Papa

Deck is finished and oiled. I think I will sand it lightly and do a second coat. Also got the first coat of black on the hull.

Deck is finished and oiled. I think I will sand it lightly and do a second coat. Also got the first coat of black on the hull.

Re “I got you beat, Jud” from Cleet, I was punch card coding an IBM 1620 in 1962. Didn’t do any CAD but I developed a symbolic algebraic interpreter that would manipulate polynomial expressions. It was very slow! But then, the computer only had 64,000 bits (not bytes, bits) of memory. I was a sophomore math major at UNH  at the time.
And I had to hike uphill both ways in the snow to get to the computer center. And fend off dinosaurs at the same time. LOL
 
old yankee,
Ron Gove

I have a friend whose twin sons named their cat “F-16 Strike Eagle”. This was some 40 years ago. 

I have a friend whose twin sons named their cat “F-16 Strike Eagle”. This was some 40 years ago. 

I have a friend whose twin sons named their cat “F-16 Strike Eagle”. This was some 40 years ago. 

I have a friend whose twin sons named their cat “F-16 Strike Eagle”. This was some 40 years ago. 

I have a friend whose twin sons named their cat “F-16 Strike Eagle”. This was some 40 years ago. 

Beautiful model.  Also a great example of why one can never have too many clamps!

Re “I got you beat, Jud” from Cleet, I was punch card coding an IBM 1620 in 1962. Didn’t do any CAD but I developed a symbolic algebraic interpreter that would manipulate polynomial expressions. It was very slow! But then, the computer only had 64,000 bits (not bytes, bits) of memory. I was a sophomore math major at UNH  at the time.
And I had to hike uphill both ways in the snow to get to the computer center. And fend off dinosaurs at the same time. LOL
 
old yankee,
Ron Gove

I’ve been planking the deck.  That is slow work. 

I’ve been planking the deck.  That is slow work. 

I’ve been planking the deck.  That is slow work. 

hello Lou.........I will say this........for anyone who like to do German planes,  this book is a must have!  it even has some color pictures.........it doesn't have them all,  but it covers quite a few.   they also housed quite an array of captured planes.  B 25's....B 24's.......Spitfires......even a couple Lockheed Lightnings:  a P 38G,  and a brand new {at the time} F 5E.  the pilot of that aircraft was court martial-ed and served a long prison sentence.  makes you wonder what went on there?!?!?   through the war,  the Germans had around twenty B 17's,  as well as several B 24's.........the book gives a pretty good outline concerning KG 200.  it corrects what I've read in a couple of ways as well.......all of the Lt. Flickinger crew were captured,  and that the nose art wasn't on the starboard side,  but on the port side instead.   here is what the nose art looked like:

I hope you can read the text......it's true......the text "wulfe Hound" was spelt incorrectly in some of the articles I read.  they broke the nose glass to get at the Norden bomb sight.........unknown why Flickinger didn't destroy it.

of course......it could be possible for the art to be on both sides.........I've never seen it though.  it does save me though...the Germans did remove it.   note the striping on the prop blades.......something that the Germans didn't do on their own aircraft.

vulnerable parts of the B 17 was marked out and shown to fighter pilots,  so they would have a head's up on where to strike.  the wing tanks were highlighted,  causing manufacturers of later models to move them further outboard.   something I didn't know,  but located just aft of the top gunner bubble on both sides of the bulge atop the fuselage,  there are compartments for rafts,  in the event that a water landing was made.

paint is going to be fun to do for this one........a lot of fading has occurred.   99% of the early model B 17's were painted olive drab with gray under belly.  it wasn't until later model emerged,  that they stopped painting them,  leaving them in their natural aluminum.  some were painted in the field,  or simply dolled up..........some even got camo,  leaving no real bad way to paint a B 17   

one thing I forgot to mention about this bird......when it crash landed,  the under belly turret was in the down position.   it was never repaired and likely removed.  I will need to patch over the hole somehow.  it's likely that some of the damaged interior wasn't repaired or replaced,  unless it was important.  some of the captured B'17's were never used and were cannibalized for parts.   for this reason,  and the simplicity of the kit at the time,  doing interior embellishments is not in the cards.  I'll do what I need to,  but I want to focus on the exterior.  as you said........not too many planes have been modeled relating to this subject matter.

The yard lifts are all done now (see picture).  The other picture shows the first piece of rigging on the foremast lower yard.
 
I'm now going to get into the yard braces, and I have looked at the rigging diagram and concluded that the best sequence for braces to preserve ease of access for rigging is:
 
Do the top three yard braces on the main mast next. Then do all of the yard braces on the mizzen. Then the top two yard braces on the foremast. Then rig the inner brace on the main mast lower yard (matches the one I've done on the foremast lower shown below) Then rig the three lower yard braces on the foremast Finally, rig the three lower yard braces on the main mast. If I do it that way, I hopefully will minimize contortionist activity getting "inside" rigging already installed.
 
Getting close to the end now.
 
Regards,
David
 
 

I now have the foremast yards up, which took a while because as noted above I wanted to stabilize the foremast with all of the stays before hanging the top three yards, which are only supported by the yard lifts, and I wanted to get their positioning right.  So lots of standing rigging and ratlines.  And I needed to do most of the main mast stays since it is partly stabilized by stays to the foremast.
 
The pictures below show the foremast yards, and you may see a bit of blue tape on the lower two where they meet the mast.  They are mounted using a hinge assembly that has a lot of rotational play in it, so without the tape they would slant all the way over and partly turn.  That of course will be fixed with the running rigging.
 
I'll now finish the main mast ratlines and then build the main mast yards and mount them, and then on to the mizzen.  I'll have to do the mizzen stays before mounting the main mast yards -- again because some of those stays run to the main mast and will move it just slightly.
 
Regards,
David
 
 

Here are a few more pictures of the Diana.

Finally managed to get back to the modelling bench.
planking now ‘pencilled in’.

Then the first coat of Oak varnish 

I have now started ‘roughing out’ the hull frame ready for the inner hull planking.


Thanks for looking more soon I hope.

Thanks for the comments guys, and also to all those who "Liked" my posts  .
 
I've done all the cab detailing that I'm going to do. A few of these parts will be a bit difficult to see when the cab is completed, but the pics are proof that they are in there  .
 
This triple valve is made from brass tubing and styrene rod. The handwheels are laser-cut paper :





Two scratchbuilt switch panels :


Now I could fit the sides. The fit was perfect  :



Some final pics of the cab interior before things get harder to see :

 



Danny

The coal bunker has also been made. I'll fit this to the cab after I've done a bit more detailing to the controls :




The ladders and lights :




The completed coal bunker :



Danny

The following :





In addition, here is the final support of the village proposed by the kit: I will surely not use it at the end, another idea is already in progress to make the supports, but it will serve me to place the elements and the walls between buildings ... A sort of shipyard in fact!



Finally, I planned to make a little richer in the constructions than the rough stone representation, with nothing for the openings of windows, doors, bell tower, etc ... A little brick will not do any harm (to create very small, small!):

 
 
I only spent 10 or 15 more hours there: each stone takes time to adjust!
Afterwards, you have to sand, scrape, make the main joints, clean, wash, etc ... I have not yet definitively chosen what appearance I will give to the whole: all the full joints or leave a little "day" between the stones.

All this may seem a bit wobbly from time to time, but I am convinced that it will only make once in place, clean joints, aged, vegetated, in its environment on a base!

Finished
 
 

Getting closer to a finish. Added the decals and Aces II ejection seats. Next will be adding a few landing/navigation lights, a dull coat to seal the decals, then last add the ordnance.
 

I went ahead and broke the tail removed decal and applied NEW decal to the same EFFECT!!! @#*^% So we took off that decal repaint the rudder all white again mt mask for the tail made it to the trash so I had to paint the black by hand.This time kevin glued the damn rudder to the plane and applied decal although the wrong ones for the plane it will just have to frigg'in do! I am good now Kevin
 
 
 
 
 
 

I’d say not wrong, but I’m not in charge. Do as many as you can! Like you I need multiple models going to fill in the time when glue and paint is drying or I get bored with something. Currently I am building the C W Morgan, City of Pekin, A6 A Intruder, Amelia Earhart’s Lockheed Electra (incidentally a horrible poorly fitting kit I have been messing with for ages) and a Guillows de Havilland Beaver  stick and tissue kit. I am only doing logs for the two ships as this is after all a ship model site. I will post the occasional non ship kit progress in the Shore Leave section