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Hi Gary, Are the dry transfer letters peel and stick type decals? Any issues with it peeling off or do you give a clear top coat or some such to avoid any peeling down the road? Thanks! Allan

Thistle, how do you dissolve the glue once cured, acetone? In reading up on this, it seems there is need for an accelerator and the cure time is two hours. Is this your experience? Thank you! Allan

Hi John, If the sheer is normal and the rounding normal, you should be able to hold the section of plank down with your finger for a minute, or less, and it will hold. I assume you glued the false deck in place first. Both white and yellow (carpenter's or wood glue) are PVAs. The yellow polyvinyl acetate has a higher instant tack and does not like to be moved once the pieces are joined, a plus for us, I think. Don't know what scale you are working with, but keep in mind that the planks should be no more than 25 feet to 30 feet long so about 3 3/4" at 1:98 and 7 1/2" at 1/48. You can always add a few weight pieces, but be sure there is something between the weights and the wood. I got a half dozen chunks of steel of various sizes from a scrap bin at a local machine shop years ago that gave them to me for free as they were going into the scrap bin anyway. Allan

Kevin, I am enjoying your project and love your attitude about getting it right and your perseverance! BUT, I still think you could have found a small fruit tree or similar that you could have cut a small vee branch for the vee at the bow 😀 Allan

If you are going to paint it anyway, consider polystyrene sheeting which is very easy to cut with a stiff razor or scalpel. If you prefer to stay with wood, Vaddoc has good advice, use a close grained wood like castello or boxwood. Allan

Woodrat MSW is of course the best site of its type, bar none, and now you have fortified my thoughts on how great this site is with the immensely diverse subject matter we get to see here. Good for you on your choice. Allan

Per, I am sure many of us are looking forward to your build log progress Per, especially as you will have limited amounts of information to work with. Are there Danish governmental or private archives that may have more details? I have found that archival facilities in the US and UK have been treasure troves of information so there may be some help in that type of place in Denmark as well. Allan

Hi Daniel, Bem-vindo ao nosso grupo Allan

Welcome David, In a few words, a building board to hold the keel secure and perfectly vertical, and at least two decent quality builder squares to be sure the bulkheads are properly aligned horizontally and vertically when gluing to the keel. I print and glue a frame guide and centerline on the building board as well. I am sure if you post in the building and framing forum you will get great advice in response to your question. Again, welcome to MSW Allan

Patrick, Thank you for your introduction. Big welcome to you here at MSW. Does the Bohusian have any special meaning for you or is it like most us when we often choose because we like the way a particular vessel looks? Allan

I am obviously very late to the game, but I spent a few hours on your build log yesterday as we were rained in. The praise you have received from so many of our artists out there is well deserved. Wish I could think of new words to add to the list of compliments. Learned some new tricks from your build so I got an added bonus!! Thanks for sharing your work!! Allan

While glue dries on the hull planking strakes, I worked on the deck safety rail stanchions. The stanchions have a base plate which is screwed to the cap rail, but even at this relatively large scale, I did not like the idea of making separate base plates, drilling four holes and trying to replicate four tiny screws to secure the plate and stanchion to the cap rail. I opted to turn the stanchions and provide the base plate in this manner. In addition I left a stub that will go through the rail. To add some security, I glued spacer blocks between the frames, spirketting and hull planking in the appropriate places. (second photo) The stub of the stanchion will pass through the rail into the filler blocks and I am sure will be very secure with a bit of epoxy glue. Drilling the hole in the stanchions would be had me stumped a year ago, but having seen a "how to" on one of the other build logs it was actually quite easy. First up was make the stanchion. It was then secured in a vise on my bench top drill press. I used a small carving burr, as was done when drilling holes in the wheel rim, to create a tiny pilot hole in the center of the stanchion and another at the top. The burr has a stiff shank and does not wonder on a small curved surface like a drill bit would. I left the piece in the vise and switched out to a drill bit and drilled the holes through. Switching to the drill bit while the piece was still in the vise assured that the pilot holes were still dead center at the top. Pics below. Allan

Henry, the deck plan shows a slop room just aft of the marine clothing room. You may be right, one was for the sailors, one for the marines, but if that's the case, why not call it a marine slop room? So many questions, so little time. Allan

Jim I looked at some drawings of the orlop decks at the NMM Collections site and the marine clothing room is clearly shown on Inflexible, 1780. While it was a 64, the cabin layout is similar to what you show. I could not find a contemporary orlop drawing of a 50 but I am sure they are in their archives somewhere. Alas, I found nothing on what was inside the cabin. With the bright red seemingly the uniform of the day for the marines, I suspect this was basically a wardrobe type room, an origin or modern walk in closets, to keep things neat and orderly and away from the daily grunge that might be encountered if kept elsewhere and ruin the scarlet look. Perhaps, Victory has such a space and has been restored to what it looked like back in the day. Might be photos out there if that is the case. Allan

JM, You can try to simulate treenails, but at a scale of 1:75 and assumption of 1 or even 1 1/2" diameter these will only be 0.013 or 0.02" diameter. You can make them this small if you use bamboo and a drawplate, but even so, they may appear to give the hull the measles especially if they provided walnut planking which is darker than bamboo. The smallest hole on a Byrnes draw plate, which is a GREAT piece to use, only goes to 0.016. It is not so easy to make these that small even with bamboo. Just one opinion here, but I would forget treenailing at this scale. Allan

Thanks Mark! Thanks to you as well Grant - For about $50 including shipping, this looks like a great option. Allan

These are REALLY nice. I love that there are SOOOO many subjects being modeled, from canoes to First Rate ships of war here at MSW. Allan

Thanks Mark, I just did a quick search and there are two within an hour of me. Think I'll take a ride to see if they will do such small parts at a reasonable price. Allan

Thanks to both Kurt and Bruce! As this is brass (many piece of which will be silver soldered) I will give them a good cleaning with a pickling solution first so I hope for the best. Thanks again gentlemen. Allan

The interior of the main deck house is about 75% complete, lacking the bulkheads, toilet, sink, hand rails and bench cushions. I want to have a chrome finish on the rails, but not sure of a convenient way to do this. I'm going to test some brass material with Duplicolor and/or Rustoleum chrome spray finish, but if anyone has a suggestion I am all ears! Allan

Mark, if you have not already built the midship boats, let us know. Information on appropriate type and sizes is available and can be shared. Allan

Joe, I am thoroughly enjoying your build. Not something I ever thought to build myself, but your log has me thinking about the future 😀 Allan

Mark, If you don't mind I am curious as to which ship's boats are called for in your Sergal kit. Thanks! Allan

Mark, Keep in mind that Victory would have had a number of configurations depending on the year. According to W.E. May in Boats of Men of War first rates carried six or even seven boats and the type and size of boats varied between the time she was launched in 1765 and Trafalgar. The number, size, and shape would affect how they were stowed. It is possible that the quarter davits would come into play as well as stowage midships. Lavery discusses stowage at length in The Arming and Fitting of British Ships of War and gives a number of possibilities, but no solid conclusions so there may be no exact answer from contemporary sources. Allan

Framing is up, a couple stakes, including the garboard strakes. Mast steps are a simple affair but test mast stubs for fore and main were made to be sure the 2 degree lean aft did not cause the mast to collide with a deck frame. Of course this happened, so the deck frames around the masts will go to both sides and partners made. With the tilt of the hull a continual use of squares on the building board and a level has made it relatively easy to be sure the top of the frames are exactly the same height port and starboard. The height of the bulwarks varies between the cap rail and top of the deck clamps from bow to stern going from 19 inches down to just under 17 inches, so it was imperative that all was sitting properly before measuring from the base to the point on each frame where the clamp rests. Allan