Allan,

That particular drawing does not even include the extra ringbolts and other details often seen on the carriages.  

It doesn't seem to be a good example.

For moving onto or off of the ship?

Thanks Allan for starting this topic  and thank @mgdawson for the Kevin Kennedy reference..  Was able to start feeling comfortable with the interface after the first video..

Fusion 360 has there own tutorials which are a great way to explore the capabilities of the program before trying to use it.

https://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/courses/

If I may?

A deadeye without holes is not a deadeye...😁

Great new model Chris!

Just for reference there are some pictures in the Gallery of a contemporary Trial model.

Those hinges do look great!  There was a time when making them yourself would have far surpassed anything available aftermarket, but not anymore.

A very nice model!  Makes me feel better about taking my time..

Allan,  my point was, when someone asks for help bending walnut, suggesting they use a different wood is not really any help with the problem if they would prefer to use walnut. 

Yes, but if someone wants to use what came in the kit, we should help as best we can without telling them their only option is to buy something else.

1 hour ago, Jaager said:

The foundational cause lays with OcCre for supplying you with a crap wood species to begin with. 

I would venture over 90% of the builds at MSW are are kits and many of them relative beginners, who may not be inclined to go to a lot of additional expense beyond what they paid for a 'crap kit.

Fortunately they do get a lot of help, instead a load of crap from someone who seems to offer a lot of advice, but no real help with regard to overcoming a problem with what they have at hand.

There are some drawings of an Endymion at the WIKI Commons, but they look nothing like the model.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich&filefrom=DISCOVERY+1901+RMG+J7441.jpg#/media/File:ENDYMION_1797_RMG_J5174.jpg

That is really great work.

Would it be possible for you to make a .pdf available for this image?

This would be for my private use. 

 I can PM you if you would prefer to keep it out of the public area

I know you have invested a lot of time and resources, and I really appreciate it.

Gregory

I've decided I'm going to do a lot of topside work before proceeding with the lower hull..

Does anyone know a good reason for doing all the hull planking first, other than "that's the way it's always been done.".?

From what I can Google, scale may be 1:50 .

P.S.

It appears they made a kit that was 1:50.  Can't be sure if your plans are 1:1 from the kit..

What is your reference for the numbers you have?

The kit manufacturers typically give a height for the finished model. 

While we're at it, here's my version.

The light has 3 intensity settings, and the dimmest is usually adequate for my work.  It works for a couple of hours on a charge, and I have two of them, so that one is always charged up.

This particular model doesn't seem to be available on Amazon right now, but they have similar ones.

The headset is the Carson Pro Series .

15 minutes ago, Benjamin sullivan said:

that is not something I would have thought ,of it will be interesting to see what that looks like.

We have a member, Doris who hasn't been active in a while, but has made some incredible card models.

Here is where she shows some detail of her cannon making.

Click on the arrow in the upper right of the image above to see her method.

Make sure you click through her logs to see some incredible work.

I'll try to find a method by one of our members who used rolled up paper.  They looked as good as any I have seen..

Someone else may find it before I do..

Yes, the treenail effect is just maybe 4 pixels  in a 600dpi drawing.

Just so aspiring laser users don't get confused, the fiber lasers are a different technology than the blue diodes.

The cheapest ones are about $1200 and only have a 70mm square work area.

Fiber Lasers at Amazon

The diode lasers are much better than they were a few years ago.  I have seen 40w units available.

The basic ones have one diode that has about 5w of power.  The  10, 20 and 40w models use multiple diodes focused into a single beam.

Which model fiber laser are you using?  I have not seen that configuration at a $500 price point..

Your image looks like a typical blue diode laser.

This should catch on as more people start using the laser. 

I use maple veneer, and have also explored making treenail marks.

Also good for shaped margin an nibbed/jogged planks.

You are right on about it taking care of the caulking simulation.

I wasn't thinking so much as duplicating the craftsmanship and/or detail but more in the way of a design concept, which is not that  much different from the MS/Campbell drawings.

The red drawing is from the Winnie plans reshaped a bit for size. 

The upper curved panels on the MS drawings do not look homogeneous to me.  They don't follow the shape of the bulwarks.

And once again there are the windows.  It would seem more logical for them to be in the doors.

I'm finding some inspiration for the quarterdeck bulkhead in Beckmann's Winchelsea build.

Link to the relevant content..

Here is a small sample.

Click on down through the link above for a lot more detail regarding method.

@Dave_E  If I'm cluttering up your log too much just let me know and I will delete posts.

Keep in mind, that bulkhead is Campbell's creation.  Look at Winnie and other builds to get some ideas. I'm thinking the windows would make more sense in the doors.

Almost negligible, but It can make a difference when you are cutting slots for POB..

13 hours ago, allanyed said:

.....there was no electricity when those gorgeous models of the 17th and 18th centuries were built so we know it can be done without the power.  

I bet they would have used them if they had had them...   Times change..

No need now  to grow your own hemp and cast your own metal because that was the only way 300 years ago.😁