allanyed
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Painting a Waterline
allanyed replied to mikiek's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Grant Everyone has their own way, but I would do the colors separately. The white strip that is between the black and red it is key. I have used pinstriping tape you can get from any auto parts store or on-line. It will give a perfect line top and bottom. After it is on, the entire hull can be hit with five or six coats of clear which will soften the edge of the striping tape as it does have a slight thickness and would be noticeable on close inspection. The photo below has a relatively wide tape, but various widths are available. (The finish on the model in the photo is way to shiny IMHO, but that is what the buyer requested.) Egg shell/semi-gloss finish would probably be more appropriate. If you opt not to use tape and just go with paint, be sure to seal the masking tape that you use to give the straight edge with a couple coats of clear. It will minimize any paint bleeding under the tape. Allan
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Tom According to Lees Masting and Rigging (page 42) the sheer pole was to prevent twisting of the shrouds and were commonly found in the 19th century. He does not say whether they were used or not earlier so it may be appropriate for Leopard. He does say that they were made of 2 inch diameter iron rod. Allan
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I am searching for brass tube
allanyed replied to Fresh water sailor's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I am with Phil on using MC as a source whenever possible as they are usually MUCH less expensive than a hobby shop and have a much wider selection of sizes and materials. Allan -
Problems with HMS Fly
allanyed replied to shortgrass's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Shortgrass, Hope you don't mind but I can only address the distance between decks. Assuming you are building POB, I measured from the top of the gun deck beams to the top of the QD beams at the center line in a couple places and from the top of the GD beams to the Forecastle beams at the center line. They are marked on the drawing below. These are real world dimensions so you need to adjust for the scale to which you are building. I assume you have already done so, but if not, you can open and copy a high def image of this contemporary drawing of Fly 1776 on Wikipedia https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/84/FLY_1776_RMG_J7978.png Allan
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Hermie, What do you mean fast way is paper? Can you post a couple photos? Thanks Allan
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Hi Michel, Sorry for leading you astray on the Young America build log . I based my suggestions on your post describing a clipper ship of Baltimore of 1840/1860 rather than a schooner of 1780-1820. It sounds like you are referring to a Baltimore Clipper which were topsail schooners that came out very late in the 18th century and were used quite a lot during the War of 1812 and well beyond. Allan
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Bienvenue to MSW Piet de Mol. You can do a search on blocks on the rigging forum. There is a lot of information on blocks from various centuries and how to make them in the rigging forum. Allan
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Michel, I suggest studying the excellent build log here at MSW on the Young America clipper (1853) by Ed Tosti. Truss bracket pivots were used on the yards and he gives extremely detailed explanations and photos of how to make these. Better yet, you may want to consider purchasing his books on the Young America from Seawatch Bookswhich which provide all the drawings and explanations you will probably need. While it is not the same ship, it was built during the height of the clipper era and is likely to be the best source for details on rigging a clipper. Allan
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Caullking Planks
allanyed replied to shortgrass's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Dave, There was a lengthy discussion on caulking about a week or two ago. If you do a quick search at the top of the forum page it should come up with a LOT of choices offered. Allan -
Bonjour Michel/Mike :>) Per the post from Henry, if you could identify the ship you have in mind or at least size/type/year/nationality, details can be shared more easily and accurately. Allan
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Hello John, Welcome to MSW. Please consider starting a build log on your model, it will avail you to thousands of helpers here if you run into any other questions or problems. Looking at the photo you posted, I would go with a two, or even better, a three piece rail on each side, scarphed together. You can get various sheet wood at local hobby shops or on line, depending on the type of wood you want to use. CLOSE grained is best, such as pear or Castello and quite a few others you will see discussed in the Wood Discussion forum here. Allan
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The photos you posted are incredible. Thanks for sharing these. Allan
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Bruce, I don't know if the second sketch from Goodwin is correct or not, but it is consistent in the layout and I assume it is correct. Sorry, but I keep looking and still do not see any error in the rows 1 and 2 in the lower sketch. Note that this is the same pattern in the TFFM Swan class series for the upper deck. The three butt shift pattern does not form a straight diagonal of seams like the 4 butt shift, but the pattern that is shown does repeat along the length of the deck. And then things can get a little more difficult for the four outer most strakes if top and butt planking is used for strength to support the guns. Fun stuff. Allan
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Bruce, Not sure what you mean by a fail in the second sketch. Do you mean the butts are incorrectly spaced? Sorry, not sure I see this. Can you make a sketch to explain? Thanks!! Allan
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For me at least it would have been a little easier to decipher if the drawing carried over a few more beams and strakes as I have added on the sketch below. Allan
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I am with Druxey in not using grooves. They tend to be graves for errant frames if you want to place the frames first. I make a similar mold shaped to the inside of the frames, then glue tiny spacers to keep the frames in place. Holly is great for the frames as a minute soaking in water will allow them to be bent without splitting (95% of the time). Couple photos to give you a better idea of what I mean. Allan
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Hi Barry, A big welcome to MSW! As this is your first post, perhaps you could post an intro about yourself in the new members section as well. Have you checked the other Panart Victory build logs here on MSW? Again, a warm welcome to the fray. Allan
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Welcome aboard Dan. There are over 30K members here and probably as many opinions based on each one's personal experience. No wrong choice if it works for you, but each choice has limitations and consequences. My own take. Any CA glue such as Krazy glue has very limited used in wood working and there are better formulas to use so not needed. Carpenter's glue (yellow aliphatic such as Elmers and Titebond) is all around the best for wood. It is strong and cures relatively quickly. I never thought that speed should be a factor in a hobby, but that's just me. I am often looking for instant gratification, or so my dear wife keeps telling me, but not in all things, one being model building. Downside, it is not water proof. Upside, if there is a mistake, water or Ispropyl alcohol will loosen a part so can be fixed. Contact cement, never used it, but epoxy is a good thing to have handy when gluing/attaching metal and wood. While it takes time to cure, it is super strong. Sandpaper. Several grits including low numbers like 120 or lower for rough sanding, and fine paper such as 600 as you have for finish sanding. I urge you to start a build log which will have folks checking on your progress and will give you a chance to voice concerns and ask questions. Good luck with the build. Allan
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Rattlesnake vs syren both by model shipways
allanyed replied to Georgiabush's topic in Wood ship model kits
I second Mark's suggestion. There thousands of mentors, teachers, helpers here for you. Allan -
James, I am sure there are members that will help you on this one. Just wanted to say welcome to MSW. Allan
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PVA has always been my go to, but I used epoxy for metal to wood. I am not a fan of CA for wood joints, (but it is great in place of a suture on a cut finger :>) If you can I would cut the faces of the rabbet in the keel pieces before gluing it in place. It will be far easier getting the angles correct on both faces of the rabbet which are dynamic along the entire length. Allan
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Jeff, Great question and I bet there are several ways folks here have found that work for them. If you have a Dremel or similar drill, they are far easier to control. For the mast holes, you can make a guide out of scrap wood with the angle that you want to drill a pilot hole, then follow it up with your larger drill as the Dremel or such won't take more than about a 1/8" drill bit or perhaps a larger bit with a 1/8" shank. Pilot holes are always a good idea when the final diameter is to be up there in size. For the hawse holes, not so easy, but again, a Dremel type drill and pilot holes should help. Allan
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Panart Royal Caroline Rigging Help
allanyed replied to lesser160's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Alan, Trust me, we ALL can!! -
Panart Royal Caroline Rigging Help
allanyed replied to lesser160's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Alan, While the Petersson book is useful for a ship built circa 1785, as well as having some great detail work, it is may not always be appropriate for the Royal Caroline which was launched 35 years earlier. The best source IMHO is Lees' Masting and Rigging. Allan -
Panart Royal Caroline Rigging Help
allanyed replied to lesser160's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Lesser, Truss pendants superceded parrels on the lower yards in about 1760 so parrels were likely used on the lower yards of Royal Caroline (1750), possibly with three rows of trucks . Parrels with two rows of trucks were used on the topsail yards and topgallant yards up to about 1806. The mizen yard also used parrels with two rows of trucks until about 1773 when they were replaced with a truss parrel. Hope this is some help. Lees' Masting and Rigging has a lot of details on how the trucks are rigged along with the yards' jeers, halliards, and ties as appropriate for the era and ship size. Allan
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