Snug Harbor Johnny
-
Posts
1,350 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Snug Harbor Johnny
-
Super! I should have thought of bead craft supplies that abound in local stores these days. They'd have fine chain, small tools and stuff. I think that seed beads would be OK for use as pulleys on a 1:150 scale clipper (an Academy plastic kit having extended yards for the studding sails). Somewhat larger ones could do for deadeyes - yet to hand tie ratlines so small may try my aging fingers, so perhaps I'll just glue them in place with CA applied with a toothpick.
-
Perhaps the surface needs some 'tooth' prior to finishing - a careful rubbing with ultra-fine sandpaper (600 grit? there are some finer than that). -
The Cutty Sark builder's specs (Willis) and the early photo support that she was built with split top sails, and modifications continued after that - with many ways to rig in the late 19th century. It's all fascinating.
- 399 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- cutty sark
- revell
- (and 2 more)
-
I have a small hobby 'heat sealing' iron - the kind that can be used to set (or loosen) seams in wallpaper, and is also used for shrinking plastic skin over RC model airplane wings and fuselages. It has a temperature control knob, and should work for heat-softening planking wood for model ships ! I suppose a slight moistening before ironing wouldn't hurt, since the heat will drive most of it off - the wood isn't 'soaked' for any length of time. I have to confess that when I did the planking on the Wasa (quite a few years ago), the curvature of the bow was the hardest to contend with ... so I put the end of the plank in my mouth where warm saliva and the action of tongue, palate and teeth caused enough bend to make the plank cooperate for a significant bend. There was a 'knack' for telling how far to 'push' the plank and avoid breakage. I'd let the wood dry and the bend would set before I glued it in place.
-
Much earlier in the log is a link to an important photo of the Cutty Sark: https://viewer.slv.vic.gov.au/?entity=IE930286&mode=browse This may be one of the first modifications to her rigging after her days as a Tea Clipper (a relatively short period in her career due to the opening of the Suez Canal). I found a photograph said to be Thermopylae early in her career (in a link from the Aberdeen Museum website with photos of her in many phases of existence all the way up to a shot of her being torpedoed), when she was rigged with four large sails on each mast and no extra yards. I have doubts on this photo under sail (attribution wise) on a couple of points; There is a 'triple' dolphin striker not seen on any other Thermie picture, There is no yellow rub strake where there should be one, There is an extra white painted strake below a white painted gun wale that the Thermie didn't have. But the photo does show a common way to rig an early Clipper. Many fine ships were rigged differently in each phase of their existence (the 'Big T' was bark rigged at one point), and I suppose that its fair to model a ship as she was at any phase ... there being no single "correct" configuration.
- 399 replies
-
- 7
-
-
- cutty sark
- revell
- (and 2 more)
-
Ratlines: Start and End
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to Jonathan_219's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
'Looks good to me. Another option might be to use a knot we did in Scouting to tie a tent rope to a post or a tent peg- the line is passed around for an overhand half-hitch (for tents or dining flys it was spaced away from the post or peg to allow for later shortening or lengthening of the attachment, but for the end shroud it would be right against the shroud), then the line is wrapped twice underhand and snugged. For shroud application the end would stick inboard and be less visible. If time and convenience are not an issue, the end could be a little longer and lashed vertically against the shroud with find thread. I'll have to look-up a cow hitch (new to me). BTW, is there a source for the 'pear shaped' (triangular?) deadeyes? 'Seems the Wasa had them and if I'm going to finish it, I'd like to get the proper shape for the time period. Ahoy! -
'I see,' said the blind man. Then he picked up his hammer and saw. 'Guess that research into whatever ship one is interested in is 'key' ... and there is so much that can be found on-line with patient gleaning (and a critical eye). I've learned more about the Wasa and the Thermopylae in the past month than I knew from all my years before - and the expertise on this forum (and the build logs) are invaluable.
-
I'm viewing builds by others and getting great ideas that will help me re-start my old half-done Billings Wasa. You've shown many good techniques ... thanks!
-
I was aboard the U.S.S. Constellation in Baltimore harbor in the 70s, and bought a medallion (a fundraiser) as a pass for unlimited future visiting - although I haven't returned since. I'm told the Navy 'repaired' her in the 1850s, since it was easier to get funding for refurbishment than to build a new ship - yet what they did was to effectively re-build her as a new ship (staying 'under the radar'). That's why the present incarnation is a lot different than the original ship, and the model likely is likely closer to the original vessel. Its looking good so far !
-
I've reviewed your build thus far and am impressed by the care and craftsmanship you exhibit. It is an inspiration for me to better my intermediate (at best) technique, yet in this line we all must chart our own course. Doing the best we can , within practical limits, can be a source of satisfaction one can't put a price on.
-
Ratlines: Start and End
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to Jonathan_219's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I suppose you could use a taught line hitch. -
I single planked the Billings (original version) Wasa in the 70s, and was mostly happy with it (although one of the bulkheads was a little 'fat' and produced a slight bulge at that point - which I've seen on other builds of the old kit. I'm taking it up again to finish, with a little surgery to make the model conform to what is NOW know of the original ship. Yet I wonder (and one naval historian sees merit in the argument) if the the original Wasa DID have a forecastle deck covering the capstan and with armaments above - since the hull is planked high enough in that area (per the ship itself in Stockholm) to have had a deck. Why would there be railings there if a deck was not envisioned, and why would the front be open to breaking seas (apart from a flimsy fence) that would wash down the main gun deck? The reconstructed stern is definitely higher than on my old model, and more weight and height above the waterline would have contributed to her top heaviness. Edit to the above march 23rd, 2022 I'm inclined now to think that the forecastle deck was NOT built on the Vasa due to the modifications to her imposed on the builders that made her unstable (even if one had originally been planned) ... simply because the addition of the fore deck (common to ships of that era) could have made her unlikely to sail away from the build site as she was 'tippy' enough without any additional weight above the weather deck. The marvelous restoration in Stockholm is how the Vasa was done, and the 1/10 museum model is now painted as close as experts can determine how the original looked on her fateful maiden voyage.
-
It looks like there are a few 'low spots' in the first planking. Fixing that before going further should help. I've used 'one minute' epoxy in the past (this was before CA was available, and I had to be quick mixing and applying) and held a plank in place using the long fingers of both hands ... and half-listening, half-watching the TV while the 'set' of the bonding agent firmed. Still, the quality of the fairing will determine the quality of the final planking.
-
I'm a fan of yours (only just joined the forum, though) since I was viewing Billings Wasa builds not too long ago and saw many of your useful comments. My Wasa is an old kit my Dad gave me as a teen in the 70s, and despite not knowing what I was doing, got through the hull planking and rough deck installation. College interrupted work, and now as a retiree I see what was inaccurate in the original kit (tons have been learned in the decades since, so I do not fault Billing at all). I intend to finish it as an Admiralty model - so 2/3rds of the work is already done. Now my Dad first gave me a Revell 1:96 Cutty (which I had no trouble with) and then a Scientific 1:124 Cutty with a rough shaped solid hull - and I did OK on that, so he didn't just throw the Billing kit on me unprepared. I stumbled on your build of the Mantua 1:124 Thermopylae, and I plan on scratch building one in a slightly larger scale - likely either 1:111 or 1:96. I have the lines and scaled them to those sizes (as well as 1:124). I vastly prefer planking to carving, and can make as many bulkheads as desired for ease of fairing - with the spaces in between the bulkheads filled with basswood with the grain running fore and aft for easy fairing. If I choose 1:96 (or thereabouts), I can get an old Revell kit (complete or not) to draw on certain components that are in the right scale like the bilge pump, wench, etc. My late Dad left me several kits that have a large number of useful parts and great planking. One kit he started, so is incomplete but great for parts. Two others I have no intention of building but will use the parts and wood. Another kit is a Steingraeber version of the Fair American, which I have extra info on, so eventually I'll try building it. I'm in no rush and still work per-diem as a hospital pharmacy tech.
Our Emblem ®
