Gregory

You might consider card.  It really lends itself to simple shapes like this.

I used black card, but it takes paint very well so the color  of the stock is not that important.

9 hours ago, Srenner said:

What's the best tried and true method of fixing up these?

I would use sanding dust and satin varnish.  White PVA and sanding dust would be a 2nd choice.

2 hours ago, fake johnbull said:

The angle of foremost kevels of quarterdeck of Bellona  coppered model are different from port to starboard.

An anomaly that has arisen after 260 years?

50 minutes ago, RossR said:

I know there is a nautical term for the "bracket" but I cannot think of it right now.  

Pintle and gudgeon.

You might already have this Bruce, but just in case..

Of course, it will not be a substitute for the actual scantlings.

9 hours ago, aliluke said:

What a rip off!

Hard to call it a rip off when the seller refunded and is shipping another kit..

Appears to be an honest mistake that was quickly corrected.

My progress has really been hit and miss the last three months, and I seem to have trouble reaching a point where I think a log update is worthwhile.

Anyway, here goes.

 To simplify the gun port and oar port framing, I cut out these frames to establish location.  Doing it with the laser really simplifies uniformity.

I put a plank in place to establish the sheer, and am using this for the initial placing of the gun and oar ports.   All the ports had not been established in this image.  I am not following the plans precisely, however I am going for a balanced look with the spacing.

My plan is to get some solidity to the upper body before before continuing the lower planking, because I keep breaking the bulkhead extensions, particularly on the quarterdeck, which leads me to some of the details I have been working on there.

I built the capstan from the Syren kit for Winchelsea a couple of years ago.  At the time, it was to be used for my Resolution build, which has stalled due to some rigging issues.  I had the 1:48 Rattlesnake build in mind at the time, so the Syren kit was still an option I was considering. 

The Syren cherry kit ( upper part ) in place on my Resolution.

I opted to use the drawings from Winchelsea and make a capstan from pear, this being the result.   Probably not the final version, as looking at my pictures makes me want to try to improve the detail.

The grating was made from a Syren cherry kit.

Once again I used the Winchelsea drawings.  This time to make a ladder.

One of those little touches that won't have much visibility when all is said and done.

That's all for now.  Thanks for looking in.

13 hours ago, allanyed said:

 Actually would a 20 gun of 1720 have badges rather than quarter galleries?? 

Here is a contemporary model of a 20 gun ship of 1730.   https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66398

Another from 1715..  https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66367

There seems to be enough variation to not rule out quarter galleries.

A lot of room to come out ahead of the original painting.

Indeed.   I think it's really trivial, and a matter of what suits the builder.

I'm thinking I will build with no overhang inboard on the quarterdeck,  While allowing some on the gun deck.

A little late to the party, but doesn't this indicate there is a little overhang outboard but not inboard?

I still would not consider this the final word since this part of the plans is conjecture and not shown in the NMM drawings.

2 hours ago, wmherbert said:

"beautiful blocks"

Syren is at the top of my list, but Crafty Sailor has blocks that look a lot like the ones at Model Expo.

What is your goal in staining?

Alcohol based leather dyes  like Fiebing's stain wood ( and everything else)  very well.  

I would experiment with dilution before using full strength.  A little goes a long way.

I haven't noticed any raised grain when I have used it.

20 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

if somebody says the material is hazardous or environmentally unfriendly, I assume it is the better choice for the job

With extra points if it's banned in California.

1 hour ago, DB789 said:

I see that it has a section on an American schooner

It also has a section on " The British Naval Cutter "

I believe Chuck mentioned it was one of his references when designing Cheerful.

It's about as fore-and -aft as you can get.

Maybe a little late for this go-round,  but having heard from builders in the past about the challenges of mounting pin rails, I came up with a little idea that has worked well for me.

I put a little brace under the back of the rail.  It gives a larger surface for mounting to the gunwales, and the modification is virtually invisible once in place on the ship.

Thanks a lot for this!   I bookmarked it for future reference..

It's unfortunate that a lot of kits provide gratings that scale to 6" openings or bigger, and a beginning kit builder may not have the tools to make their own, or be inclined to spend a lot on aftermarket stuff..

Here is a little grate work I'm doing for my Rattlesnake.  This is version  1.

Made up from scratch cherry coamings, and the grating is made from a Syren boxwood grating kit.

I'm thinking of trying to make the grating from pear to get a little more contrast.

1 hour ago, Craigie65 said:

If you don’t have it Lennarth Petersson’s Rigging Period Ship Models is a good investment.

I agree this is a great book to have, but for the cutter Rigging Period-Fore-and-Aft Craft might be a little more helpful.

Here is a contemporary drawing that may be some help.  The scale looks to be in feet.

I like the new pins..  

Birchwood Casey  Plum Brown creates a nice brown effect on brass, but it is a bit of a pain to use.  Involves heating the metal.

Hello,

This is a kit that attracted my attention many years ago, and I started a build that I abandoned for one reason or another.

I had hopes of making a nice decorator model.  I didn't create a build log, but I took a few pictures.

I experimented with tree-nailing, but my work in this regard really has it's shortcomings.   Something I don't care for on my models anymore.  I felt the kit plans for the headrails were really awkward and not anything like I had seen on any actual ship, so I was working on improving that, but it was a feature I didn't finish.  ( The mounting base was temporary )

I reached the point where I was going to start the rigging but never went forward, and got distracted by other projects. So I really can't offer any specific suggestions in that regard.

I believe if you look at any number of build logs there are some great rigging tricks and tips.

Keep in mind that the principles of rigging, and the various ropes needed to get the work done, stay pretty much the same from ship to ship, with the details of little concern unless you are trying to duplicate a documented ship and it's rigging.

  The amount of rigging would be the main difference, depending on  the number of masts, yards and etc..

A book like "The Rigging of Period Ship Models " would provide a lot of information for the general principles.

Re-doing the deck shoudn't be too much trouble, If you can acquire some very thin veneer to make your own strips.

When I was working on my build, I found the following web site a bit of inspiration:

https://www.van-vliet.org/dempseywoodworking/blueshadow.shtml

If you Google " Mamoli Blue Shadow " images, you might see some other builds at other locations.

I will watch your work with interest and offer any help I can.

Gregory

Great re-start!

Nice work so far.

In Chrome you can go to the link above and pressing Ctrl + will let you zoom in.  I'm surprised the detail is holding up pretty good.  The image in the middle is still a mystery to me.

Feel free to make something up.  😁

Something seems to have happened to my link..

Try This..

Good stuff Aon

@Thukydides

I think your work looks pretty good.  At a reasonable viewing distance I think it would be hard to beat..

I trust you have seen  these images from the science museum.  It is the best I have been able to find.

I think your colors are as good any others I have seen.