Stevinne
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Stevinne reacted to Jaager in 2nd time around
Nu, unless you developed a magnetic attraction for the subject.
I wrote that to make a point.
The point is:
with a wood ship model kit, all is never lost if you make a mistake. With wood, the same (or most often) better components can be self manufactured. The barrier to scratch is more imaginary than real, unlike with a kit of molded plastic pieces,
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Stevinne got a reaction from Keith Black in 2nd time around
I'm not sure what kind of reading you did before you got started, but I think Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified" is invaluable for a beginner. It does a very good job of simply explaining the various steps in building a ship, everything from planking to rigging. It looks like you can pick up a used copy on Amazon for about $9, including shipping. https://www.amazon.com/Ship-Modeling-Simplified-Techniques-Construction/dp/0071558675/ref=sr_1_1?crid=QZS69USMSME7&keywords=Ship+model+simplified&qid=1679171208&sprefix=ship+model+simplified%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-1
Right now Model Expo is having a half-price sale on their Model Shipways kits. The Lobster Smack looks like a great deal for $37 and is one of their shipwright series, which, as Jaeger said, are really designed to introduce people to the hobby.
https://modelexpo-online.com/muscongus-bay-lobster-smack.html
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Stevinne reacted to javajohn in Rattlesnake by javajohn - Model Shipways - 1:64
At long last, I finished the hull planking. I took several breaks to work on other projects, but I'm glad I made it to this milestone.
I still have one side to sand and there are still finishing touches to be done. I decided to show photos with one side sanded and the other not. I saw a few build logs of users lamenting on how bad their planking looked, but once it is sanded and smoothed, most of those flaws disappear.
The un-sanded side:
After sanding:
A side-by-side comparison at the bow. The curve of the planks is pretty severe.
And Stern. I'll do more touchup of the planks as they meet the transom planks.
I'm very happy with how it all turned out, considering my skills.
I think I'll work on some hull details, such as finishing the windows and start considering the deck planking.
I'm thinking about ordering better wood for the decks. The basswood flakes and compresses easily, so there are a lot of dents in the hull that were difficult to sand out. Maybe I'll follow @Dave_E's lead and build me some cannons!
Cheers!
John
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Stevinne reacted to Azzoun in hi, I was wondering what the cheapest model kit for practice would be.
For free... you're a young person wanting to build a model, happy to support that. If you were an adult with a job, I'd charge.
Joshua
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Stevinne got a reaction from KentM in hi, I was wondering what the cheapest model kit for practice would be.
Sign up for the Model Expo email alerts. They have sales just about every week and you can usually find good deals on simple, inexpensive kits among the deals. I'd second the Swift, which sounds like a good deal. Their Virginia 1819 also looks like a good starter kit. It looks like you can get it on their site for about $95 if you use their coupon. https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-initiation/62413-virginia-american-schooner-wooden-model-ship-kit-8421426221350.html
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Stevinne reacted to Ondras71 in Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Thanks for the like..
The emblem is ready..
..and placed on the mirror..
Next job - a big flag on the stern
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Stevinne got a reaction from mtaylor in hi, I was wondering what the cheapest model kit for practice would be.
Sign up for the Model Expo email alerts. They have sales just about every week and you can usually find good deals on simple, inexpensive kits among the deals. I'd second the Swift, which sounds like a good deal. Their Virginia 1819 also looks like a good starter kit. It looks like you can get it on their site for about $95 if you use their coupon. https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-initiation/62413-virginia-american-schooner-wooden-model-ship-kit-8421426221350.html
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Stevinne got a reaction from DARIVS ARCHITECTVS in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon
Sometimes, I ask myself "Now why did they do that?" I'm working on the starboard decorations. The Mamoli printed cardboard is entirely covered in faux wood grain printing. But, for some reason, Mamoli also outlined the decorations with a thin black line to show you where to cut. That really doesn't leave any wiggle room for fitting things, as this photo shows. Apparently, the curve from the sterncastle to the waist is a little too long. It wouldn't have been a problem if Mamoli hadn't seen fit to provide a helpful black line to show where things should end.
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Stevinne got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon
Added some decorations to the hull. I was concerned about getting the decorative strips to line up, but it actually was easier (at least on this side) than I had anticipated. The vertical stripes at the very rear are actually strips of 4mm wood, which allows some wiggle room about the the card positioning. Thanks to Aon for advice on what glue to use. I still need to add caprails and to remove the strips across the gunports in the waist, as well as some decorations for focsle.
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Stevinne got a reaction from Prowler901 in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon
Sometimes, I ask myself "Now why did they do that?" I'm working on the starboard decorations. The Mamoli printed cardboard is entirely covered in faux wood grain printing. But, for some reason, Mamoli also outlined the decorations with a thin black line to show you where to cut. That really doesn't leave any wiggle room for fitting things, as this photo shows. Apparently, the curve from the sterncastle to the waist is a little too long. It wouldn't have been a problem if Mamoli hadn't seen fit to provide a helpful black line to show where things should end.
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Stevinne reacted to Gregory in Best directions
Hey guys, the question was:
" ....which have the most detailed build instruction?
Can we try to answer that question, instead of launching off into our thoughts on the other pitfalls that a beginner might encounter?
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Stevinne got a reaction from Gregory in What glue to use when attaching printed decorative card?
I'm getting ready to add the decorative strips to the fore and stern castles on my Roter Lowe build. The decorations are printed on thick card stock and I was wondering what glue to use to attach it to the wood. My first inclination is to use the same super glue/wood glue combo I have tended to use on the planking, but wanted to check and make sure I'm not making a mistake. Any advice appreciated.
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Stevinne got a reaction from 72Nova in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon
Added some decorations to the hull. I was concerned about getting the decorative strips to line up, but it actually was easier (at least on this side) than I had anticipated. The vertical stripes at the very rear are actually strips of 4mm wood, which allows some wiggle room about the the card positioning. Thanks to Aon for advice on what glue to use. I still need to add caprails and to remove the strips across the gunports in the waist, as well as some decorations for focsle.
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Stevinne got a reaction from Prowler901 in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon
Added some decorations to the hull. I was concerned about getting the decorative strips to line up, but it actually was easier (at least on this side) than I had anticipated. The vertical stripes at the very rear are actually strips of 4mm wood, which allows some wiggle room about the the card positioning. Thanks to Aon for advice on what glue to use. I still need to add caprails and to remove the strips across the gunports in the waist, as well as some decorations for focsle.
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Stevinne got a reaction from ccoyle in Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon
Added some decorations to the hull. I was concerned about getting the decorative strips to line up, but it actually was easier (at least on this side) than I had anticipated. The vertical stripes at the very rear are actually strips of 4mm wood, which allows some wiggle room about the the card positioning. Thanks to Aon for advice on what glue to use. I still need to add caprails and to remove the strips across the gunports in the waist, as well as some decorations for focsle.
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Stevinne reacted to Valeriy V in Cyclone-Class Destroyer 1902 by Valeriy V - scale 1:45 - Russian Imperial Navy
I am glad to welcome all members of the forum again!
My new topic will be dedicated to the Cyclone-class destroyer. It was built by the Nevsky Zavod in St. Petersburg in 1902.
Displacement: 152.4 tons
Length: 45 m
Width: 4.9 m
Draft aft: 2.5 m
Armament:
2 - 47 mm (1.9 in) guns
1× 2 torpedo tubes 356 mm
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Stevinne reacted to Valeriy V in Cyclone-Class Destroyer 1902 by Valeriy V - scale 1:45 - Russian Imperial Navy
In total, 10 ships of this type were built at two Russian shipyards. The ancestor of this series was the French destroyer "Cyclone" designed and built by the company "Augustin Norman".
In 1899, Russia purchased from O. Norman a complete set of drawings necessary for the construction of ships.
However, before construction began, the following changes were made to the project:
- reinforced steel case set
- increased hull width by 0.16m to improve stability
- one double-tube torpedo tube was installed instead of two single-tube ones
- changed layout of living quarters.
The following photo shows the French destroyer Cyclone.
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Stevinne reacted to AON in What glue to use when attaching printed decorative card?
I've attached card stock and paper to my wood pieces with white PVA that dries clear.
Like Elmer's glue. You can chose to dilute it with water or purchase diluted glue.
Brush it onto the back of the paper.
As you apply the paper to the model it might shift a wee bit and while moving it back it could smear some glue where you don't want it.
Once applied I scrape away any excess with a dental scraper tool and wipe the scraped wood area with a dampened paper towel.
Then don't touch it again until well after it sets up.
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Stevinne got a reaction from mtaylor in What glue to use when attaching printed decorative card?
I'm getting ready to add the decorative strips to the fore and stern castles on my Roter Lowe build. The decorations are printed on thick card stock and I was wondering what glue to use to attach it to the wood. My first inclination is to use the same super glue/wood glue combo I have tended to use on the planking, but wanted to check and make sure I'm not making a mistake. Any advice appreciated.
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Stevinne reacted to Javlin in S-100 by Javlin - FINISHED - Revell - 1/72 - PLASTIC - Schnellboot
I am not through with the weathering still got the sides of the hull to go.I do not have much more to add to the fore deck mainly just the anchor which I plan to repaint probably black/gray.I went what I thought was light on the rust using a rubber paint brush Nice and Pointy.I just had to start on the railings lesson learned glue in play bottom rung first and attach carefully the bottom wire gets the alignment done straight every thing else falls into place.
PS: going light on the weathering a boat maybe 6/12 months more like 6 in service.
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Stevinne reacted to Javlin in S-100 by Javlin - FINISHED - Revell - 1/72 - PLASTIC - Schnellboot
Can you tell I am on Holiday?I keep pressing this one forward .I have added more to the bow section still need to add rails,anchor gaff pole.The Kalotte still needs bit and pieces to finish it out reason for no Future there yet.The bridge is done except for antennas and life rings.I start tomorrow with highlights and weathering wish me luck.The S-100's had more metal and heavier than the S-38's so rust but I am thinking a greenish grey for vertical streaks to the hull like algae and maybe the occasional oil? Hase you have any good side pics of weathering?Much obliged if you do.Kevin
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Stevinne got a reaction from bolin in Securing Ropes Wrapped Around Masts
I use a technique I learned wrapping the windings on my fly rod - I make a loop of thin monofilament that I put up against the wood as I wrap the windings. When I get to the top of the wrap, I put the thread in the loop and pull the loop down until the end of the thread is hanging out the bottom of the winding, gently pull it tight and then cut off the bit that's showing
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Stevinne got a reaction from wefalck in Securing Ropes Wrapped Around Masts
I use a technique I learned wrapping the windings on my fly rod - I make a loop of thin monofilament that I put up against the wood as I wrap the windings. When I get to the top of the wrap, I put the thread in the loop and pull the loop down until the end of the thread is hanging out the bottom of the winding, gently pull it tight and then cut off the bit that's showing
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Stevinne got a reaction from Knocklouder in Securing Ropes Wrapped Around Masts
I use a technique I learned wrapping the windings on my fly rod - I make a loop of thin monofilament that I put up against the wood as I wrap the windings. When I get to the top of the wrap, I put the thread in the loop and pull the loop down until the end of the thread is hanging out the bottom of the winding, gently pull it tight and then cut off the bit that's showing
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Stevinne got a reaction from Canute in HMS HOOD by Salty Dog - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC - w/Pontos PE
Very nice. Just found this build log. I really like the black and unpainted etch scheme. One thing that got me back into ship modeling was going to a museum and seeing a model of an early destroyer where they left the brass work unpainted. I thought it looked very sharp. A similar vibe here.
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