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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. MS/Campbell/Hahn calls it the "Poop Bulkhead".. I was just going with that so the other Rattlesnake builders would know what I am referring to. I have seen the quarterdeck referred to as the ' Poop ' deck whether there were any obvious poop facilities available or not.
  2. As I continue with my build of Rattlesnake, I have some thoughts about the Poop/Quarterdeck bulkhead. The NMM plans show that there are two sets of doors. Campbell drew the bulkhead like this: This what we see in the MS, Hahn and the Mamoli plans, which indicates everyone followed Campbell. My thinking is that the windows in the center/fixed panel don't seem logical. I would think any windows would be in the doors so one could see who is coming or going on either side of the bulkhead before opening the door. I guess one could glance out the window in the middle before proceeding to the door, but windows in the doors make more sense to me. Anyone have any further thoughts on this?
  3. Interesting, but I don't think it would have the strength of a built-up mast.
  4. Sorry Ben, I thought you started with the Rope Rocket. Word is, you make great rope..
  5. Great work on the transom, but my eyes are still drawn to the flow of the planking into the counter. Just awesome..
  6. This may be of some help. It shows Chuck's anchor fabrication for Cheerful.
  7. Allan, It looks like that model builder didn't follow good practice with the joints on those coamings.
  8. I'm sure most of you have some type of handy conversion chart. but this one popped up in my browsing at Amazon and I find the format one of the easier ones I have seen. Fraction-Decimal Conversion Chart Now, if I can just figure out why the Amazon recommended room for use is " Bedroom " . It also says: Reusability - Single Use I guess after you look at it once, it self destructs. So, not a good value. 😁
  9. I really like the cradle!😁 ( Seriously, it's a good idea that didn't occur to me before...}
  10. Good to hear an update. For a first build, making the most of the kit provided parts and finishing the model is an accomplishment a great many kit builders never achieve. Many, if not most kits are sadly lacking in accurate details and realistic scale.. Keep doing what you are doing and you will have a fine model, and will have gained the experience to make your next model even better.
  11. The only thing you might watch for is the bearding area, and not carry the first planking beyond the bearding line, as it might be difficult if not impossible to get the second planking flush with the stern post and keel in that area.
  12. Those are really nice. Any trick to keeping them uniform, or do you do it by eye?
  13. It's hard to beat Syren, but the selection can be limited. I really like the hooks, eyebolts, cleats and blocks from another of our sponsors, CraftySailor. Their service has been fast and shipping rates very reasonable. They have a nice 1:64 binnacle and a capstan as well. They also have the Vanguard 1:64 ship's boats..
  14. Here are some pictures from Cheerful to show how relatively simple making frames ( coamings ) can be. The thickness of the wood would depend on your scale. As for the gratings, John Fox ' method with cardstock might be your best option. Those gratings can be a real challenge without a small table saw. However a hobby saw with the correct kerf, could be an option with an appropriate jig to keep everything square. You need to end up with parts that look like this: There might be several ways to make these. This method by DocBlake is one way While the pieces above an be interleaved, you can use such pieces for every other layer, and lay battens across them. Doc Blake's example is large scale which would be easier than smaller scales..
  15. Getting rid of CA is not unlike getting rid of paint. It depends on how far it has penetrated the wood. It essentially becomes a layer (thin or otherwise ) of plastic . The thickness will vary depending on the initial application. I go after it with a q-tip and acetone, which dissolves it. Sanding will make it like an application of varnish you are trying to get rid of. In the end, it is not that difficult to hide compared to any other unwanted contamination. The trick is to practice using it, and getting a feel for how much it takes, and avoiding getting it where you don't want it. It's hard to argue with the results when used successfully.. Waiting a few minutes to cure beats waiting overnight.. Winchelsea by G Barlow..
  16. Not at all.. This was probably a good place to start..
  17. Your best resources for that would probably be The Anatomy of The Ship book. The Ships of Christopher Columbus Historic Ship Models might be some help.. Finding downloadable references for the period in question might be a challenge...
  18. This guy, BenD, bought a Syren Rope Rocket and made a business out of it.. Ropes of Scale One of the MSW sponsors.. A lot of rope making info here: Rope Making
  19. Another caveat to remember.. Yes, Model Expo will replace parts, but it will not be an improved part. It will be the same part you are having an issue with. If it's a bad casting, it may be a better part If it's something like strip or sheet wood , they will send you extra stuff..
  20. Here is the best shot I could find of that problem. From a log by Brian Parsons last updated in 2014.
  21. That answers a question I had about the material of the skeleton. It appears to be basswood. It would be a bit of a pain but maybe worth it to double or triple those bulwark extensions before going very far in the build. Particularly the bulkheads for the quarterdeck, I-M.. If you do any reinforcing for the midship bulkheads you have to take into account where some of the gun and oar ports will be.
  22. I apologize if I came across as being critical.. You have a great build going that I am following. I was just offering an observation.
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