Gregory

Here is one of the discussions I referred to: Of particular note is a link to high resolution photos of the model. Rigged model of a late 18th century naval Revenue Cutter Looking at the model, Petersson's book follows it very closely if not perfectly. Still, there is the question of whether or not the model was rigged accurately. If you go through that topic carefully, we found many differences between several models, and none of it necessarily wrong. In the end, if the rigging reflects what would make the ship sail as a ship is supposed to sail, I would say it's good.

Period Ship Models covers one model of a frigate. A typical 3 masted, fully rigged ship. Fore & Aft covers three models, one of which is an unnamed English cutter.

Something to keep in mind. Petersson is an artist rather than an authority on rigging. He drew some very good illustrations of what he observed on some contemporary models. There is no reason to believe the rigging on those models is completely accurate with regard to actual practice. We have had some discussions about some of the details of his books that seem questionable, however, for the most part the books seem to be reliable. I’ll provide a link later to a discussion about the model of the cutter in the “Fore & Aft” book. There are some high resolution photos of the model.

A good book of knots is good to have in your library, as well as books that explain the principles of rigging, however as others have mentioned, the type of knot is not as important as how tie off your rigging in a way that looks good at scale. Actual practice may not lend itself to realistic modeling. The size of your model rope and fittings will be your first consideration. Try to get that as accurate as possible. With Sherbourne I think your best reference for technique will be to look at some of the more detailed cutter builds here. HM Cutter Alert by Thukydides has a lot of detailed rigging information. I would also look at a couple of the Cheerful builds. In particular; Chuck's prototype and the build by Glenn Barlow. Chuck's rigging detail starts about here. Glenn's about here. You can also download the Cheerful instructions at the Syren Ship Model site . Scroll down the page to see "Download the Monograph chapters below!!!" Rigging starts in chapter 12. Last, but not least, if you really want to feel challenged, look at La Créole 1827 by archjofo. While the ship is quite different from a cutter, the builder, Johann, presents a lot of information of how to accomplish detailed rigging that looks like the real thing. A small example of Johann's work. You would have to sift through the log to see how he does those seizings and other details.

I haven't been completely idle since October, just lax in updating the log. I have resurrected my Resolution build and hopefully will get more enthused about Rattlesnake; perhaps switching back and forth as the mood suits me. I have mentioned more than once that I prefer the natural wood look, and I really don't enjoy painting. I am using some bloodwood to frame the gunports. I Created 1/8 bass fillers that go between the bulkheads, where I then lined the gun and oar ports with the bloodwood. The first planking below the wales is complete. Obviously I didn't go for beauty in this phase, but I feel I have a good base for the final planking. Above the wales will be essentially single plank. The two forward gun ports will be closed so they will not be framed. That's it for a while.

Any reason to believe colonial oars would have been significantly different for this time period?

They appear to be located in Belgium and have been around for a while.

Well, hard to believe it's been almost three years since I worked on Resolution. I was in the home stretch with rigging when the cat decided all that 'string' looked like something that needed special attention only a cat can give. The mast snapped right below the trestle trees, and fortunately nothing else actually came apart or broke. I feel pretty sure I can get the mast back in position and repaired without having to actually re-do any of the rigging that was already in place. I had just started the ratlines so I hope to be able to continue with that in the near future.

I like the bottle idea..

I would make a template from the plans then use it to make a brace with some scrap.

I have heard of gardenia, and we probably have some locally ( north Georgia ). I'll have to keep an eye out. It will be interesting to see how it looks and what you use it for. I think lot of slow growing ornamental shrubs/trees would be suitable for model making. They usually have a very tight straight grain. Pieces thicker than 2" are probably hard to come by, so your milling options would be limited.

For modeling purposes, it might be easier to rig the shrouds before placing the tops.

Here are some 1 x 30 belts at Amazon. You might consider making your own out of these. 1 x 30 inch Sanding Belt Pack

Starting from the top, I would guess: Oak Walnut Mahogany

I was responding to your post that mentioned builds, i.e. kits. I replied: The rest of my post suggested your response was indeed helpful. I apologize if I didn't make that clear.

Most of the builds are bound to kit materials. Deviating from that requires research such as yours and sourcing and preparing other materials.

I’m not in a good position to post links right now, but you might look at some logs for the Medway long boat, and the ModelExpo 18th Century long .

This is the cupola of my Resolution. It is copper leaf. Put it in a sandwich bag with boiled egg over night. (As you said, just the yolks would have worked.) Actually ended up a little darker than I would have liked, so a shorter time than overnight would have resulted in a good effect. It is easy to buff out if it gets too dark. I can't imagine why anyone would go to the trouble of using some kind of brush-on chemical aging process.

I would like to se a picture of the bend referred to. I'm trying to imagine a "sharp" bend at the bow of Lady Nelson.

Rules are for when someone messes up and gets caught, you can read the rules at their trial.

The only item in index regarding hammocks is about storage at night.

Any good wood-working glue should qualify as " Best " . Planking method is just as important as the glue you use. If the plank is shaped properly you can get by with relatively short clamping times. Titebond original sets up in about 30 minutes, but still recommends overnight to cure. The different versions of Titebond have different purposes, but they all glue wood together very well. Titebond The most trouble you will have is when you have a straight plank that you have forced on a curved surface. It will have to be clamped for hours. If you look at these planking videos, you will see how to shape the planks so you do not have to force the planks onto the model. Chuck Passaro's planking Videos - In the videos, Chuck is using CA. "Best" is relative to experience and personal preference. I prefer CA ( super glue ) in most situations, just to avoid clamping and having to wait so much to proceed with work. Working effectively with CA takes some practice to get use to working with. For planking you need to use a medium or thick formula, not the thin stuff. Here are some more planking technique resources. Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos - Model Ship World™

According to Lees it should pass to the right (starboard).

You can post a video in a build log. Why would a video in the Gallery be more informative than a few well chosen pictures. I personally don't care for a video, even in a build log. You have to watch the whole thing to find an interesting view, then you have to pause and/or rewind to get a good look at what you are interested in.

I have the same problem (OCD), so my solution is to use polyester thread/line and I use a small pointed soldering iron to make the nibs disappear.