Glen McGuire

Sorry to hear the whole crew is sick. Hope y'all get done with that covid mess quickly.

Thanks, Keith. I emailed Carson the link to this build log after I made the first post. He replied back after reading the post so I know he's keeping an eye on things. I don't expect him to be an MSW junkie like the rest of us hopeless people, but I do think he will look in from time to time.

The warm up is over. It's time to jump on top of the bull and see if we can ride this thing out. The first real step in this project is also the one that makes me the most nervous - fixing the broken bowsprit assembly. A lot can go wrong when you try to deconstruct something with drills and reamers and chisels and such. Here's what it looked like starting out. My first thought was to cut the bowsprit, drill it completely out, and then replace it entirely. But I was nervous about a slip of the hand and damaging the bowhead or deck or grating, etc. So I decided on this plan: cut the bowsprit down as close as possible to where it submerges beneath the deck, then use a dowel rod to connect the new bowsprit to what remains of the original one. Here's what it looked like after making the cut and drilling the dowel hole. I managed to do my drilling and reaming with only a slight bit of damage to the end of the gunwale, which will be an easy cleanup later. Here's the new bowsprit blank connected by dowel rod to the original (dry-fit). You can see a small, unwanted notch on the top of the original bowsprit where the reamer bit got away from me for an instant. However, I plan to hide the notch as well as the entire junction between the bowsprit pieces with gammoning rope. Now for construction of the new bowsprit. I'm using the Blue Jacket instructions for reference, but they are not very detailed. Fortunately for me, @KurtH has a very nice build log for this kit with a lot of helpful photos. Plus, his finished model in a thing of beauty. So I am using it for additional reference. The bowsprit has a lot going on, but nothing too difficult. Here's the new bowsprit with components added - cap, bee blocks, hoops, forestay cleats, and jib boom step. The most interesting things to build were the bee blocks. For the sheaves, I used 5mm deadeyes and sanded them down to fit in their slots. I liked the deadeyes because they already had a groove cut down the middle and look perfect for a rope to slide through. As Kurt mentions in his build log, the kit does not supply a fairlead. For his fairlead, Kurt said he ordered a spare spider ring from Blue Jacket. I'm too impatient to wait for an order and delivery so I roughed one out with basswood. I think Kurt's looks better, but mine should work ok. The last step for the new bowsprit was making the dolphin striker. The cap is still a bit oversized, but will be sanded down when I figure out exact positioning for the jib boom and flying jib boom. The bowsprit is still dry-fit in the pics below.

I love the rusting effects on the anchors. That's a nice touch and very well done, Steven.

You are cracking me up, Bryan!! 🤣 The answer to your question is YES! Those whale boats are gargantuan!! And get this - I can drop things on the floor and actually look down and find them without having to spend 30 minutes searching with a magnifying glass and spot light.

Thank you so much to @Keith Black, @Knocklouder, @Paul Le Wol, @FriedClams, @Bryan Woods, @Canute, @tmj, @hollowneck, @GrandpaPhil for the kind words. Whether its our own model or someone else's it's a labor of love for all of us that do this work, isn't it! I found another Constitution build log that I will be referring to repeatedly throughout this project. The build log was posted by @usedtosail (Tom). It's a Model Shipways kit, which no doubt has variations compared to the Blue Jacket kit I'm working with, but his model is so well done, I want to mirror some aspects of it. Plus, on the very first post of the log, Tom inserted an index with links to all the various parts of the build. That is incredibly helpful for someone like me. Thank you, Tom! https://modelshipworld.com/topic/5003-uss-constitution-by-usedtosail-finished-model-shipways-scale-176/ For the next step, I turned my attention to the ship's boats. With this Blue Jacket kit, there are 3 whale boats - 2 that hang from davits on each side near the quarter galleries and 1 that hangs from the stern. On the spar deck, there is a launch boat and a pinnace. As mentioned earlier, the davits are in need of repair. Before I do that and rehang the boats, I wanted to add a complement of oars to each boat to give them a bit more detail. Borrowing from Tom's build log, I made the oar handles and paddles separately and then joined them together. The handles started out as 2.5mm diameter bamboo toothpicks. I narrowed them to 1.5mm, cut a paddle slot in one end and notched the tip of the handle on the other end. For the paddles, I took a 0.4mm planking strip, drew a bunch of paddles on it, and cut them out. The pic below shows the various stages of construction and one assembled oar. Here's all the oars assembled and ready for staining. The longer ones will go inside the launch boat and pinnace. Next was adding some oar locks to the whale boats. These were made from bits of basswood for a base and tiny brass nails for the oarlock itself. Here are the whale boats with the finished oars in place and lashed down, followed by the launch boat and pinnace. And the last thing I did this week was paint the inside of the gun port lids. This version of the Constitution has split lids that open vertically. According to the Blue Jacket instructions, they needed to be white, which I think makes a nice look. I also had to make a couple of new upper lids that I found were missing.

Dang, Grant. So sorry to hear about the difficulties you have been going through. My prayers for you finding peace and a positive way forward.

I look forward to reading that article when it comes out!

Looking at the water tank ladder you reference on post 224, I think the touch of black grunge is very well done. I often run into the same issue on really small details of my SIB ships. Some details I do for my own satisfaction and don't care if they can't be seen without 6x glasses. But If I want the detail to be somewhat noticeable, I'll go a little brighter/darker/thicker whatever with the paint to make it stand out just a bit. I think you found a nice middle ground with that ladder grunge where it's noticeable and a nice detail if you look close, but it does not jump out and scream "HEY LOOK AT ME!" (which is probably what you don't want).

Nice demo, Tom. Thanks for posting.

Whoa! That is amazing work, Ron!

That's a great story, Ron. Thanks for sharing. I'm hoping my work here is worthy of a similar reaction!

My guiding principle for this project is, “First, do no harm”. As I work through the repairs and additional construction, I don’t want to mess up any of the fine work that Carson’s father accomplished. I decided to kick things off with something that seemed fairly benign. The gun deck is equipped with thirty 24-pound cannons. As you can see from the pic below, the barrels are still solid and had not been drilled out yet. The barrels are made from Britannia metal so I figured they would be fairly easy to drill out. The 24-pound cannons have a bore of 5.8 inches, which at 1/96 makes a 1/16” drill bit pretty close. It was a little awkward drilling the barrels with them installed and sticking out the gun ports, but it went ok for the most part. I say for the most part because a few of them came loose and popped out. That’s when I realized that there were not individual cannons on the gun deck. The barrels have a post on the breach end that fits into a hole drilled into some solid wood inside the gun deck. Ironically, that is pretty much the method I use for my ship-in-bottle ships like the Independence that have gun decks with cannon barrels protruding through the gun ports. The cannon barrels here that popped out were very easy to drill out and reinstall with a bit of wood filler. Here's what it looks like with all the cannon barrels back in place and repainted. The spar deck has much smaller cannonades, 18 pounders I believe. Their barrels have not been drilled out either. However, as you can see in the picture above, they are set back from the gun ports on the gunwale. And for all but a couple, the channel is in the way so it would take a very long and very thin drill bit (probably 1/32" or maybe 3/64") to try and bore those barrels out. The cannonades are all glued to the deck quite securely with complete rigging, so removing them and reinstalling is not an option. So I will probably leave them as is and not risk damage to the surrounding areas by trying to do some heroic drilling.

That's a great looking ship, Chris. Hard to believe it's made out of card!

Fine work, Rob. As usual! That bell is particularly well done.

The boxcar red on the shed is spot on, IMO. And I would love to have a business card I could hand to people that said I was a "Donkeyman"!

Love those baskets! Really nice work, especially the weaving on the second one.

PFC Pile and cousin Goober are a talented pair. Not many seamen could take the ship out for a spin when there are no sails yet!

That shed looks great, Keith! Well done so far.

A couple of months ago, @Keith Black sent me this MSW post from a gentleman in Austin, Texas who was looking for help completing a model. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36787-looking-for-assistance-completing-model/ Since I also live in Austin, Keith thought this might be of some interest to me. He was right. The gentleman, Carson, was looking for someone to complete a model his father had been working on before unexpectedly passing away late last year. He and his family were hoping to have the model completed as a way to honor and remember their father. I contacted Carson, found out more about the model, and agreed to finish it up for them. I picked up the model earlier this week and have just started to examine it and the kit's documentation. I will also be studying some of the Constitution build logs out here on MSW. Once I get my arms around the whole thing, I’ll put together a plan for how to attack this project. The model is the Blue Jacket Bicentennial Edition of the U.S.S. Constitution. Carson’s father had done a significant amount of very nice work on the model - completing the hull, outfitting both the gun and spar decks, stepping the masts, and completing the complex bowsprit rigging. It appears he was on the verge of diving into the real fun that goes with all the standing and running rigging. Somewhere along the way, the model took some hits and suffered a bit of damage. But just like the real Old Ironsides, the model survived with the hull intact and just a few repairs needed. So this project will be a repair job at first followed by completion of the construction. For repairs, here’s what I’m seeing on initial review: 1. The most significant damage is to the bowsprit which is broken in a couple of places. 2. The sky sail pole on the main mast was broken at some point but has been repaired to a degree. 3. The davits for ship’s boats on both sides are broken off. 4. The masts have been stepped, but the glue bond on the fore and main has come undone, so they will need to be re-stepped at the proper rake. 5. The netting for the hammock storage has some minor dings. Other than that, I believe, the model is in good shape and I hope to complete the model in a way that properly honors Carson's father. I know there are many folks here on MSW that have extensive experience with the Constitution and perhaps the Blue Jacket kit itself. So please do not hesitate to offer comments, critiques, and suggestions. I welcome it all. Following are pictures that show the current state of the model. I’ll start with my favorite which shows all the damage to the bowsprit assembly. Yet Old Glory survives and still waves proudly above it all!

Fantastic job on that net! Very well done and your choice of material was spot on.

"DonKeith Oaty". I'm dying!!! 🤣🤣🤣

Yes, Keith! Definitely a better shade of boxcar red. At least for my eye.

That's what we do!

I think the burnt sienna is too brown if you are trying for boxcar red. I envision it more red than brown like the pics below. I would do a base of a reddish-brown (a bit more more red than brown) and add some weathering techniques.