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Everything posted by Gregory
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With that little ship in mind, you might also consider The Lady Nelson.. Several great build logs here also. I don't believe you mentioned where you are, but you will notice the link I provided for Lady Nelson is Cornwall Model Boats in the UK.. While their shipping rates to the US may seem a bit high, the lower prices you will get for some kits , Like Sherbourne, usually will come in at a lower total cost, than the same kit +shipping in the US.
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Those hooks and blocks look very neat... I swiped your pic for future reference...
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May not be the best method at this size, but here is a method I use sometimes.. Blocks With Hooks or Eyes There are some caveats as far as penetrating into the sheave area, but it takes a little extra care and a good glue joint..
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Wow! Putting that little cap on top of the timber is a nice embellishment that would be easy ( for me ) to mess up if you were trying to carve it.. I can see where this method would be great for a lot of situations.. Can't wait to try it on one of my models..
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I have to withdraw my earlier comment about not seeing the anchor cables around the windless on contemporary models. Here is one in the Gallery: English Naval Cutter P.S. Just looking at your lastest build pics, and I must say they are an inspiration. This is just my opinion, and possibly contrary to actual practice, but I think the hawser around one side of the windless doesn't look balanced. Even so, the workmanship as is, looks superb.
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Well said welfalk.. I have not seen any turns around the windless on any contemporary models. I have seen the hawsers passing under the windless, headed for the cable lockers. I have seen a few kits, where the plans show a couple of turns around the windless. On a model, I think wrapping around the windless might serve an artistic purpose, and provide context for observers outside our ship modeling community.
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NY has a code for Piano finishes? 😵
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- winchelsea
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While you have received some great recommendations for other sources, have you considered modifying the one's you have. I have this kit on the shelf and I pulled out the belaying pins. If you have a small rotary tool with an adjustable chuck, it shouldn't be beyond the skill you have demonstrated with this kit.. Started with a fine file, and finished off with an emory board.. This was real quick, and I could have refined the final result a bit.. I would also add a little stain. Here is one I made from a tooth pick using the same method. Might be a bit long for this kit.
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I really like the base supports.. I'm going to shamelessly rip off that idea...😂
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Was I ever wrong.. In Zu Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models, there is a chapter on " Bending Sails to the yards...
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I guess it depends on whether or not you feel compelled to adhere to that tagline.. Getting paint colors " historically accurate " is not very likely, but if you want to settle for " some shade of red " , then that is up to you.. Personally, my goal in ship modeling, is to end up with an " art " piece, that aunt May, Uncle Jack or myself would be happy with on the mantle. I accomplish that with the natural wood look. There are countless examples of unpainted models in the Gallery that are far better than what I could hope to achieve.. One of my favorites is Longridge's Victory Model..
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I was surprised that I couldn't find any details in Zu Mondfeld regarding fixing sails to yards...
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Not an easy task, without a picture or two showing access to the hold... My best guess for a start, is a piece of small gauge wire, that is fairly rigid..
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