Matrim

If you are completing then you are a 'successful' newbie. There will always be someone 'better' as with most things in life some people dedicate everything to specific endeavours and so will be miles ahead of everyone else. I tend to be happy if my current model improves on my last and fortunately there is a huge amount to improve..
 
Anyway welcome to the site!

If you are completing then you are a 'successful' newbie. There will always be someone 'better' as with most things in life some people dedicate everything to specific endeavours and so will be miles ahead of everyone else. I tend to be happy if my current model improves on my last and fortunately there is a huge amount to improve..
 
Anyway welcome to the site!

Well I am down stream of my brother and his habit of losing interest in things. The recent consequence was aquiring a pristine Latina HMS Bounty Jolly boat kit along with remants of another minus the frame. Having no experience other than plastic Revell models during childhood (I'm now 73 I think) how was I to know how much was involved. Clearly it is not a beginner's model. Nonetheless not knowing what I was getting into I forged ahead using the painfully sparse directions. The model stands now with some serious flaws largely due to my failure to properly shape the frame members close to the decking. Planking using itsy bitsy nails was impossible so I resorted to soaking them in boiling water and forming them over whatever cookware seemed to have the closest tighter curvature and let them dry. Gluing followed. Once finished it will be a treasured if imperfect gift for my son. I am left awestruck by the masterwork of others who have shared photographs of their work on this site. Some of the vessels are frankly hard to even imagine building from scratch. To me even forming up  decent looking oars is quite a challenge particularly when trying to get them to match. Anyway it is reasuring that there is such a wealth of experience, talent, and knowledge available to those of us just beginning to build model vessels. It is a remarkably interesting and challenging endeavor. 
 
Best regards,
 
Duncan Coolidge

I also made my own using Druxey's published idea and pictures.  I experience the same finish results and restrictions pointed out by Wefalck and Druxey,  The greatest problem is getting the blade for the tracer to be fine enough to allow a precise copy.  I am in the process of modifying my tracer rod to accept interchangeable blades which will be ground with a left flat, right flat etc.  This will not eliminate the 'rounding' issue needed on the tracer blade but will make it a little more precise.  Not great for smaller jobs but work fine for larger copies such as columns/pedestals etc.
 
Note this design removes the need to free the cross slide as the cutting tool is ground to match the blade and is part of the duplicator.  The template is held within the duplicator also as shown.  I have also redesigned the way it is fitted to the bench since I took these photos. It now sits on a much longer aluminium base plate drilled with equally spaced holes  (matched to the current mounting slot space) allowing me to better place it relative to the work.  I have invested in some travellers and jackstand to support longer work also.  The longer baseplate has also allowed me to utilise it to support an off lathe 'stop'.  I am still adapting that to hold a micrometer head to allow repeated cuts to the stop.  PLEASE ignore my learning 'whoopsie evident on the Y table - hence my need for a stop  - major embarrassment)



 
cheers
 
Pat

It wasn't so bad as the sherline is so good to use. You just get into an automatic mindset... Plus it really helped with the outside holes when attaching the crows feet thingys though as ever I should have gone for a larger hole as I had to widen before the thread would pass..

Only  a tiny update as I steadily prep the masts. Mass gluing with little clamps
 

 
and then using a mill to drill the holes for the rigging in the tops. To get the hole location I traced the outer angle of the top on a piece of paper then marked the holes. I then cut the outer shape with scissors laid the template on the top and pushed through with a sharp point.
 

So I redid the bowspit. I had 'stained' the mast (as I have done with previous kits) and was not entirely delighted with the results. When stained it was a little too dark (and grubby) whereas when unstained the standard dowels where too white. After asking for some advice here I ordered some Castello boxwood (lemonwood) and  resolved to size it myself. This will be a long winded post as I intend to go into exhaustive detail into something that doesn't need it.
 
First up I cut my 1*1 sticks down to something that could be more easily sized. Here is the blank next to one of my earlier test bowsprits
 

Next I secured it on my lathe Using a 4 adjustable jaw chuck, which isn't ideal but unavoidable with a rectangular shape.
 

The next thing to have ready is the correct tool for the job. When I first sized the kit dowels I had tried to use my favourite sizing tool but it was actually a little too unweildy for the job. This time I searched for a more useful tool. At the bottom is the incorrect and the top the correct.
 

So first up is to roughly make it a cylinder larger than the thickest size using the default sizing tool (shown at the bottom of the photo)
 

 
I then thinned the end to 6mm before marking the correct locations using a pencil whilst the lathe spun slowly
 

Next up I sized the section from the end to the thickest section in the middle
 

 
Before using a fine sandpaper to improve the finish
 

 
Here is the 'finished' end
 

 
Next up I flipped the bowsprit around (the lathe is not long enough to do the entire thing in one 'sweep'
 

Though this did allow me to use the more accurate simultaneous contracting 3 jawed holder
 

Once sized down with the rough paring tool I switched to a thinner tool that allows exact lines to be created
 

 
And showing the result as the cap section is reduced
 

So here is almost the completed bowsprit
 

For the little extra bits I found using a particular tweezer style useful
 

I could then hold my finger under the wood and run a file over the end to 'angle' those bits that needed angling
 

Some did not and just needed to be rectangular for these I followed the wise rule of start large and then reduce to fit. I tended to cut with a scalpel then tidy with a file.
 

 
Next up I tried the wolding. For this kit I am using black thread for the standing rigging though I might well switch to dark brown for my next model. Anyway I am also trying to avoid my heavy use of superglue and very simple half hitches. So I will be trying to use knots in preference to glue. This may or may not work and I think the jury is out currently though I will get a better impression when some of the blocks are added
 
I started by masking taping one end of my thread to a spare area then winding the thread around
 

 
I then masking taped a section close to the off cut bit (but not near the actual end as I would need to use that)
 

 
I then took the spare end and threaded it under the existing loops and around the top loose piece before moving back again
 

And rope bit done
 

 
 
 
Shuffling around made this tidier but the extra thickness of two ropes in one section did generate a bulge. I have placed this under the jib boom so it wont be that obvious but if I repeat this process on the masts then I may cut a small groove to contain the under thread to avoid this (and help keep things tight).
 
I then gathered the relevant parts (including painted card) for the bands
 

These were cut into strips and wrapped around. The close up makes things look worse than they actually look (and next time I will paint the sides of the strips before attaching. For this I have to paint the sides carefully post install which is harder and is the next job from here)
 

 
Anyway even I am tired now. Next up I have to tidy the wolding before starting on blocks for the jib boom and bowsprit.
 
IMG_3829.CR2

Put on the bulkheads and then looked at the waterline. I have had lots of difficulties in the past but finally have a method I am comfortable with.
 
Firstly I mark onto the hull 2-3 locations taken from the plans and then use a coving laser to indicate a line between these points making sure the ship is as level as I can make it
 
I then check the indicated line by using calipers against the plan
 

 
which can then be placed directly agains the model to check the line
 

 
Finally I use masking tape to indicate the line itself as it is easier to adjust around to the shape
 

 
After that I used copper tape as an experiment. I have used it before on my Triton cross section and there had used the tape itself on one side and the tape plus paper backing on the other. Now of the two the version with the paper backing looked better but after three or so years started to come off whereas the tape on own lasted. I must admit to still not being entirely happy with the tape on own but think I can correct this later with smaller sections. My process here was to make a little jig to mark the plate size and to cut a strip of copper. I then used the jig to score the copper with the back of a scalpel. Once done I then used a ponce wheel to mark down the left and bottom sides of the plate. When attaching I eventually worked out it was better to keep continuous pressure and push down with the other hand. Any looseness causes slight wrinkles.
 
My photos of that were not good so I will try and generate some better ones later. After this I have just started on the planking and here is a 'moody' (read unfocsed) shot of the deck with some king planks I had just cut. You will notice the lines across the deck, these approximate to the expected locations of the beams.
 

 
I will do another post soon on the deck planking plan. Cheers for reading
 

I also nitpick my own work heavily.
 
I have learned over the years that dismantling a model and rebuilding it usually doesn’t have a happy ending.
 
If you want the same vessel, you would likely be better off buying a second kit.
 
I typically add mistakes to my lessons learned file and apply those lessons to my next build.

As the others said, it's probably possible, but you might as well build a new one again. Then, all you have to do it  put it together. No need to take it apart first. Taking one apart and rebuilding it is sort of like re-marrying your ex-wife, don't you think?
 
Besides, blowing up old models you don't like anymore is why God made cherry bombs and M-80's!  
 

I concur with the above -"you do not really want to this"  advice.   To quote Chris Rock: "sure you can do it, but that don't make it is a good idea."
 
With such seeming ambition, you might consider further what Matrim suggested.  Come over to the dark side and scratch build.
Are there not close to home plans sources in Sweden and Denmark for locally significant vessels that have never been modeled or
at least not done to death?

The skills will come back to you as you progress Joss; bit like riding a bike after putting it in the garage for many years   The tops look great, must have been a tedious process doing all that drilling?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks though I still think it leaves a lot to be desired. I am a great believer in incremental improvement. Though a lot of people here are true craftsman who have the talent to produce something amazing I also think you need the time to repeatedly replace errant objects and much like Software Development completing a project is as much a positive feature as anything else in the hobby. As an example take those gratings. I shall hold my breath and show a photo of my first full models gratings (the Diana also from Caldercraft)
 

as can be seen it uses the clever slotting pieces in the kit but the finish and the cutting of the surrounding wood is not good, to put it mildly. Now since I look to improve (a little bit at least) the gratings in this model should be better than that (as they are at the same scale). So here are a couple of shots of the completed
 

 

I am happy to say I think I have improved but again can see more room for improvement next time.
 
I was also curious at the difference the scale made. Previous to this model I made the Triton cross section and the due to the increased size the gratings there were both easier and smarter
 

 
the planking in this last shot also used the caulk method that failed to work with this model.

I am with Matrim on this.  If you try to tear it down you will inevitably damage some parts ,and taking the planking off would be very difficult.  
 
However I would also recommend you continue building this one first so that you get further practice and identify any further issues/problems etc you may encounter wirth building the full model (parts you have not yet done).  That way you won't run into the problem of rebuilding the hull to a much better standard, and then potentially be unhappy with the masting and rigging as that will be the first attempt at that on your new model (hull).  I am assuming that you have completed the hul and not the masting and rigging?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Interesting concept though I suspect you would damage a lot of the wood taking it apart. 
 
I think you would have more success  with a second model and using the first to improve skills. Or go and scratch build where you can re-make the same part ten times until you are happy.
 
 

Interesting concept though I suspect you would damage a lot of the wood taking it apart. 
 
I think you would have more success  with a second model and using the first to improve skills. Or go and scratch build where you can re-make the same part ten times until you are happy.
 
 

Interesting concept though I suspect you would damage a lot of the wood taking it apart. 
 
I think you would have more success  with a second model and using the first to improve skills. Or go and scratch build where you can re-make the same part ten times until you are happy.
 
 

Interesting concept though I suspect you would damage a lot of the wood taking it apart. 
 
I think you would have more success  with a second model and using the first to improve skills. Or go and scratch build where you can re-make the same part ten times until you are happy.
 
 

Interesting concept though I suspect you would damage a lot of the wood taking it apart. 
 
I think you would have more success  with a second model and using the first to improve skills. Or go and scratch build where you can re-make the same part ten times until you are happy.
 
 

Lou....It was giving me a heart attack....literally, way too much stress and labor with zero benefit.   Only about a dozen or so people bought them.   You know, those few guys hung up on only building in 100% pear.  It wasnt worth it.  I couldnt justify buying so much pearwood to keep around the shop and have two kinds of blocks in stock.  It takes too long to make them.   24 sizes and configurations of pear blocks..(1000's of pear blocks takes time and then they just sit there)...those few people were really asking a lot when they wanted me to keep making them.   Some havent stopped holding a grudge about it either.  They didnt care that I had to spend $1000 to buy a slab of pearwood that half was bad and thrown away,   then I had to pay to have it milled,   then I had make 24 variations so a few people could buy $50 worth of blocks every two years.
 
As far as the special runs and custom jobs.... What I have learned over the last six years doing this is that those guys who ask for special orders and custom jobs with special wood.  The ones that want you spend hours and $$$$ doing something on the side....those guys dont buy much in the end, if much at all.  You know the guys.....everything asked for is preceded with "this shouldnt be too hard or take long for you to do".   They spend peanuts yet they do the most asking and the most moaning.   So for piece of mind and less stress I just stopped making the stuff and consolidated my inventory for the other 97%  of my customers.  Because they would literally spend $25 bucks a year and thought they were doing me the favor.   It was just getting ridiculous and I was close to having a heart attack.
 
Mix it up a bit and use the boxwood blocks.   They also stain beautifully so it really doesnt matter.   To really take your model to the next level....try dyeing them black or dark brown as David Antscherl does.  You should have a look at his rigging on Comet or Resolution.  Beautiful stuff.
 
Chuck

I looked at all the suggestions, Age of Sail has the 3mm hooks, but it also includes the deadeye strops at a small quatity (10). The Dafinismus.de web site has a large sheet of hooks with many sizes that  I do not need. In fact it does not look like any of them are the correct size.
I need about 75 to 100 hooks depending on how many go flying into the lost parts hole.
 
Thanks everyone.
 
 

I found a piece of brass tube whose outside diameter fitted the dust port (I had to flare the end out slightly for a tight fit) and the other end fits the hose of my shop vacuum. Works well.

I found this in the local hardware store for AUD $9.98. It’s a reasonably soft rubber and you just cut the section to fit both the dust post on the saw and the vaccum hose. I use a Festool CTL 26 and it works like a charm.

 
 

This is the adapter that I use.  It can be found at Lowe's and Home Depot for under $10.00.  I cut off the large end (right side in picture) flush with the flange and insert it into my dust port on my Byrnes Saw.  It makes a tight fit.
 

I have had good results using the rubber plumbing connectors shown below to adapt different diameters to my vacuum cleaner