allanyed
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Just found your build log George and it has made for a fine half hour reading your log and studying the photos. Your choice of vessel is definitely a wonderful change. WELL DONE. Allan- 81 replies
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- egyptian
- byblos ship
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Degluing
allanyed replied to Zooker's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
IPA is a great way to go if you can find any these days. The boss took my supply to mix with aloe vera gel for some homemade hand sanitzer when that was in short supply. Water also works well for aliphatics. Acetone (nail polilsh remover) for CA. I could not find an ingredient list for DeGlue Goo, but the Material Safety Data sheet for De Glue Goo states "Inhalation: Threshhold limit value: 10 ppm Short term exposure: 15 ppm for 15 minutes Odor threshhold 1.0 ppm Prolonged inhalation of vapors can cause irritation to respiratory tract. Eyes: Will cause eye irritation - smarting and reddening of the eye" Allan -
Types of Scarphs
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Jaager, Wales with anchor stock or similar planking are not really all that difficult at our scales. The fun would be for the clamps on the UD and GD on this model as they are specified as tabled and scarphed hook and butt. THAT is not a fun prospect. I decided to forego the tabling on this model as these will be pretty much closed in and never be seen. Maybe on the next project. Allan -
I tried the Aubrey series a few times as well but had a hard to time gaining interest. I preferred the Thomas Kydd series and Alan Lewrie series. They are fun reads but not of much, if any, use for building a model. Allan
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Charles, If you would like to contact him, PM me and I will send you his email address. You will not find better chisels anywhere. Allan
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Types of Scarphs
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks guys, much appreciated. Jaager, the contracts are relatively detailed in their description of the frames so no issues there. I was only in a quandary regarding the various strakes, specifically the footwaling and GD clamp. The GD is in pieces as it has a clamp and riser. I looked again at the FC and as it is only 25 feet long, a single piece would likely be appropriate. Just as an FYI, there are 6 strakes of 15" wide footwaling at the wrongheads, with two that are 6" thick lying on the chocking of the floor head and middle futtock, then one 5" on each side, then one 4" on each side. Perhaps the center strakes would be scarphed as they are to reinforce the area of the joints of the frame. The devil is indeed in the details at times. Allan -
British warships, late 1600's. The contract for several 50 gun ships of the 1690s specify that the clamps of the gun deck and upper deck are to be "Scarphed Flemish Hooke and Butt" There is no mention of the type of scarphe for the QD, Forecastle or for the footwaling. Thicknesses and widths are given, but there is no mention of scarphs. Would there be some type of scarph, and if yes, what type? Thanks Allan
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Chuck, Jim and all you hard working mods, The problem with the new look is not the new look, but rather we seem to be mostly a bunch of past fifty/sixty/seventy year old folk that despise change more and more as we get older and older. Too set in our ways. From one oldie here, great work, these changes help keep the mind working a little harder. Keep up the great work everyone, change is good!!! Allan
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Mini Table Saw recommendations
allanyed replied to captainscott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Late in the game here, but If I ever need a new mini table saw there is no doubt I will go with a Byrnes saw based on so many recommendations here at MSW and my great experience with his thickness sander. In the meantime, I have 20 years or so with my Microlux saw and have no complaints at all. The only add on I purchased was the sliding fence micro adjustment unit that really zeros in on the cut width that I want. There is room to clamp on my own temporary table tops with specific guides when doing tricky work such as slotting slabs to make gratings as Bernard Frolich does them in the Art of Ship Modeling. In all the years I have had the unit I have never had an issue with the unit. Allan -
Charles, if you want to invest in a magnificent set of carving tools, I highly recommend those made by Mihail Kirsanov. I usually enjoy carving, but these chisels make carving and joinery work a true pleasure. Will there be a need for customized tools at times, I would guess this might be the case, depending on the situation, but these are probably 99% of what you would likely ever need. There are a number of members here that am sure will attest to the quality of this set of tools. Allan
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Welcome aboard!! I hope to visit Ireland and Scotland in the next year or two with a couple golf buddies and our wives. Gotta have something besides ship models to keep the mind (and body) in halfway decent shape. Allan
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No problem at all. Lady Eleanor probably had pretty much the same thickness planking for the entire hull with no raised strakes for wales &c, so smooth as you can on the first layer and same for the second. I would still take a look at the planking tutorials here at MSW to help you get a great looking second layer of planking down. Good luck with your build. Allan
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Jeff, are you doing a plank on frame or plank on bulkhead? I ask this only because you mention plank on frame and these "usually" would not have two layers of planks. If you are doing a model plank on bulkhead, the smoother and more fair the first layer, the better the second layer will lie as Gregory states. I don't know what ship you are building but keep in mind that the thickness of the second layer of planking should likely vary for the wales, lower planks and quick work up high. Allan
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Cabbie, Wow, this is a really subjective topic as we have all had different choices and experiences. Here is my take if I could only get three books with which to start. If you zoom in on something more specific regarding type of ship and shorter time span, there are many more books that can be suggested. The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lees Arming and Fitting English Ships of War 1600-1815 by Brian Lavery I can go on, but these are good starts without breaking the bank. Regarding such things as rates, https://www.rmg.co.uk/discover/explore/rated-navy-ships-17th-19th-centuries gives a pretty good description. Allan
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Charles, your options sound like a great way to go. Regarding the lead shot I have a couple models that go back 20 and 35 years when lead shot was about all that was available for bird shot. I applied several coatings of finish to the model, which included the "cannon balls" and they still look the same today as they did back then. Don't know if that will last another 10 years or 100 years, but so far so good. Allan
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David, VERY nice dory and great story as well. Allan
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If you have any bird hunter friends, ask if they have any number 9 shotgun shells. The pellets from one shell will last you a couple models, at least. (500 to 600 pellets in one 12 gage shell) These are a nice dark grey that is close to the look of steel cannon balls that have not yet rusted. I mentioned number 9 as the diameter is 0.08" (2.032mm) but if your model has more than one size cannon, there are common sizes of shot from 2.032 mm to 4.57mm. Allan
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Todd, Have you considered making your own "Charlie Noble" . Guess the name is not appropriate here as the term came into being having been named for Captain Charles Noble about 1850 and Swift is circa 1805. It can be as simple as using a dowel if it is round and with hand saw, scalpel and sand paper you can do a credible job including making an offset if appropriate. Brass tubing can also be used if you want to tackle soldering. As for the anchors, your choice as long as an arm and fluke are hooked onto the rail and rigged to stay in place. They would not be just left loose. On some small vessels they may have actually been secured on deck when underway. Some folks like leaving one just hanging down. I am sure some member will have better information on the anchors. Allan
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Kees, First time checking in on your build log. OH MY, what a beautiful job you are doing, and a wonderfully detailed log. I have often thought about a model of one of the freighters I sailed on in the 60s. Your log tells me it can be done and gives me hope!! Allan
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dolphin striker
allanyed replied to D J B's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Darrell, Hopefully the following will be of some help. Not sure which, if any, would be totally correct, but you get to pick your poison unless a member has something more concrete for a BC in the early 1800s. Allan
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Grem I am sure there are many ways, but for me for frames or bulkheads I have found that rotary wheels do a lot of work quickly, but gentle and slow works best so as to not go too far. Light touches to get the bevel, continually checking the fairing with a flexible strip. Once close to where I want to be, I have used a sanding mouse that reaches across a number of frames, (or a couple bulkheads for OB) to be sure the bevels are fair across them. Some final hand filing or sanding is best to avoid going too far. As with most things in our hobby, especially around power equipment, WEAR EYE PROTECTION as the disks do throw off grit and saw dust. Allan
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Ciao Rodolfo, It is nice to see such a young member join us at MSW :>) Allan
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dolphin striker
allanyed replied to D J B's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
DJ, Dolphin strikers went through an evolution of designs from 1794 when they were first introduced (at least in the British Navy) What year/nationality ship are you building? Allan -
To add sails or not? What is your preference?
allanyed replied to Bill97's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If you are going to consider making sails I suggest you get Volume IV of The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl. While the model in the book is at 1:48 scale, it will still have some very good pieces of information for you. That said, at the scale you are talking about, I totally agree with Chris. My opinion is that sails that are going to be out of scale will ruin the model and it will be difficult at best to make sails that are to scale at 1:96. If you look at photos of contemporary models at NMM, Preble Hall, and others museums, there are a lot of fully rigged models, but few if any with sails. These models were built by the best of the best but they did not add sails and do not look anything like a raft. (See an example below) Why they didn't add sails I have no idea, but it may be that they agreed with statements above about scale and hiding rigging. I have used high thread count (1000 or 1200 TPI) bedding material for sails on a few 1:48 scale schooner models, but only because the buyers required that the model had sails. The rigging on the schooners was sparse compared to a ship like the Cutty Sark, so the sails looked good in the end and did not really hide the rigging too much. Keep in mind these are not cheap materials. Silk Span is probably a better way to go than cloth so as to keep it closer to scale. Allan
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Barbara, Drawings of the Baltimore Clipper Badger shows wales and planking with widths of 8.5" I do not know how accurate the drawings are but can be found at www.researchgate.net I had not heard of them before nor do I know anything about them, but a quick look shows nice drawings with scantlings. I don't know where they found the original information or if it is completely accurate, but they are pretty detailed and may be worth a look. If you go to the site, just type Baltimore Clipper in the search box. Not high resolution drawings, but if you need those maybe you can contact them to get something higher resolution. Allan
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