allanyed
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Welcome aboard Dan. There are over 30K members here and probably as many opinions based on each one's personal experience. No wrong choice if it works for you, but each choice has limitations and consequences. My own take. Any CA glue such as Krazy glue has very limited used in wood working and there are better formulas to use so not needed. Carpenter's glue (yellow aliphatic such as Elmers and Titebond) is all around the best for wood. It is strong and cures relatively quickly. I never thought that speed should be a factor in a hobby, but that's just me. I am often looking for instant gratification, or so my dear wife keeps telling me, but not in all things, one being model building. Downside, it is not water proof. Upside, if there is a mistake, water or Ispropyl alcohol will loosen a part so can be fixed. Contact cement, never used it, but epoxy is a good thing to have handy when gluing/attaching metal and wood. While it takes time to cure, it is super strong. Sandpaper. Several grits including low numbers like 120 or lower for rough sanding, and fine paper such as 600 as you have for finish sanding. I urge you to start a build log which will have folks checking on your progress and will give you a chance to voice concerns and ask questions. Good luck with the build. Allan
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Rattlesnake vs syren both by model shipways
allanyed replied to Georgiabush's topic in Wood ship model kits
I second Mark's suggestion. There thousands of mentors, teachers, helpers here for you. Allan -
James, I am sure there are members that will help you on this one. Just wanted to say welcome to MSW. Allan
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PVA has always been my go to, but I used epoxy for metal to wood. I am not a fan of CA for wood joints, (but it is great in place of a suture on a cut finger :>) If you can I would cut the faces of the rabbet in the keel pieces before gluing it in place. It will be far easier getting the angles correct on both faces of the rabbet which are dynamic along the entire length. Allan
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Jeff, Great question and I bet there are several ways folks here have found that work for them. If you have a Dremel or similar drill, they are far easier to control. For the mast holes, you can make a guide out of scrap wood with the angle that you want to drill a pilot hole, then follow it up with your larger drill as the Dremel or such won't take more than about a 1/8" drill bit or perhaps a larger bit with a 1/8" shank. Pilot holes are always a good idea when the final diameter is to be up there in size. For the hawse holes, not so easy, but again, a Dremel type drill and pilot holes should help. Allan
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Panart Royal Caroline Rigging Help
allanyed replied to lesser160's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Alan, Trust me, we ALL can!! -
Panart Royal Caroline Rigging Help
allanyed replied to lesser160's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Alan, While the Petersson book is useful for a ship built circa 1785, as well as having some great detail work, it is may not always be appropriate for the Royal Caroline which was launched 35 years earlier. The best source IMHO is Lees' Masting and Rigging. Allan -
Panart Royal Caroline Rigging Help
allanyed replied to lesser160's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Lesser, Truss pendants superceded parrels on the lower yards in about 1760 so parrels were likely used on the lower yards of Royal Caroline (1750), possibly with three rows of trucks . Parrels with two rows of trucks were used on the topsail yards and topgallant yards up to about 1806. The mizen yard also used parrels with two rows of trucks until about 1773 when they were replaced with a truss parrel. Hope this is some help. Lees' Masting and Rigging has a lot of details on how the trucks are rigged along with the yards' jeers, halliards, and ties as appropriate for the era and ship size. Allan -
Mike I built the Victory in 1978-80, but as I could not afford any kind of kit at that time, I bought only the plans from one of the kit manufacturers, (might have been Mantua but I don't remember) Those plans and a used copy of the Anatomy of Nelson's Ships by Longridge got me started into scratch building. I bought plywood for bulkheads, and other woods for the rest of the model, including poplar and maple from the local lumber yards and cutoffs from a local cabinet making shop. I had a cheap table saw for power tools, everything else was files, chisels, blades, hand saws and sand paper. Just one alternative to a kit that some might want to consider. Allan
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Timerheads on the Smuggler
allanyed replied to GSege's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The simple sketch below may be easier to understand than a verbal description. Both POF and POB are shown. Allan
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Hi Wefalck, You may be correct about sources of information being from Sweden, but in the book's introduction Petersson explains at some length that his source of information is from a contemporary model of the British ship Melampus in the Bristol Industrial Museum in England. He also credits guidance from Lees' work, the NRG and a few others but for some reason makes no mention of, the Stockholm Maritime Museum as a source of help or information. Allan
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David The rigging of the stays varied over the years. Abridged description from Lees' Masting and Rigging English Ships of War ---- Deadeyes were used up to about 1690 rather than any type of heart. Closed hearts came into use about 1690 followed by the use of open hearts for the forestay from 1773 on. From 1840, some ships used thimbles in place of the hearts, but this was not general practice. The rigging of the hearts changed as well depending on which stay, ship, and year. If the ship had open hearts, according to Lees on page 169, ……This type of heart was used on the fore stay and fore preventer stay collars to allow the collar to go round the bow sprit, leaving room for the jibboom, which jives with the picture you posted from Petersson.. Note that this does not apply to the main stay. I could not find any snaking between the stays and preventer stays in Petersson's book. While this was common practice during war time in the 18th century and into the 19th century, it was not always used, so inclusion is up to the builder, but makes a nice touch if appropriate for a ship built and used during any of the war years. As England was at war with France from 1793 to 1815, the snaking would be appropriate if you are referring to your build of Diana 1794.. Allan
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Michael, I checked photos of contemporary models at Preble Hall and none of them have caulking between planks on the hull. That is not to say there are none there, but I did not find any in my collection of photos. These models are at 1:64 or 1:48 scale. What scale are you working with? If you are at 1:98 or thereabouts, IMHO there is no need to show caulking, especially if you have a dark grainy wood like walnut. Can you post some photos of the models that you found that have caulked hull planks, I am really curious to see what these models look like? Maybe something to consider for my own future projects :>) As to methods of caulking, I prefer black tissue paper, but as you do not want to go that route, Mark's comment is spot on, soft pencil or black marker. If using a marker, as thin as the second layer of planking normally is on the kits, be careful the ink does not wick into the wood and/or get over the edge. Test pieces as Mark suggests is always a good idea. Allan
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For those who own this book, is there anything included that is not covered in the tutorials here at MSW? Thanks Allan
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My wife ordered a copy of this book for my birthday and I am VERY happy to own a copy. I second the comments by Mark in his March 31st post above. In addition to the detailed information Richard Endsor has included, there are photos of a model that Phillip Reed built based on the drawings and scantlings in the book, so know that there is sufficient information to build an accurate model of Tyger, Mourdant, or perhaps other similar fourth rates in the time period covered. Allan
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Welcome aboard Ernie. Very nice intro to who you are, and appreciated. Sounds like you may be able to help a few folks here with a sideline in airplane habits. Know that you will have a lot of help available to you on your ship project. Allan
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Bienvenue dans notre groupe amical PJ. Bonne chance avec votre projet. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Damon!! Which frigate are you looking to build and is it a scratch build or a kit? Kit models do often use a double set of planking over bulkheads in place of frames. British vessels were built with a single layer of planking on the outside of frames, and of various thicknesses with the wales being the thickest. They were also planked on the inside and these strakes also varied in thickness including thick strakes for the deck clamps and other thicknesses at various points inside the hull. In general regarding planking, be it a single layer as the ships were actually built or the outer layer of a double planked kit, please take a little time and read the planking tutorials here at MSW. There are many ways of planking that wind up with a look that is not at all realistic and take away from the look of the finished hull but the tutorials will help you get the planking done nicely and yield a look that is realistic. I would urge you to start a build log and as you come to each point in the build, you can get answers to your questions and some guidance to avoid unnecessary do-overs. Allan
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Bruce, We had similar issues at a client's factory making nail polish. A vending machine service tech came in one day and used silicone spray lubricant and it got into the air and in the nearby manufacturing area. When the polish was put on, it left fish eyes on the surface. Fortunately, this turned up in QA testing before the batches from that day were shipped and disaster with end users averted. No silicone sprays were ever allowed in the factory after that. If a model is being spray painted, the same thing can occur, so be diligent about having silicone spray products in the model building area. Allan
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CNC wood carving
allanyed replied to cafmodel's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
The carvings are indeed beautiful, and for those that do not enjoy carving it is a possible alternative. BUT, for me, it takes away one of the major challenges and joys of ship modeling. Allan -
Welcome to MSW Henry and Edward The product you posted sounds interesting, I hope there are members here with experience in using it. They claim it will extend the lifetime of the line, but from what I have been able to find I believe the brand is only a few years old so such claims may be ambiguous. If this is a silicone based material rather than wax it may be a good thing as silicone is generally associated with being resistant to ozone, UV light, aging, and extreme temperatures. What material is the rigging line you are planning on using, cotton, linen, poly? Allan
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I did finally get it to open, thanks Toni. Bob, Per Lees for 1670 up to 1711 on page 183 Add together the length of the keel, breadth of the ship and depth of the ship then divide the answer by 1.66. If the beam exceeds 27 feet then deduct from the total the amount that the beam is in excess of 27 feet: If the beam is less then 27 feet then add to the total the amount that the beam is short of 27 feet. From this I derived a length of the main mast formula when the beam is more than 27 feet. A =Length of KEEL, not gun deck B= Beam C = Depth Length of main mast = (A+B+C)/1.66-(B-27) as the beam is more than 27 feet for Litchfield 1695 (107.58+34.63+13.5)/1.66 -(34.63-27) = 86.17 feet. Using Danny's spread sheet , the length of the main mast is only 67 feet which is much too short for a fifty gun ship. I cannot figure out exactly what is wrong with the formula on the spread sheet, but I suspect, the 27 feet was deducted rather than the difference between the beam and 27 feet which in this case is 7.63 feet. If there are any math teachers or profs in our group and they spot an error in the way I presented the formula, please do not hesitate to offer a fix. Allan
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Well said!!! Would love to discuss with you over a cup of espresso and a croissant or baguette once the pandemic is over and we can get back to Paris. Allan
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Bob, I just tried to open it and have the same problem. It opens, but does not do anything. If I remember correctly, unless it was edited after I alerted Dan a year or two ago, there is one caution to take, I am pretty sure the data for 1670 to 1711 is incorrect. The formula in Lees is good to go, but not on this spread sheet. If I can get it to open, I will double check to see if it still a problem. Because the issue is in the very first calculation, using length of main mast to length, beam and depth of the ship, the error passes to every calculation that follows. Allan
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Ishmael, Welcome to MSW. It would be really nice if you would post an introduction with a little about yourself in the New Members section. For the rigging, there would likely be many different rope circumferences but 4 or 5 should be OK for the running and the same for the standing rigging. There is a chart that a member made for calculating line sizes for British warships, but it should be reasonably accurate for your whaler model. Go the search box and look for Danny Vadas rigging spread sheet. Allan
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