Looks way too small to me.😁

This might be a good start: Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat Wooden Model Ship Kit & Tools

The copper leaf itself is very fragile, not much thicker than a layer of paint, but the patina showed no signs of coming off when  I buffed it.

With something like copper tape, you might have some wiggle room to burnish some of it off, if it is too dark for your taste.

It actually ended up a little darker than I planned.  I did leave it overnight, but I wish I had of monitored it and checked every hour or so.

This was a very small piece, and I did it inside of a zippered sandwich bag with one egg.

I was thinking with something like the hull of a ship, I would make a framework to drape plastic over and put my eggs under

This is the  cupola from my Resolution.  It started out as copper leaf then treated with the boiled egg method.

You want quick?

Overnight in an enclosure such as a plastic bag with some chopped boiled eggs.

I look in re-sale shops for dress shirts and dresses with a high thread count.  Preferably cotton .

4 hours ago, Jim Rogers said:

ModelExpo American Privateer.

 

Which one?  Rattlesnake,  Fair American, Prince de Neufchatel , Armed Virginia Sloop ?

I believe the MS cradles are a bit small, but I think the Syren 1:48's might look a bit big.   I will  PM  you later about a solution I have in mind..

Hey guys,  the question was:

" ....which have the most detailed build instruction?  

Can we try to answer that question, instead of launching off into our thoughts on the other pitfalls that a beginner might encounter?

Vanguard Models

Next would be any ModelShipways kit designed by Chuck Passaro as well as any kit from Syren Ship Model Co.

7 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

Yes it is all one piece, however as many have done before ,I am considering replacing both the stem and stern section with boxwood. Some modellers have added material to the bottom of the straight section of the keel but as Alan has metioned whether or not this required.

If you go the route of replacing the stem and keel, my FET method will work. 

You  can see in my Resolution build where I replaced the stem and keel, but I didn't have the FET,   I used an added strip to form the rabbet 

Dave , after looking at your build log I have to ask,   is the stem and keel part of the backbone?

If so, my method of using the FET for the rabbet in the stem area probably would not work after all.

Dave ,  I actually used the Proxxon FET to form a rabbet on the MS 1:48 longboat, including the stem/bow.  I'll have to get  back to you later with some pics.

Along with what Bob is saying, I don't see that being much more useful than a pin vise.  It is going to stall very easily and the tool selection is very limited compared to devices with a 1/8 collet sharing the Dremel type tools.

While not cordless, I have found this to be very useful for light work.  It weighs in at 6.8 oz, so is very easy to use.

Dremel 2050-15 Stylo

It also takes the Dremel keyless chuck eliminating the need to change collets for the smallest drill bits on up to 1/8  for all Dremel type accessories. 

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

will give you all the block sizes

Allan, do you disagree that block size is determined by rope size?   The type of ship shouldn't matter..

Here is a basic table from Mondfeld

43 minutes ago, Simon Martin said:

block size I am looking for is expressed in inches, not in rope diameter or circumference.

The size of the blocks are based on the rope size being used, not the other way around.

You find the rope size you are using then find the block for that size rope.

This might help from a recent discussion:

42 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Hair dryers don't get hot enough most of the time

I have found these mini heat guns to work well.

Mlife Mini Heat Gun  

The Jiggling or Nibbling didnt show up till late 18th century..

The hook method that Allan illustrated may have been used.

While I'm sure soldering produces a great result it introduces a another set of tools, materials and skill set, and the result requires blackening.

It might fit better in another topic, as the one who requested help said:

Quote

 

"The soldering is out of my wheelhouse but I so admire the fellas that can do that! "

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Dave_E said:

Lots of good ideas here to ponder and try.

Thanks for starting this.  I have struggled with making these look good.

I really like CPDDET's fine cut-off disks.. I now have some on order.

Like everything he does, Chuck makes it look so easy.

He's probably made thousands of these.  If only he would start selling them..

43 minutes ago, Jaager said:

There is a shop note - I have not saved the author's name or journal reference - but he got a much longer life from his disks by coating one side with epoxy glue - I think the watery clear flavor epoxy.

Coating with CA might work as well.

The best place could be anywhere depending on where you are located..

As for the 2nd question,  a good scroll saw has been the best option for many years, decades, now.

Next up would be a laser cutter, but it has a lot of accompanying skill requirements with the software it requires..

On 2/1/2023 at 9:19 PM, Hsae said:

Byrnes ropewalk 

https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/ropewalk5.html

From the link:

"The Ropewalk Machine itself is no longer available"

This is another excerpt from the Magoun book.   While nothing specific, the impression I get from the book is that it w as an English built ship.  

I have no knowledge of the expertise of R.C. Anderson.