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Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Longridge says he based his blocks on 9" full size. That would scale to 2.28 mm.
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Have you ever tried to secure scale polyester rope knots with white PVA ? The fibers in polyester thread are fine enough to produce fuzz, so the spun up threads result in a very porous material that the thinned white glue penetrates and bonds very well. I have had no issues using white glue to secure polyester rope knots.
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I can't think of a good reason to use glue on ratline knots. Maybe on the outside shrouds to smooth up the cut ends. Is the Revell glue shiny when dry? If not, it could be a good choice. Otherwise shellac or white glue is a good choice. Hats off to the guy in the video tying off those ratlines with gloves on..
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While we are at it, did Darcy Lever's book say anything about the use of studding sails in general. I have read they were only set in relatively light winds, and that the paintings of clippers, ( or any other sailing ship ) all heeled over, with all sails a' flying in a big blow, was an unlikely scenario.
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I'm sure you all have looked at the NMM drawings, but for what it's worth, here's a little review. I've indicated the area that appears to be recessed, but we can't know for sure.. Where I noted " open', Hahn believed this space was open and built his model that way. I don't recall seeing it open on any other models. I haven't decided how I will go on my model. I'm leaning toward closed, with the idea that the draftsman was just showing the lines of the stern framing behind the transom.
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Gold/yellow details with a blue background seems pretty common... I'm not sure we have any reference for what the actual color scheme might have been.. From an artistic standpoint, some sort of consistency across the model would seem to be in order.. I'm going with wood myself..😁
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Something to keep in mind. The laser cut parts are perfect. They are perfect copies of the files that are sent to the laser..😉 I am using the MS plans for my scratch build of Rattlesnake, and I am also seeing a problem with the symmetry and fairing of the bulkheads.
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Another something you might try, is to sand the back of the Britannia piece and make it as thin as you can. Heating it with a hair dryer while shaping on a curved surface might help.
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Not aimed at you in particular, but just curious for Winchelsea builders in general, there is so much detail with the cap squares and all but the trucks are rather lacking in detail; no pins through the axles, no bolts . Any thoughts?
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Correct Glue
Gregory replied to Blacklab's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
My two favorites are: Modeler's Sawmill One of our sponsors. Has somewhat limited species selection, but very nice stuff, particularly the Alaskan yellow cedar. Ocooch Hardwoods While Ocooch does not have pear, boxwood or Alaskan yellow cedar, they have a greater variety of other woods. They do not have all the thickness options that Modelers Sawmill does. -
Correct Glue
Gregory replied to Blacklab's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
You can purchase whatever you like. Glenn is recommending Bob Smith. He has used it successfully for many years and you can look at his build logs for examples of his fine work. I really like the Bob Smith product also. I have also had very good results with a brand called 2P-10. If you decide to use the Gorilla brand, you can let us know how it works for you. I don't recall that anyone else has talked about using it. -
What method are you using to enlarge them?
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I don't see where Dusek has released a new version of the 1:90 Victory. The kits out there will be the original Mamoli kit which have been out of production for several years. I'm seeing them on eBay for $449 and up..
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The clinker effect is because the planks are not laying flat on the bulkheads. The only way to achieve this is by edge bending or spiling. Hve you looked at Chuck's planink videos. They will show you all you need to know about edge bending. This guide by David Antscherl will show you about spilling. https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf I meant to add that spiling can be problematic with kits, because it requires wider stock than the uniform width planks provided in the kit. Since this is the first layer, it is a good opportunity to practice what you want to do with the second layer. Now is the time to make mistakes, and correct them with lessons learned.
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Lavery says the following about breeching and tackles.. There are tables in various references, giving rope and block sizes. Someone else may provide more detailed information. PS I see post #12 in this thread has a table of rope sizes.
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It's a curiosity. I wouldn't have the time to slog through it..
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- Book
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No good reason to upload it here, since it is free to download at the link provided..
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Your photo appears to be from the CAF kit of Granado Creating such a jig for a particular build, that didn't include the plans for a jig, would be as much an endeavor as the model itself.
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Deck planking plans
Gregory replied to KingDavid's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Interesting that the plans above show a sort of " anchor stock " shape in some of the planks. .. I have never seen that in deck planking before.. -
Who's going to call you on this if you get it wrong? 😁
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- sloop of war
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Do tell..
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Nailing and covering up the hole, will never solve the problems of trying to lay a straight plank on a curved surface
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Scroll down for a couple of great videos by Chuck.
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Once you have the vertical bend, the lateral bend is usually easy to do in place with pressure.. At least that has been my experience.. Glenn might have other advice.
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