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Everything posted by Gregory
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Meant to add, as popeye2sea mentioned, moving it forward very much would interfere with the foresail..
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There are several images in another thread.. This one has the main stay attaching near the fore mast..
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Except for refinements and materials, everything is pretty much the same as it was hundreds of years ago..
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Do you have more information; pictures , of what you are referring to? I recently posted a tip about attaching hooks to blocks.. A little CA goes a long way..
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I'm pretty sure that convoluted is not the way to go. I don't have Lee's. Perhaps someone who does can check it for you. I have to imagine, for the sake of easy handling, it would start at a ring bolt near the stern and belay to a cleat near the stern.
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If I'm not mistaken, the Constitution has steps on the bowsprit. Seems like a convenient thing to have on a large ship..
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Rigging Question (Probably first of many!)
Gregory replied to Bluto 1790's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If you will notice, the number and set-up of those stays of your 50 gun ship, appears identical to Petersson's frigate. As far as belaying, taking the natural lead of the line to the closest pin, while avoiding interference with other lines, will probably not get you in trouble with any Admiral who may view your work. -
Rigging Question (Probably first of many!)
Gregory replied to Bluto 1790's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
An excellent resource is Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Peterson Here is a sample that covers your question. -
Amazon would probably be a good place to buy once you know the size & color you want.. I use stuff like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Gutermann-Natural-Cotton-Thread-3281-Yard/dp/B002762152/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495740793&sr=8-1&keywords=Natural%2BSolids%2B3281&th=1 With a machine like the Domanoff, where you are limited to four strands, you may have to use your results ( 2,3,4 ) to make larger rope...
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Another excellent reference is "Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld.. It should have some details regarding the rigging of the type you are working on.. Browse through some of the excellent build logs, and click through to the rigging parts. Trying to take you through this, question by question, is going to result in a virtual build log, using diagrams and technique that has already been provided. Here is a good start from a log I suggested to you earlier..
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Without any other references, the rigging plans with the kit should be adequate. When I search in the build logs, the first completed log I come across is: This would probably be a good place to start.. When I Google " Santa Maria model ship ' images, I get many hits with images that should provide a lot of information..
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Great little ship! I plan to build this little kit, and your build is a great source of inspiration and technique.
- 93 replies
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- topsail schooner
- revenue cutter
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UK Supplies of good blocks and rigging line
Gregory replied to JRB9019's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
They do.. -
UK Supplies of good blocks and rigging line
Gregory replied to JRB9019's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You ask: Now that you see what the really nice blocks cost, you have an answer to that question.. If the kit had cost $60 more, and included the blocks from Syren, would you have purchased anyway? The kit provided blocks can really be improved upon, if you take the time with a file or emery board, to round of the corners and edges, and deepen the grooves a bit.. -
Hey Huskey, This kit has a special place in my heart, as it was the first model ship kit I owned, many, many years ago. You might find the following a little inspirational, and hopefully not discouraging.. jtilley's Bounty
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S.O.S, I Googled your replica a lot also. With that, and your images above, it really looks like the fore-yard lifts run in front of the shrouds, to blocks that are well forward on the mast cap. It seems the the fore-sail is rarely set, and if you check the AVS plans, there is a note that it was for light weather.. In all the Googling I did, never saw the foresail set on similar ships, or even furled on the yard..
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It does appear that the lifts on your example are forward of the shrouds, with the tackle toward the front of the cap, unlike what is shown in the Senor's examples up above.. Here is a model from the Boston Museum of Fine Art, and it also shows the lift tackle near the front of the mast cap, with the top mast shrouds well to the rear. Why would the lifts going through the shrouds be a problem if there were no ratlines present, as shown in Petersson's and Chuck's example?
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Senior ole salt, I noticed in another thread, you mentioned you were using the plans for the AVS ( ModelExpo? ) I have those plans, and they do not show any top-mast shrouds. Are you using other sources that call for the shrouds?
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Petersson in "Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft, using a contemporary model of an ~1808 US schooner, shows the lift passing through the shrouds.. However, there are no deadeyes or rat lines. Someone with more knowledge, might know why it may have been different on a sloop, and how sailors ventured above the cross trees on such vessels.. Of course, the model may not be 100% accurate either...
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I couldn't resist snipping this from your post.. No woodworking background? Oh, no.. Not much.. Beautiful ship!
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