Thunder
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Quick update on rigging process. Now rigged, thread sizes are those calculated from James Lees rather than suggested by the kit. Order of rig is my standard I always use and was developed from the Noel C Hackney book for the Airfix Victory. I produce my own 'manual' for the rigging back tracking as I research for the points best to attach blocks. Gammoning lower mast pendants lower mast shrouds, thread used 0.75mm Catharpins 0.25mm bobstays 0.6mm bowsprit shrouds 0.6mm Mainstay 1,27mm Main preventer stay 0.9mm Forestay 1.27mm Fore preventer 0.9mm Snaking - not rigged Crowsfeet. Jibboom horses Topmast Burton Pendants Topmast Shrouds Futtock shrouds Ratlines Shifting backstays
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You have more options. If it is Bounty you like then you could build this version: This is a modified Airfix Kit. If it has to be wood then the planking of Bounty is a more difficult option. However, if you are not particular of the vessel then there are easier kits to build with better instructions such as the Brigs that Vanguard models offer or if you want a three masted vessel then ships like Rattlesnake have kinder lines.
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Hi John, The Pettersson book is a good reference just remember it is for one point in History and for a ship. You are rigging a Brig that may have differences as well due to being a captured Dutch ship. I still refer to James Lees book for variances for the period of the vessel I am building. As for being a Brig just remember that the lowest yard on the main mast is now a crossjack yard and so will not have as much rigging as the fore yard. I am just catching up with you on my H.M.S. Cruiser's rigging. Just doing the ratlines and then will have backstays to do before I have caught up. I write up my hole rigging plan first so happy to help as we go along. If you start a log from where you are it will start a debate that will help you. Adrian
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Hi, they have removed the gift option when buying from the States as I recently found out. Still have to pay UK tax on arrival. Not sure when shipping the other way.
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Hi, I was just looking into purchasing the confederacy for my 50th. Are they still available? I am in Staffordshire.
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Airfix Revenge & Revell Golden Hind Accuracy
Thunder replied to Robert Taylor's topic in Nautical/Naval History
The Airfix Golden hind stern cannot be correct as Drake renamed the ship 'Golden Hind' after one of the benefactors of the expedition whilst already on the journey. -
Your biggest problem is finding what was in each volume. I created an index but even this is only what was of interest to me and for the volumes I have. Model shipwright created a separate index with its one hundredth issue but it wasn't completely correct. I think the below is the traditional shipbuilding you want but I will have to get one out to double check the Author. For confusion's sake, early editions were in volumes and then changed to just number. You want the editions listed under number.
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Plenty of copies of both of those editions on ebay.
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Excellent book, my point of reference for all my planking.
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She looks remarkably well considering your accident, you obviously built her well originally.
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Hi, good luck with your new build. This turned out a 'tour de force' for me as I wanted to add extra bulkheads to improve the planking and ended up modifying them all to correct the hull shape. Still have not rigged her but well worth the time taken as she is a real beauty when built.
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Hi Wahka_est, I did change the deck planking material, I purchased Lime to replace as I prefer the lighter colour rather than the sometimes orange of Tanjanika. However, purchased some for next project from Cornwall model boats and is was awful. It was not usable with dark streaks every few inches. They wouldn't except it was poor quality. The fore and main stays have had different thread used as when I calculated the size that provided in the kit was too small.
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Photographs of Tops with Catharpins, Crowsfeet, stays, Jeers
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It may be worth noting the bowsprit has rope wooldings. The masts, you will see later has iron hoops. This was my own decision based on information I could find regarding how it was the smaller classes of ships that were used to try new techniques before implementing on ships of the line. Chain plates photographs below. I really struggled with these. I checked and double checked the Wale position but when come to this found the dead eye strops to be the wrong lengths, now photographed this does show these really need some more work. Next photograph shows the shrouds and dead eyes rigged.
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Now moving onto the rigging. I always research my own rigging and compare with kit instructions. Many items were as per the kit but also many not. I will try to point out differences where I remember. First items rigged are always the gammoning, bowsprit shrouds and bobstays. As you can probably tell I have jumped a few stages. The photographs were taken much down the line and you will note that the fore, main and preventer stays have been rigged. If you know the correct order of dressing the masts and yards you will know that to rig these I would also have rigged the mast pendants and shrouds. Unfortunately this is a catch up session as I have not been disciplined with my updates.
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Elm Tree Pumps, Mast Bitts installed. Isn't amazing how you think you have done a good job and then you take a photograph and it shows every little tiny fault. Trouble is you know that with the supplied wood you are unlikely to get it any better.
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Capstan built and installed with pawls added. Companion way built and installed. Modified due to kit items not covering deck cut out.
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I have been asked for an update so here goes! Model moved on then had a break to finish some old OO gauge kits. Rudder shipped and rigged. Ships wheel and tiller rigged. You also get a good shot of one of the cannons installed. From memory found tiler length incorrect to kit and had to position ships wheel different to plans due to this.
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When have you actually passed the halfwaypoint in building a kit?
Thunder replied to Vane's topic in Wood ship model kits
Once the masts are stepped I start to feel that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and start to plan the next build. -
If you go into advanced search on ebay and select ended items you may just find some that sold recently and what they went for.
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Many years ago I experimented with the elastic that is used in the cuffs of knitted jumpers. I used it on the Pyro 'Bon Homme Richard'. It must be 18 years now and it is still ok. I never used it since just because it was clear in colour so all needed painting. What was left got used for securing baits to keep them presented correctly whilst sea fishing.
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Hi, Has anyone ever used or seen this product? https://www.migjimenez.com/en/83-rigging If already covered then please remove this topic.
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From Memory the hackney book covers: short History of the ship Colour scheme with tips on painting methods Extra materials and tools. Short cuts to the build which is more like a simple list of modifications. Advanced modifications Step by step build sequence which references each modification at the stage it needs completing. Step by step rigging instructions of standing and running rigging Step by step rigging instructions of sail rig either under sail or what would be rigged during harbour rig. What is so good about the book is the rig can be adopted for any version of the kit. The two others in the series, Mayflower and Cutty Sark are equally good. The mayflower for tips on painting to simulate wood.
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Hi, I should stop now and read the book if you want to use it. There are holes to drill and blocks to fit under the mast tops that you will not be able to do once they are fixed in place. I used the airfix masts and yards and the only one pulled out of shape is the sprit sail yard. This is after all those years. I didn't use the airfix threads but the book tells you possible sources and how to check they are the correct sizes. For the smallest I use Fly tying fishing silk thread. Then guttermann and the largest is Twilleys. Blocks are a mixture of lead fishing shot, wood and home made out of strip styrene. get the whole strip, run groves along whole lengths on each side using a draw knife, drill holes and cut to length with flush cut miniature electrical side cutters. Cut the correct way and it even rounds off the edge. String all onto a length of wire and paint brown. Can make doubles and trebles the same way.
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