigging. I usually made the furled sails from paper tissues, but i have cloth too - which need to cut half size due the scale, full size sails are too thick when "rolled" up.

Simply stunning. I cannot find words.

Hi George, however this is not a great picture, but it shows the foremast quite well. The ratlines - same like the real Passat - are using the middle 4 shrouds and periodically lengthten to the outer 2. Your Passat instruction shows all 5 shrouds ratlines, because the instruction made for Pamir (if we are talking the same Revell/Heller kit), as the whole Passat kit is a renamed Pamir kit. Just compare the hawse pipes on the bow. Cheers, Miki

Great! Will the hop culture be enough to produce some great hand-crafted beer?

Doris, This is the most emotional picture i've ever seen. Especially knowing a bit more of what behind. -miki

I'm so sorry Doris, so sorry. You can be sure he is smiling at You and the ship altogether.

This is not shipmodelling. This is ART.

I'm jealous too. Wish i had such friendly place. Also loving your car registration plate.

Awesome. The inn is really nice, and now i know the evolution. Sit-in restaurant on front, drive-in takeaway at the rear side Simply beautiful.

No, they are perfectly recognizable. Need to give some fine spirit to the inspector, to start a long work

Excellent small diorama! Just two figures, a small crate, small blueprint and it tells a full story in the shipyard. First i was skeptic about the dull colors and rusted copper, but now all has meanings. Congratulations Patrick! Hope you fully recovered now from C19? greets Miki

Hi Ian, At least on Peking they were seized together - but i was on her deck back in 1994, and her condition was pathetic at time. I believe both scheme is correct, i can imagine that they tried both and used the better solution. If i'd be the ship designer, i'd use doubled single lines (e.g clove heads on both ends of the stays) because the pictured single stays (on model Preussen) would fail if any side cracks off. Seizing could reduce that danger too - but on other hands the continously grazing stays could grate each other which is not a factor for single lines. The clove hitches... i think i will glue them instead of tying on my Pamir. Or maybe false tying secured with PVA.. dont know yet, and also i'll have to do it on 4 masts only Also, let me claim Peking for futtocks. They were solid rods for sure on that ship, i believe the rigid bars are accurate. Which is not exclude chains on Preussen though, i can imagine mixed (rods and chains) solution too. As i remember Pamir's instructions Heller suggest to use simple ropes on that (which is incorrect, i'd use copper wire then). I am not planning to start a building log here for two reasons, well maybe three. First, the hull is almost completed, some tiny details, cargo cranes, boats need to attach still, but i will fix them after the rigging completed. I think they were obstruct me during the belaying. Second, that build log would be a dead one, nowadays i have very little time for our beloved hobby (psst... I read the forum during working hours, but don't tell anyone!), no one wants to wait several months to a new update i think. And third, my mistakes. I did many mistake on the model which need to address first. The masts are just dark gray primed, and still i'm missing the final ochre glossy paint, but time at first! Cheers big ears, Miki

eeer.... 😄

Let me give a name: Le village Sans Arbres

Another one (had to rotate for upload) shows that the figurehead painted to gold on this model too.

Thanks Ian, no, i didn't read Newby's book, but its on my wishlist from now, thanks for the tip! If you come to Europe for a museum-ship trip, do not forget to visit Mariehamn where Pommern is moored, just a few hours away from Stockholm. Unfortunately when i was in the Vasamuseet i had no time for a day trip to Aland island. Or two days... Now you're lucky if you want to see a few P-liners: Peking now the main attraction of Port Museum Hamburg (although it is already closed for winter), Passat is moored in Lubeck, they are quite close and you can compare them to each other: are they really sisters? Hamburg has daily ferry connection to Stockholm (where Wasa is) and then you can go to see Pommern with another ferry trip. Let me share my pictures of another Preussen model, yet unfinished. It might help with the brace winches, unfortunately i didn't found exact source where they was in reality. I'm tend to agree with the belaying map.

Just came across this build log, as I'm quite a fan of Flying P liners, especially the windjammers. So be careful with that Passat kit. Actually this is a renamed Pamir kit. Although claimed Passat and Pamir as sisters, Pamir had a different bow and the mentioned kit depict Pamir's. The portholes and hawse pipes are different and the reviewer didn't paid attention to this fact. However, the kit itself is very good in 1:150 scale - i have one half-completed and in progress. The Heller kit had vacuum-formed plastic sails too, but i think i will not use them. Passat's true sister ship is Peking, she is a museum ship in Hamburg after an exhaustive restoration (to seaworthy condition). The restoration was performed in the Blohm und Woss shipyard, by her original manufacturer and using her original blueprints. Anyways, the Preussen is surely a different one, the only built 5 masted full rigged ship at time. A true masterpiece of sailing vessels. You Sir got a new follower! happy modeling, Miki

I disagree. Although she is a different ship both in size and duty, the solutions are the same (just think their rudder and helm: Victory's larger, and the steering ropes aren't visible due they are under the deck, but the solution is the same). I think checking models is a good source, other modelers might have better resources than you, and they are trying to interpret their models with their best. Additionally the ships can change both in colors and rigging, so which version is the only good one? For a fine example, Lusitania. She had 3 wing propellers at first, then changed the outer two to 4 wing and different shape, then changed all four to 4 wing but smaller size and again different shape from the previous. Which is the good when modeling the ship? Original plans issued with 3 winged screws. Another example: the Wasa (Vasa is the correct form anyways). All books written from her says her colors was blue. Until the new studies unveiled her true color was red instead. We don't know how exactly Mary Rose looked before she sank, we have paintings from her. Which, in fact inaccurate - theyre just giving a general snapshot even for me and for the archeologists of how the carracks looked in the 16th century. All the others are good speculation - and we still have a half hull in Portsmouth. Does this means that we cannot made a model of Mary Rose, because it will be inaccurate? I know you can depict the subject in a certain timeframe (Bounty reaching Pitcairn), but how can you ensure that how the actual ship looked at time, plus whether it matches to the book which written maybe centuries after? And 2 question: from where the authors got their sources? Are those sources reliable ones? I'm pretty sure they read books, checked some models and paintings in the museums, read plans, then they interpret the ship, shipwright with their best - like the modelers. So cut the long story short: i accept other modelers work as a source, also other different ships from the same era. Also the modern sailing replicas, even the 1960 Bounty replica sunk, and 1978 replica built on steel frames. The only restriction is to say: my model is probably not 100% accurate because my sources could be inaccurate - but truly depict the era and mariner life in the period.

I did checked some Bounty models and also a couple of pictures of the sailing replica of Bounty. The wooden sticks which exists on Victory doesnt found on Bounty, despite the fact that they are from the same era. Seemingly the solution vary for each ship.

It should stay on top, the furled sail must be tied to the gaff yard and to the mast itself. For me, the second version (red-yellow) is the good one. Looking for Victory's bow, it clearly shows that solution:

I think the poppy seed phrase is very accurate here anyway. The key is the dimension, also the scale. At a certain point there is impossible to display the desired accuracy, we have to model something similar than the original. Rounding the holes are (or could be?) right at 1:64 but below 1:100 it is more than a microscopic radius and besides it requires precision work, no one will notice it: simply it is visible through magnifier lens only. My blocks are 2mm in 1:150, which means 30 cm in reality which is a quite large one but was hard enough to drill the holes into them to emulate the function of a real thing. I think this is a good accuracy to simulate a block where a block has been on the original ship. Well, higher accuracy would be better, but this is beyond my limits. Just popped up in my mind: drill a hole in the plastic body of the block, and pull a nylon thread with force through it many times. It should smooth the edges of the hole, maybe add a roller effect. What you think fellow builders?

And here is the original Revell 1:220 kit manual. I hope you can use it. Cutty Sark 1-220 Revell 1987.pdf

Very good looking vessel! I do love to see the planking like the real one, and the terracotta color is also a bullseye. Will you add sails to her?

For the blocks, i have used to cut the moulding frames to tiny pieces and drilled 2 holes in at right angles. The below pic is from my 1:150 Vasa, one block is actually 2mm long and the holes are 0.7 mm. Sorry for the quality, there is no better macro fotomachine at hand now.