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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    Raisley It depends on the year. 100 gun ships, including Victory, carried 42 pounders at one time. She had 32 pounders 9 1/2' long available in 1778 and finally brought on board in 1779 to replace 42 pounders (Caruana The History of English Sea Ordinance Vol 11, page 234) 24 pounders only came in three lengths, 10, 9 1/2, and 9 feet. At the time of Trafalgar I believe Victory carried long 24s thus 10 feet long, on the middle deck (Lavery Ships of the Line) and short twelve pounders on the upper gun deck and QD (8 1/2 feet). She had two medium length (between 9 feet and 10 feet) 12 pounders on her forecastle as well as two 68 pounder carronades (Lavery Ships of the Line) Hope this is of some help. Allan
  2. allanyed
    Johnny, As mentioned, pick a project or two that you are considering and post these and you will get lots of suggestions based on experience from the members here. Whatever you do, do not think too big for a start. Consider your tool crib as well as what books to buy. We all have budgets within which we have to live, so think about tools that you have and in which you would be willing to invest as well as a budget for materials and books. Allan
  3. allanyed
    Where do the horses go? From photos of Ernestina in the Library of Congress there appears to be a horse about 18" forward of the main mast, and smaller horse about 18" forward of the foremast. Chappelle describes three horses, one for the main sheet, one for the foresheet, and one for the jib. I THINK the two in the photo I have are for the jib (forward of the foremast), for the fore sheet, (forward of the main mast) but I have no idea where the main sheet horse would go if there indeed was one. Any clues from more learned schooner modelers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Allan
  4. allanyed
    I do not like to suggest that anyone spend any amount of money, but if you don't mind you can get the booklet on sail making by David Antscherl available from SeaWatch books for $8. There are also some great videos on the net that show many of the steps as well. No need to go to a store, I bought all the materials required on the net and had it in a couple days. Allan
  5. allanyed
    Mark, It is very hard to find cloth sails on a model, especially with sewn hems and seams, that look close to scale unless building at perhaps 1:12 or larger. If you are happy with the look, good for you, but if not, maybe try a different material such as silk span and then you can forget sewing altogether. You can make the sails any color you want, including an old grayish canvas, you can add the reinforcement pieces, proper looking panel seams, they can be furled or not. There have been a number of discussions on sail making recently here at MSW using materials other than cloth. Do a search on silkspan and you will get some thoughts from a number of other members. Great looking sails can make an otherwise OK model look stunning. Poorly made, out of scale sails can make a stunning model look, well, not so nice. Happy New Year!! Allan
  6. allanyed
    Dave, Yes a big ask, but an interesting idea. Don't know of any blogs, but there are books that show all the details one could ask for on rigging, from rope making to sail making with drawings and photos Drawings are actually sometimes are better in explaining than photos, and both can be found in some books. One example is Lees Masting and Rigging which starts with masts, then yards, then standing rigging, then running rigging with a hundreds of drawings and dozens of photos. It is period specific though, (1625-1860) Chapelle gives a lot of detail on schooners, Anderson on 17th century ships ares two more examples. Antscherl gives a ton of details on rigging and sail making but again is a bit period specific although the techniques can be applied to many ships and other years. If there is a blog out there, this would be interesting to follow. Allan
  7. allanyed
    Tom, Good kits are not cheap so you may be better off asking here at MSW which kits have the best materials and which are closest to being historically accurate. Some kits offer neither. Start a build log once you begin and you will likely get more and better help from members here than most books which tend to be more appropriate for scratch building and even for kit bashing as mentioned by Roger. You mention you are a newbie, so is this your first wooden ship model? If it is, I would urge you to start with something small and not as complex as most of the 17th century kits available. Also, as a newbie, be sure to read the forum here at MSW on pirated kits before you make your purchase so you do not get stuck with one of these illegal knockoffs. Allan
  8. allanyed
    Thanks Keith! I did leave a small section of the hull and deck exposed to show the framing. Hate to have done all the work and then cover it totally never to be seen again. Then again, many here, myself included, have done fully framed models of old warships with all decks, powder rooms, magazines, wells, etc. and they are there only for posterity and self satisfaction. I suppose we are a strange breed at times. Allan
  9. allanyed
    I agree with Wayne, but if you know what model you want to start with, be it scratch or kit, POB or POF, rigged or unrigged, and approximate year of the vessel, that would narrow down the list to something a lot more affordable. Allan
  10. allanyed
    Try different methods with some scrap material and see what works best for you. Perhaps this type of CA is a good way to go for you, but gap glue is just a thick slow cure CA. As it is a slow cure, it is just as easy to go with PVA. Gaps on a first layer of planking, if tiny are no issue. If large, mix a little saw dust with the PVA, fill the gap, let cure for a few minutes and sand. Easy, and none of the toxic fumes and stinging eyes. Allan
  11. allanyed
    Thanks Bob, we all get sucked into this kind of thing now and then. Personally, I have probably been taken in more often than most. Stuff happens to all of us. Merry Christmas.
  12. allanyed
    Jon, If they were closer I'd go see Ross and Andy and ask how much they would want for that anchor!!! Thank you very much for this information. What a Christmas gift that anchor would make!!! Then again, the HOA here might frown on such a large decoration in the yard, not to mention the woman in the next room that has put up with most of my nonsense these past 51 years. Allan
  13. allanyed
    I bought the drill bit set with pin vice loss leader that Bob Cleek recommended. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY!!!! The only good thing about the set is the box and even that has issues as the tubes have covers on each end and several of the ends that are in holes in the bottom of the box stick so when you pull the tube out, the bits fall out, thankfully into the box. These bitts are so bad I have had trouble drilling through hard wood with the ones I have tried, forget about copper or brass. Maybe I got a bad set, but these are the worst I have ever tried to use. The pin vice is terrible as it will not hold the smallest bits tightly. You get what you pay for most of the time, but this time I did not even get that much. Back to HSS jobber bits. Allan
  14. allanyed
    Couple update photos. The spiral is holly strip that was soaked in water for five minutes then wound round the mast and clamped to keep it from unwinding. 45 minutes later it was dry and holding it's shape. Once dry, I cut rings with an overlap and beveled opposing sides on each end of the rings. PVA and a clip to hold in place for a few minutes and they were then sanded to get off any fuzz and placed on the mast. These need to go on before the boom rest is glued in place. Yes, I forgot and had to break off the ring and make a new one. Thought I would have learned by now...... The top has a few eyes to be secured in place, otherwise, pretty much done. Allan
  15. allanyed
    Keith, I took the shape from one of the drawings of Ernestina/Effie that I downloaded from the Library of Congress. She had a bank anchor when first in service, then went to an iron stock anchor and curved arms at a later date as can be seen in "modern" photos of her before she was stripped for her current rebuild. The drawing from the LOC plus a drawing on page 316 in the American Fishing Schooners by Chapelle gave me what I needed for a fair representation of the anchor for the late 1800s when she was launched to fish the Grand Banks. I think it would still be appropriate to have an iron stock anchor for later times, but along with the anchor, the deck layout was changed dramatically for her later roles so there would be a lot more than changing just the anchor style. Druxey, yes, 7 years since I worked on her. I am sure I would have gotten back to her at some point, but when the ship yard that ordered the BoothBay 65 model wanted to buy this model as well I was very very happy. That yard is the one currently rebuilding Ernestina thus their interest in having a model of her. Schooners are a nice diversion from 17th and 18th century projects, but I will likely be going back to that era when this model is shipped. Hope to have this one done in the next two to three months as masts are now under construction. Allan
  16. allanyed
    TFB, I will be curious to see how this works out and what type of wood you use if you actually can make these to scale. Assuming the lines are about 1" diameter, or smaller, this would be 0.004" diameter hole in the block at your scale. I do not believe you can find drill bits that small. The smallest I have ever read about are 0.006 (#97) and not generally available. The smallest most common available is #80 (0.0135) which is more than triple the diameter that you would need in order to be be close to scale. Good luck. Allan
  17. allanyed
    What Richard describes is true, but I do the same thing without the CA. Less stink, less eye irritation, less hassle in general. Takes an extra half a minute waiting for the glue to start curing before letting go, then setting it aside and go to something else for a few minutes. Ship modeling from me is not about saving a few minutes here and there. If time is not on your side, CA might be the answer, but keep in mind the risks outlined above. Allan
  18. allanyed
    A little project for the Effie
  19. allanyed
    Also, if the blocks are wood, they would be internally stropped, further complicating things at this scale. After a quick look in their books I do not see that either McNarry or McCaffery go into these kinds of blocks. They could even have been made of metal by the time this vessel was underway rather than wood. Allan
  20. allanyed
    Hi Dave Looking at the drawings of Bounty on the RMG collections site, it appears that the keel was 12" wide (5mm at 1:60) ) so building it up makes some sense, or make a new keel the proper dimension. If building it up, it might actually be easier to make the rabbet by tapering the top edge of the plank to match the angle of the frames as you go. Allan
  21. allanyed
    Eastern PA ain't too bad Joe. Our oldest lives in Gilbertsville, not far from Valley Forge. Beautiful countryside! Anxious to see your rigging and sails. There have been a lot of posts lately on making sails. Unfortunately, many insist on using cloth and sewing which is impossible to keep in scale, taking away from an otherwise nice build. Allan
  22. allanyed
    Welcome Charlie!!! Glad to have you aboard. Some great models around your area, including at the small museum at the US Merchant Marine Academy in Kings Point and the NY Yacht Club. I have not been to the academy for quite some time (missed our reunion last year) but once the Covid is a distant memory, there are/were some great things there including the double wheel from Connie. If memory serves there was at least one model of America at the NYYC. Allan
  23. allanyed
    Kathy, Volume II, pages 24-30 of The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl gives step by step instructions on the paint, brushes, and technique for even the most intricate of designs. Worth the cost of the book just for this information. Keep in mind there are acrylics, and there are acrylics. Artist tubed acrylics are the best way to go when compared to the little bottles of craft paints. Allan
  24. allanyed
    Now the topper would be if you are from Western PA and a Steeler fan!!! Go Stillers...... (I had the good fortune to have grown up in Pittsburgh) Allan
  25. allanyed
    Dave, What ship are you building and what is the scale? Thanks Allan

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