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Glen McGuire

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Everything posted by Glen McGuire

  1. Welcome aboard from a fellow Texan!
  2. I think the trim is black, but a weathered or faded black. Really nice job on the LULA lettering, Keith. I've got a feeling that was a whole lot more difficult to do than it looks.
  3. I call BS on that, Bryan! I've seen your work and it is high quality with great attention to detail. Don't underestimate yourself! Thanks, Mark. I could not solder a lick before I started ship modeling a few years ago. I continue to be amazed at how many different skills you have to learn to be able to do this hobby!!
  4. Well Pat, in the absence of Bundy here in central Texas, I settled for a few tots of Ol' Sailor Jerry's fine spirits! Glad you are checking in, Carson! Slowly but surely the team here is gettin' it done!! And now on to the studding sail booms (I always thought they were called yardarms but I seem to have been mistaken about that). There are 8 yards that have studding sail booms - The lower 3 on the fore and main masts, and then the 2nd and 3rd lowest yards on the mizzen. The crojack yard is not so equipped. The booms are offset forward at a 45 degree angle to the vertical plane of the yard as it hands from the mast. Each boom is held in place by passing through 2 rings called studding sail irons. The inner iron looks like a figure 8 with a portion of the bottom cut off forming a saddle that rests on the yard. The outer iron is a simple ring attached to a rod bent at a 90 degree angle that feeds into a hole in the end of the yard. I used brass tubes and wire for my irons. I started with brass tubes of various inside diameters. Of course none of them quite matched the diameter of my booms, so I had to drill out each of them to fit. The rings below are for the fore mast yards. Next, I cut pieces of brass tube in half to make the lower half of the inner iron that will rest saddle-like on the yard. Next step - soldering the top and bottom half of the inner irons together. Next, I soldered a small piece of brass wire to each ring for the outer irons. Here's a closeup of 1 pair of irons dry-fit (before I bent the wire on the outer iron). Here are the foremast yards with the booms and irons in place and the irons painted black. And a final closeup. The fat end of the boom will be lashed to the yard, which is next on my to-do list.
  5. Fantastic build, Bryan! Everything is very clean and looks top notch. The crew was a nice added touch, too. Well done, sir!
  6. I am very sorry to hear about the passing of your friend, Rodney. My sincere condolences to you and family.
  7. Y'all better send a gorilla along with that gorilla glue. I ain't getting near that bull in his current mood! Can't wait to see those newly painted longhorns and the ferris wheel that your niece is working on!
  8. I have reached a major milestone on this project - all of the standing rigging is complete! WOOHOO!!! The stays are taut (all 52 of them) and the masts are straight and aligned. That calls for another round! Next up is attaching the stuns'l booms to the yards, which means it's time to cozy up to the soldering iron.
  9. I believe that the medium blue-gray would fade to a more pale gray as the ships aged. So if you want a brand new look, I'd go more with the medium blue-gray. But if you want a more aged or weathered look, I'd go pale gray. My 2 cents.
  10. I think they should be called Flemish Longhorns rather than horses. But what do I know! As far as the crow's feet, the BlueJacket plans don't call for those so I didn't install them. Thanks, Keith. My goal was to make them look as good as yours on your Tennessee.
  11. Well, I took another look at the mast and spar diagram and realized the lower 3 yards on each mast have these little mini-foot ropes on the ends. I did a quick search and found that they are called Flemish Horses. Hmmm. Had not heard of them before. So I did a quick add.
  12. Well, I got to the end of my rope on this project. Literally. I ran out of cord for the stays, so I had to order more from BlueJacket. While waiting for the new line to arrive, I circled back to the yards and installed all the foot ropes. I've seen some people use thread for the stirrups and others use small eye pins. I particularly like the way the foot ropes look on @Keith Black's Tennessee so I decided on eye pins.
  13. I think that's good advice, Ian. The even trickier thing, which I did not mention above, was drilling tiny holes in the deck for the eye pins inside the fife rails at the base of the masts. Even my small pin vise was really difficult to position and work inside those tight confines. I guess what I should have done is read the instructions backwards at the start. Then I would've known where all those tie off points for the rigging are and could have put the eye pins and lanyards in place first. Too late now!
  14. Having none of Keith's eloquence, I can only recite song lyrics to show how I'm feeling doing all these stays "Whether you're a brother or whether you're a mother, You're stayin' alive, stayin' alive. Feel the city breakin' and everybody shakin', And we're stayin' alive, stayin' alive Ah, ha, ha, ha, stayin' alive, stayin' alive, Ah, ha, ha, ha, stayin' alive" OK. Enough of that! I finished off the topmast stays by rigging the main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay, followed by the mizzen topmast stay and mizzen topmast preventer stay. The main topmast stay and preventer stays run from the main topmast to eyebolts on the foremast above the fore mast top, down the foremast to bullseye lanyards inside the fife rail. Here's the mizzen topmast stay and preventer stay rigged basically the same. The only difference is the stay runs through an eyebolt above the main mast top and the preventer stay runs through an eyebolt below the main mast top. Again, both are tied off to bullseye lanyards inside the fife rail. It was a bit tricky tying the lanyards inside the tight confines of the fife rails, backstays, shrouds, etc. Had I know more what about I was doing, I might have done some things in a different order.
  15. This part of the build reminds me of an old Gospel song by Cristy Lane called, "One Day at a Time, Sweet Jesus", with the lyrics adapted to fit ship modeling: "One stay at a time, sweet Jesus, that's all I'm asking of you. Just give me the strength to do everyday what I have to do Yesterday's gone, sweet Jesus, and tomorrow may never be mine. Lord help me today. Show me the way. One stay at a time" Today's focus was the fore topmast stay and for topmast preventer stay. They are both tied off with a loop at the fore top mast above the layers of loops from the breast backstays, topmast shrouds, etc. The fore topmast stay runs from the topmast to the bowsprit, is reeved through the starboard bowsprit bee, and travels the beside the bowsprit to where it's tied off to a bullseye inside the bow head. The fore topmast preventer stay does the same thing on the port side. Here's how they look after installation. Lots more stays to go!
  16. I assume that is the voice of experience I'm hearing? Thanks, Bob. Based on the answer I got from the question I posted on the Masts, Rigging and Sails forum, I tied off the block rigging for the breast backstays above the double block similar to how deadeye rigging is tied off. Here's how they look starting with the blocks being stropped. Here are the breast backstays in place. The breast backstays kind of blend in with the shrouds, but they are the block rigging with a double on top and triple below. The stays run from the double blocks to the junctions of the top gallant masts and the royal masts.
  17. Tell your niece not to feel bad. Broken horns happen from time to time. My young (but large) steer Shiloh, got thru the fence and had a little confrontation with his daddy. Not sure what they were arguing about, but daddy bull ended up with both his horns broke off clean at the skull. Here's daddy bull, afterwards, and he is not in a very good mood. At least the horns on yours can be fixed. This poor guy got polled the hard way and the horns ain't coming back!
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