Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Laser cutting questions
Gregory replied to SardonicMeow's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Don't shy away from good quality plywood for your frame parts. A good example is Chuck's Cheerful project. Click through the log to see the plywood framing.. Of course, you don't want plywood showing on the outside of your model, so the " finish " parts should be woods like boxwood, pear and the Alaskan yellow cedar that is showing up lately. There are many other choices, but those are a few. How precise your cutting is, will depend on the machine itself, and you will have to experiment. The best examples I know of is our own, Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model Company He turns out parts in boxwood that are 1/32" thick, and having dimensions in that range, if not smaller, also. Stern Lantern Kit For what it's worth, I have a low power laser engraver that needs several passes to cut through anything thicker than card stock. However, it is great for making precise patterns that I can then cut out with my jig saw, and follow up with detailed finishing.
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Very nice.. What type of wood?
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I will 2nd mtaylor and GrandpaPhil's suggestion of Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld
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What first wooden ship kit should I buy.
Gregory replied to SHIPSCAT's topic in New member Introductions
Another good thing to keep in mind, If you happen to purchase a kit from ModelExpo ( which also has an eBay store ), they will replace lost or broken parts, no questions asked... -
I like the wood finish on the box art, however, the glue/water mix would certainly seal the wood to some degree and make any further natural finishing difficult. Do the instructions call for painting?
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Thanks for taking the time... With all the kits we have going here, and assuming the plans are fairly accurate, comparing the steeve angles might be an interesting exercise.
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Perhaps you could share a brief synopsis of his conclusions before we all rush out and buy the book?
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Boxwood is always a good choice in any font...
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You have mail!
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Does anyone reading this thread recall a build of a clipper in Seaways Ships of Scale magazine a few years ago? I think it may have been Young America, and I think the builder was Jim Raines? It was a large model and had some of the interior exposed. ( Just reminiscing .. )
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I came across this the other day while strolling through Walmart.. 2050-15 Stylo-Plus I'm posting the Amazon link due to extra pictures. I couldn't resist. It comes with the standard colette that fits most other Dremels. I added the Dremel keyless chuck. It is very light, and doesn't feel much bigger than a large pen when held. It doesn't seem as big as the illustrations at Amazon indicate. ( A model with small hands maybe? ) It has a small 18v power supply with a very lightweight cord.
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Hey Grandpa, This is the best way I know of to make cleats from scratch.. Syren Ship Model Company ( There are several sizes. This is one example. ) OK, so not scratch.. But at that price, your time is worth a lot more. As amateur mentioned, using the example from Syren, you could shape some stock to that profile, then slice of a piece and shape it accordingly. Metal? Paint them accordingly and call them metal..😂
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Very nice work! I have had this kit on my shelf for a while. Your log has inspired me to seriously consider getting started on it soon.
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Cheapest or cheap? What is your budget? Short of fabricating them yourself and depending on scale, I would guess it would be at least $5 per gun, and that might be a tight squeeze.. If you are talking about " dummy " cannon, with just a bit of barrel showing, it could be a lot less.. What scale are you talking about? You could get a 1/96 plastic kit for less than $100, and use the cannon. With some work, they would look pretty good.
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There is a replica Amistad The site says: The Dos Amigos.kit from Occre mentioned by ccoyle is a good start. If Googling or other research does not produce any definitive results, there would not be anyone to rightly criticize a named model, claiming to represent the "type" of ship.
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Shopping on eBay: A Primer for Newbie Ship Modelers (Parts 1 and 2)
Gregory replied to ccoyle's topic in Wood ship model kits
You really have to know your kits, and prices... I like to go there and search before buying somewhere else, to make sure I'm not missing something. I recently had an itch for the Model Shipways Fair American. It was out of stock at Model Expo. I managed to get one on eBay for $150 shipped. -
I would like to add that a couple of resurrected Mamoli/Dusek kits that I have acquired recently appear to be greatly improved over the old Mamoli kits. What is really great is that Daniel Dusek, the owner( I assume) of the company, is a member here, and responds promptly to inquiries. I hope to start a log soon, and will point out some of the improvements which include laser cut frame parts. I would suspect that examples here on MSW may be in short supply, since the new kits have not been out there very long.
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I just received a Mamoli/Dusek Halifax from ModelExpo. I am really impressed with the quality as it sits in the box. Looking forward to seeing how the laser cut parts fist together. What I'm really impressed with compared to the old Mamoli kits, are some laser cut stem and keel pieces. The old kits would have you covering the false keel with veneer, which was OK, but less visually impressive. I also like the laser cut gun carriages, which look like they may finish out very nicely. I'm looking forward to getting to work on this to see how it goes together.
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Aftermarket yards and Masts for plastic kits
Gregory replied to William-Victory's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Well no, but an example might be nice..☺️ -
Clewline attachment to Topsail yard,HMS Cheerful
Gregory replied to davyboy's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Here is an illustration from Mondfeld, as well as a grab from Chuck's build log. The line would be seized to the yard, then lead through the blocks as seen in the drawing.
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Oscillating Wonder Cutter
Gregory replied to Jim Rogers's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
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Mondfeld, in Historic Ship Models, says ( with regard to Europe ) the pendant was very short in ancient/medieval times and grew longer until the 16/17th centuries when it was 4/10 ( 2/5 ) the length of the yard. In the course of the 18th century it was shortened until around 1800, when it was situated immediately on the yard arm. I would suspect US practices would have closely followed Europe in many respects.
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Good point about the iron.. I have a small hobby iron that I use. It works very well when using PVA. The glue sets up within a few seconds as it cools.
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Being a fan of natural wood, I like to use veneer for variety and contrast. It also facilitates spiling if that is your thing.. Here is a sample of a work in progress. With reference to your comment on flexibility, your sample planks above, appear to have been cut across the grain. That would certainly impart a flexibility that might not be desirable in some situations.
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With regard to tinting, it seems to me that mixing food coloring in water would be a good idea. I have noticed how hard it is to get food coloring out of clothes, so I think it should weather well..
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