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Everything posted by Gregory
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That answers a question I had about the material of the skeleton. It appears to be basswood. It would be a bit of a pain but maybe worth it to double or triple those bulwark extensions before going very far in the build. Particularly the bulkheads for the quarterdeck, I-M.. If you do any reinforcing for the midship bulkheads you have to take into account where some of the gun and oar ports will be.
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A lot of images going into my " How I want things to look " collection...
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- winchelsea
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DEVICE TO FINISH ROPE ENDS TO HANG ON BITTS AND BELAY PINS
Gregory replied to Peter6172's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
While I agree it's a nice jig, something with variable spacing/size would be more useful.. -
Most of the wood in those houses and objects is not on the order of .5 - 1.5mm thick
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If you want to build it, I think $75 would be a fair offer. You might mention the the wood is probably dry and brittle and may need to be replaced to be able to build the kit.
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Hey Dave, at the risk of raining on your parade: This simplified drawing from Mondfeld shows a basic anchor design for the 18th-19th century. Note the two halves of the stock have a gap when viewed from above. This design seems to be prevalent in multiple sources that I have. Here is a drawing from 1797 found in Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War
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Those are some generic balusters found in a lot of kits. How do the dimensions match up with the 'scaled' drawings on the plans? You could use some square stock to make something like Ian's pic, without a lot of trouble. I think the Mamoli parts are a fair compromise. Making every detail look like the real thing sort of negates the purpose of building a kit. It's not a realistic goal. If you run short of those balusters, I'm sure I have a few of those in my stash I would be happy to share..
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I love the color of your AYC, prticularly in the 2nd shot.. I have saved that one and it is my standard now.. If my work doesn't look close to that-tear it off and start over..😁 I hope the lighting doesn't change it much.. Of course it may darken some with age, but you are achieving an exceptional finish. Have I misread somewhere that you are using boxwood, and not AYC?
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- winchelsea
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P.S In the future, you might consider not following through with a butt joint when it involves a very short piece of blank.
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- Harvey
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Without anything else to go on, you lost your symmetry somewhere.. So, you lost your mirror image.. This has happened to me before. Could be a flaw in the kit design.. Something to keep in mind next build.. I don't think it is a big detractor in an otherwise good build so far..
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- Harvey
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- Harvey
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I have three different Dremel tools. This one is easy to hold and has very low torque.. It usually stops before doing damage.. Dremel 2050 With all Dremel's I would recommend the three jawed chuck.. Keyless Chuck
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It looks like a beveling tool rather than tapering, and would work with very small bites. I see the angle of the blade ( flat ) as a design shortcoming.
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