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Rebuild a ship model kit?


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Hi

If I build a huge kit, example Danmark from Billing boats, and after five years I want to rebuild it because I then think I could build it better.

How much of the material could I reuse if I tear it down?

And how much would the new material cost, approx?

 

 

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My idea

 

because I then think I could build it better

I have this problem with every model that I build. Once it is finisht, errors pop up. :blush: I learn from my mistakes and try not to do them anymore in the next model.

 

How much of the material could I reuse if I tear it down?

That depends on how much you want to change. 

 

And how much would the new material cost, approx?

Dont now, but buying a new kit and starting over is probably the cheapest, I think.

 

 

 

 

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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Interesting concept though I suspect you would damage a lot of the wood taking it apart. 

 

I think you would have more success  with a second model and using the first to improve skills. Or go and scratch build where you can re-make the same part ten times until you are happy.

 

 

...

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I also nitpick my own work heavily.

 

I have learned over the years that dismantling a model and rebuilding it usually doesn’t have a happy ending.

 

If you want the same vessel, you would likely be better off buying a second kit.

 

I typically add mistakes to my lessons learned file and apply those lessons to my next build.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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I am with Matrim on this.  If you try to tear it down you will inevitably damage some parts ,and taking the planking off would be very difficult.  

 

However I would also recommend you continue building this one first so that you get further practice and identify any further issues/problems etc you may encounter wirth building the full model (parts you have not yet done).  That way you won't run into the problem of rebuilding the hull to a much better standard, and then potentially be unhappy with the masting and rigging as that will be the first attempt at that on your new model (hull).  I am assuming that you have completed the hul and not the masting and rigging?

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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As the others said, it's probably possible, but you might as well build a new one again. Then, all you have to do it  put it together. No need to take it apart first. Taking one apart and rebuilding it is sort of like re-marrying your ex-wife, don't you think? :D

 

Besides, blowing up old models you don't like anymore is why God made cherry bombs and M-80's! :D 

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
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I concur with the above -"you do not really want to this"  advice.   To quote Chris Rock: "sure you can do it, but that don't make it is a good idea."

 

With such seeming ambition, you might consider further what Matrim suggested.  Come over to the dark side and scratch build.

Are there not close to home plans sources in Sweden and Denmark for locally significant vessels that have never been modeled or

at least not done to death?

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I'm currently restoring a (scratch) model I made when I was 17, started to change, and then left to deteriorate for 40 years. Because I wanted to change the hull shape (the stern was too wide) it ended up more as a rebuild. I'm a fair way through it and I intend to complete it come what may, but I really wouldn't recommend it, from grim personal experience. The only reason I'm doing it is that I feel it deserves to be finished after all this time.

 

If you're not happy with the result of your kit and you want to make it better, I'd recommend you buy a new one rather than pull it apart and rebuild.

 

Steven 

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