Interesting, but I don't think it would have the strength of a built-up mast.

Sorry  Ben,  I thought you started with the Rope Rocket.

Word is, you make great rope..

Great work on the transom, but my eyes are still drawn to the flow of the planking into the counter.  Just awesome..

This may be of some help.

It shows Chuck's anchor fabrication for Cheerful.

Allan,

It looks like that model builder didn't follow good practice with the joints on those coamings. 

I'm sure most of you have some type of handy conversion chart. but this one popped up in my browsing at Amazon and I find the format one of the easier ones I have seen.

Fraction-Decimal Conversion Chart

Now, if I can just figure out why the Amazon recommended room for use is " Bedroom " .

It also says: Reusability - Single Use

I guess after you look at it once, it self destructs.  So, not a good value.  😁

The gratings are one of those projects that has to be done sooner or later.

I used the laser to make some grating strips.  This is 1/16 AYC.  I will probably be using other wood, but haven't settled on that yet.

Used the Proxxon saw to make some battens from 1/32 sheet.

Looks pretty ugly in the initial assembly.

Looking better after trimming and sanding

This is tentatively where this will go on the deck..  I see I oriented the battens wrong.  I will fix that.

I will probably adjust the size to better fit the plan.  The NMM plans have this feature labeled as a companion, and Campbell shows it as a grating which looks OK to me.

Should have some coamings soon.

Looks really good.

I really like the cradle!😁

( Seriously, it's a good idea that didn't occur to me before...}

Good to hear an update.

For a first build, making the most of the kit provided parts and finishing the model is an accomplishment a great many kit builders never achieve.

Many, if not most kits are sadly lacking in accurate details and realistic scale..

Keep doing what you are doing and you will have a fine model, and will have gained the experience to make your next model even better.

The only thing you might watch for is the bearding area, and not carry the first planking beyond the bearding line, as it might be difficult if not impossible to get the second planking flush with the stern post and keel in that area.

Thanks for looking in.  Your work is one of my main go-to's and sources of inspiration

What I have described is the first planking.   Plank I am laying down as a base that I will be applying planks made from veneer as the final planking.

I realize it doesn't hurt to practice good practice, but I will just be using convenient lengths of planks and edge bending where needed. A few small gaps can be tolerated.

The diagonal cut give me more gluing surface at the bulkheads,  I may be adding some additional filler pieces as I proceed.

I will be creating a final planking pattern with inspiration from cheerful and Winchelsea.

It will involve laying out belts, tick marks, butt shifts, and the whole shebang over the first layer.

With the veneer I will be using spilling techniques that require little or no edge bending.

Please let me know if you see anything that could use advice or tips  based on your experience.

Greg

I hope I can be successful in making it work.  My idea may not turn out to be practical, but I will see.

Those are really nice.  Any trick to keeping them uniform, or do you do it by eye?

I put together a gun to help set up the gun port frames.

In the end, I will adjust the elevation and the position of the carriage for a more centered look,  but I wanted to make sure there are no clearance issues before framing the gun ports.

I'm using some 33mm barrels at this point, which scale to a little over 5 feet.. 

We discussed this in other Rattlesnake logs, and the 6 pounders on the MS and Hahn plans scale to less than 5 feet.  The guns provided in the kit also scale to less than 5 feet.

Research says 6 pounders were at least 6 feet.  I think the MS  guns on the MS plans look a little small,  but scaling them up to 6 feet  look a little big to me, accurate they may be.

I'm going to go for a balanced look, and I think the  33mm barrels I have look OK.

39mm Scales to 6 feet 3, and they just look big on the model to me.

Thanks for looking in.

I will try to use as little paint as possible, while using various woods and maybe some stain for contrast.

About the only place I plan to use paint will be some black for the smoke stack.

10 minutes ago, Oldsalt1950 said:

I ordered cleats and blocks from Syren.

It's hard to beat Syren, but the selection can be limited.

I really like the hooks, eyebolts, cleats and blocks from another of our sponsors, CraftySailor.  Their service has been fast and shipping rates very reasonable.

They have a nice 1:64 binnacle and a capstan as well.  They also have the Vanguard 1:64 ship's boats..

Here are some pictures from Cheerful to show how relatively simple making frames ( coamings ) can be.

The thickness of the wood would depend on your scale.

As for the gratings, John Fox ' method with cardstock might be your best option.  Those gratings can be a real challenge without a small table saw.

However a hobby saw with the correct kerf, could be an option with an appropriate jig to keep everything square.

You need to end up with parts that look like this:

There might be several ways to make these.

This method by DocBlake is one way

While the pieces above an be interleaved, you can use such pieces for every other layer, and lay battens across them.

Doc Blake's example is large scale which would be easier than smaller scales..

5 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

Is there any good way of getting rid of CA accidentally marking exposed surfaces -

Getting rid of CA is not unlike getting rid of paint.  It depends on how far it has penetrated the wood. It essentially becomes  a layer (thin or otherwise ) of plastic . 

The thickness will vary depending on the initial application.  I go after it with a q-tip and acetone, which dissolves it. Sanding will make it like an application of varnish you are trying to get rid of.

In the end, it is not that difficult to hide compared to any other unwanted  contamination.  The trick  is to practice using it, and getting a feel for how much it takes, and avoiding getting it where you don't want it.

It's hard to argue with the results when used successfully..  Waiting a few minutes to cure beats waiting overnight..

Winchelsea by G Barlow..

13 minutes ago, Bob M said:

thanks sorry for the interruption  of this topic 

Not at all..

This was probably a good place to start..

11 minutes ago, Bob M said:

is there a book for rigging  for my time for the period for up to 1500  AD

Your best resources for that would probably be The Anatomy of The Ship book.  The Ships of Christopher Columbus

Historic Ship Models  might be some help..

Finding downloadable references for the period in question might be a challenge...

This guy, BenD, bought a Syren Rope Rocket and made a business out of it..

Ropes of Scale  One of the MSW sponsors..

A lot of rope making info here:   Rope Making

Another caveat to remember.. Yes, Model Expo will replace parts, but it will not be an improved part.  It will be the same part you are having an issue with.

If it's a bad casting, it may be a better part

If it's something like strip or sheet wood , they will send you extra stuff..

59 minutes ago, Oldsalt1950 said:

Be sure and lay the frame on the plans . You will need to make a small shim for the center connection. After that reenforce it

 

Here is the best shot I could find of that problem.  From a log by Brian Parsons last updated in 2014.

7 hours ago, Dave_E said:

Here we go

That answers a question I had about the material of the skeleton.  It appears to be basswood.

  It would be a bit of a  pain but maybe worth it to double or triple those bulwark extensions before going very far in the build.

Particularly the bulkheads for the quarterdeck, I-M.. 

If you do any reinforcing for the midship bulkheads you have to take into account where some of the gun and oar ports  will be.