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Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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I have even started gluing and fitting the lower masts. These will need to be painted before i can show them. -
If you want, you could also check out my Mayflower build! You might like it.
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The poop deck, bulkhead, mizzen lateen knighthead, belaying rails and kevels are in place. Next is the main brace sheaves and eyebolts.
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This is the Revenge. Shouldn't the letters be E R?
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These are the unassembled parts of the ship's boat, ready to be assembled. Let's build it!!
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The main bitts, mainyard halyard knighthead and tackle, the capstan, and the whipstaff are all put in place. The whipstaff did not come with the kit, but there was clearly a hole and a place for it. There is a hole in the quarterdeck that allows the captain to communicate with the helmsman. I also put in several eyebolts and double blocks that will accept the parrel tackles and the top rope tackle.
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Ah! That seems to be your M.O. with theoretical reconstructions, isn't it?
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I have never been able to rig a galleon and keep the stays perfectly straight, and even some museum models have bent stays. So, don't feel bad.
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What you could probably do is have the upper wales terminate somewhere forward of the sternpost. Then, you would be able to complete the planking without using drop planks. Check out this example:
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Ha!! My goal is to help, always. I need more knowledge, though. At least enough so that my answers can be more than one line. Hey, that might be a good job for you!
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The images with the topsails and topgallants out looks to be accurate. You could model that and have the courses furled.
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This is the painted and glued in forecastle deck: One thing that really bothered me up to this point was that no one in their depictions of the Mayflower showed just how old and beat the ship was. So, i decided to weather the entire exterior of the hull, as well as the interior bulkheads. I admit it looks much better.
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You could probably turn new yards out of wood relatively easily.
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Also, there are multiple tutorials on this site regarding how to furl square sails. You will want to use silkspan for all the sails, as it looks more in scale and is significantly easier to furl.
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- Le Soleil Royal
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If he has rigged the yards correctly, it should be relatively easy to lower them. Or so the theory goes. Personally, i think it would be worth the effort to go back and lower the topgallants.
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- Le Soleil Royal
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This is the fore knighthead and rigged halyard block glued onto the deck. The block and halyard tackle will go up through a hole in the forecastle deck. I can be even more sure the halyard will not foul on the mainstay because the mainstay bypasses the foremast on the starboard side and goes around the bowsprit.
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Because it's the media. They always suck. This is a real ROV photo of the galleon:
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Personally, the legal battle is interesting too. I think the treasure on the ship should stay at the bottom of the sea along with the 600 men who died with it. Every shipwreck is also a mass grave, and should be treated like one. I find it disgusting that all anyone cares about is who the loot belongs to. Not even the historical and research value is considered. I also can't wait for them to find the Flor de la Mar, a Portuguese carrack loaded with billions of dollars of treasure that lies off the coast of Malaysia.
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When a sail is furled, all the associated rigging stays on the sail.
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- Le Soleil Royal
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I say keep the courses furled, fly the topsails, and partially unfurl the topgallants. That would look really cool. Or perhaps the other way around, with courses partially furled, topsails flown, and topgallants furled.
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This is the finished fore knighthead and halyard block, with the rigging. The reason for the brass pin is that if this comes loose at any point, there's no way to go in and fix it.
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This is a replica of a Dutch galleon, i believe the Halve Maen.
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